Using ground probes in aquariums

[Brew12]

Excellent information! It shows that a properly functioning 20 Amp breaker will trip under 25 amps even if it is at -10C.

The older UL tests were done at 25C but otherwise it hasn't changed much.

 

[Scubado63]

Brew12, How did you connect your GFCI outlets to the Apex outlets, I assume it is the 4 empty outlet on the apex, but how did you wire them

 

[Brew12]

Brew12, How did you connect your GFCI outlets to the Apex outlets, I assume it is the 4 empty outlet on the apex, but how did you wire them

It is the 4 outlets with the plugs. The picture was taken early in my build. I cut the cords off of a few power strips, prepped the cut ends and wired them into the GFCI's. After that, I just plugged the cord into the outlet on the Apex. Very simple.

 

[Paul B]

What about metal in the water? Since the grounding probe is made of metal, surely that much leach into the water which cant be good for sps corals and sensitive invertebrates. Even if its stainless steel it will leach chrome, nickel and molybden or is it made out of titantium or any other reef safe metal?

So I guess this would be bad!

 

[Brew12]

So I guess this would be bad!

That is bad, your fish aren't wearing safety goggles!

 

[jasonrusso]

I'll never be without one again. That is exactly how my thread started.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/stay-away-from-hydor.263103/

 

[jasonrusso]

What about metal in the water? Since the grounding probe is made of metal, surely that much leach into the water which cant be good for sps corals and sensitive invertebrates. Even if its stainless steel it will leach chrome, nickel and molybden or is it made out of titantium or any other reef safe metal?

This is the one I bought. It's titanium.


Deep Blue Professional ADB12000 Ground Control Ti Probe for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGKCF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yg.dybQ5PMNP8

 

[Vidofner]

This is the one I bought. It's titanium.


Deep Blue Professional ADB12000 Ground Control Ti Probe for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DGKCF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yg.dybQ5PMNP8

Where does that round thing go? Is that outlet made of plastic except for the grounding part?

 

[jasonrusso]

I think it is just another option. You can bolt it to the outlet box, etc. You don't have to use both.

Yes, only the ground is metal.

 

[RobBaglieri]

Yes, you should still find out what is leaking. You probably have a piece of electrical equipment that is failing. It could be leaching metals like copper or other materials into your tank water. I would make it a priority to find it and remove it.
A great way to troubleshoot it is to buy a temporary GFCI plug like the one I am linking. Plug your components in one at a time until (with your ground probe installed) and see which one trips the GFCI.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/YELLOW-JACKET-GFCI-Portable-Plug-In-Adapter-Black-2762/204667709

this is the plug I temporarily have on my tank. I originally bought it to use with powertools outdoors when a GFCI outlet was not available. It works great. One drawback with this particular item, if there is a power outage, it must be manually reset once the power comes back on.

 

[spllbnd2]

Where does that round thing go? Is that outlet made of plastic except for the grounding part?

The round terminal would be used ONLY if you are using it with a metal box. When you use that in a plastic box it does nothing.

Think of it like this, metal screw that holds the outlet plate onto the box goes into... Plastic, no path to ground. While on a metal box that same screw that holds the outlet cover in place goes to? You guessed it, metal and onward to the ground screw that should be installed in the box per NEC.

This is know as a bonding jumper wire.

250.146 (A) Surface Mounted Box. Where the box is mounted on the surface, direct metal to metal contact between the device yoke and the box or a contact yoke or a self grounding receptacle shall be permitted to ground the receptacle to the box.

250.146 (B) Contact Devices or Yokes. Contact devices or yokes designed and listed as self-grounding shall be permitted in conjunction with the supporting screws to establish the grounding circuit between the device yoke and flush type boxes.




Cheers,
Alex

 

[jasonrusso]

The round terminal would be used ONLY if you are using it with a metal box. When you use that in a plastic box it does nothing.

Think of it like this, metal screw that holds the outlet plate onto the box goes into... Plastic, no path to ground. While on a metal box that same screw that holds the outlet cover in place goes to? You guessed it, metal and onward to the ground screw that should be installed in the box per NEC.

Cheers,
Alex

Absolutely correct! I was under the assumption that people would realize that plastic boxes aren't grounded, but I guess not everyone is familiar with home wiring.

 

[Vidofner]

Your outlets look alot different than european outlets. Ive never seen anything similar to what you call bonding jumping wire

 

[Brew12]

Your outlets look alot different than european outlets. Ive never seen anything similar to what you call bonding jumping wire

I have to give you Europeans credit, you have a much safer distribution and home wiring system than we use in the US.

 

[Vidofner]

I have to give you Europeans credit, you have a much safer distribution and home wiring system than we use in the US.

However, we need to deal with 220 volts instead of 110 when **** hit the fan. Ive done that. Was a scary feeling. My arm shook for like 10min after it.

 

[Brew12]

However, we need to deal with 220 volts instead of 110 when **** hit the fan. Ive done that. Was a scary feeling. My arm shook for like 10min after it.

Fair point, but we use 220V also. We only use it in more limited applications like for ovens, air conditioning and electric clothes dryers.

On thing that is often overlooked is that 50hz is less likely to cause ventricular fibrillation than 60hz is. I haven't seen a reason for that but Europeans are less likely to suffer heart failure during an electrical shock and have higher survival rates despite the higher voltage.

 

[Vidofner]

Fair point, but we use 220V also. We only use it in more limited applications like for ovens, air conditioning and electric clothes dryers.

On thing that is often overlooked is that 50hz is less likely to cause ventricular fibrillation than 60hz is. I haven't seen a reason for that but Europeans are less likely to suffer heart failure during an electrical shock and have higher survival rates despite the higher voltage.

Also you got alot higher ampere. I don't have much electrical knowledge but i think I've read that you got 15 A in your outlets and our normal outlets faults out at 10. I think they usually keep at 2.5

 

[jasonrusso]

Also you got alot higher ampere. I don't have much electrical knowledge but i think I've read that you got 15 A in your outlets and our normal outlets faults out at 10. I think they usually keep at 2.5

230v at 10a is 2300 watts. 120v at 15A is 1800 watts. Europe carries more power.

 

[Vidofner]

230v at 10a is 2300 watts. 120v at 15A is 1800 watts. Europe carries more power.

But 10A is when our fuses goes so we don't usually operate with 10A. What I've read it's normally 2,5A

 

[Brew12]

But 10A is when our fuses goes so we don't usually operate with 10A. What I've read it's normally 2,5A

From a safety perspective, your higher system voltage or lower trip point doesn't make much difference. The majority of electrical shocks occur from a live conductor to ground. In Europe, you have 2 legs that are both 110V to ground. In the US, we typically have 1 leg at 115V to ground with the other leg being grounded. Because of this, the voltage we would typically be shocked by are almost identical.
When 0.1 Amps for 2 seconds is considered a fatal exposure, it doesn't much matter if your fuses or breakers trip at 2.5A, 10A or 20A.