Using my RO/DI unit for drinking water/ice maker for my fridge

[FarmerTy]

Hello Reef2reef,

I need to be schooled on this subject. I have a 5-stage RO/DI unit with dual membranes and just bought a new fridge that uses its own filter. I want to bypass this and just use water from my RO/DI unit.

What is the best way to accomplish this? Currently, I only turn on my RO/DI unit to make water and when the float valve in the ATO container hits the top, it shuts off the unit and then I manually turn off the water supply to the RO/DI unit.

How can I plug into my current setup to send RO water to my fridge. The manual says it will require a PSI of 20-40 minimum from the RO supply line. I know my unit runs at about 80 PSI normally but I assume my output after the membrane will be much less. I'll test it and see what PSI it is at and update.

I will now have to leave the water supply open at all times which is fine as a have a shutoff for my ATO tank specifically. Anybody see any other issues with having the water supply always on? It's not going to try to make water when not needed, right? I'd assume if the tank in the fridge is full and my shutoff to my ATO tank is closed, then it wouldn't run at all.

Lastly, just want to make sure that this won't exhaust my RO/DI unit quicker than normal. I know the initial blast of water is the dirtiest, which is why I bypass the initial bit of water until the TDS drops to about 14 and then I open the line to the DI chamber to make water for the tank. Since I'm feeding the fridge just RO water, this shouldn't affect my usage of DI resin I'm assuming but please correct me if I'm wrong.

Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure I'm assuming all the right things. Thanks!

-Ty

 

[FarmerTy]

 

[FarmerTy]

 

[AZDesertRat]

Add a drinking water kit for $60 and a 1/4" check valve to isolate the stored RO water from the DI.

Follow this diagram for hooking it all up, note the placement of the check valve so DI is made directly from the RO membrane and not from the pressure tank which suffers from TDS creep.
http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

You can pick up the drinking water kit from purelyh2o for $60 and a check valve at any hardware store.

 

[FarmerTy]

Add a drinking water kit for $60 and a 1/4" check valve to isolate the stored RO water from the DI.

Follow this diagram for hooking it all up, note the placement of the check valve so DI is made directly from the RO membrane and not from the pressure tank which suffers from TDS creep.
http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

You can pick up the drinking water kit from purelyh2o for $60 and a check valve at any hardware store.

I was hoping you would answer! Thanks for the guidance AZdesertRat! [emoji106]

 

[Waters]

Why do you want to bypass the filter system that comes with your fridge? Don't know about your model buy most fridge filters do a pretty decent job. They have to be cheaper than the media used by the RO/DI unit (as long as you buy the generic filters which are much cheaper than the name brands).

 

[FarmerTy]

Why do you want to bypass the filter system that comes with your fridge? Don't know about your model buy most fridge filters do a pretty decent job. They have to be cheaper than the media used by the RO/DI unit (as long as you buy the generic filters which are much cheaper than the name brands).

I just figured that I have an RO system that makes cleaner water than a little carbon filter my fridge manufacturer sells me so I might as well use it.

I replace all my filters in my RO unit every 6 months anyways so I don't see any additional reason not to do this.

I'm all ears to logic and common sense though.

 

[Jeremiah Otterbein]

We do it too. A tee and a couple of valves to bypass the di filters. Happy wife, happy reefer.

 

[AZDesertRat]

I did the same on my fridge myself. Love the RO water in the door and the clear ice cubes it makes! The standard refrigerator filters are a simple taste and odor filter and do nothing for the 560-850+ TDS in my tap water.
The refrigerator came with a little orange cap or plug for just this purpose.


I see the drinking water kit I referred to has gone up to $70 but thats still a good value:
http://purelyh2o.com/store/ro-di-system-add-on-kit/33-drinking-water-add-on.html
http://purelyh2o.com/store/fittings/204-quick-connect-check-valve-1-4od.html

 

[FarmerTy]

I did the same on my fridge myself. Love the RO water in the door and the clear ice cubes it makes! The standard refrigerator filters are a simple taste and odor filter and do nothing for the 560-850+ TDS in my tap water.
The refrigerator came with a little orange cap or plug for just this purpose.


I see the drinking water kit I referred to has gone up to $70 but thats still a good value:
http://purelyh2o.com/store/ro-di-system-add-on-kit/33-drinking-water-add-on.html
http://purelyh2o.com/store/fittings/204-quick-connect-check-valve-1-4od.html

Just out of curiosity and for sheer knowledge, why is the tank needed AZDesertRat? Why wouldn't just a couple of T's and a shutoff valve before the DI not a good idea?

 

[AZDesertRat]

The tank is needed for the pressure and volume needed to operate the refrigerator faucet and icemaker. A RO membrane makes water very slowly, a few ounces a minute and at basically atmospheric or 0 psi when it comes out. By filling the bladder (pressure) tank with 3-5 gallons of RO water when the solenoid valve in the fridge opens to fill the icemaker tray or faucet you have instant pressure and sufficient volume to meet the demand before the RO kicks back on again to refill the bladder tank.

 

[FarmerTy]

The tank is needed for the pressure and volume needed to operate the refrigerator faucet and icemaker. A RO membrane makes water very slowly, a few ounces a minute and at basically atmospheric or 0 psi when it comes out. By filling the bladder (pressure) tank with 3-5 gallons of RO water when the solenoid valve in the fridge opens to fill the icemaker tray or faucet you have instant pressure and sufficient volume to meet the demand before the RO kicks back on again to refill the bladder tank.

Thank you! I wish I could download your brain one day regarding everything RO/DI! You're the man! Thanks for educating me!

 

[markak]

Just my 2$ (just realized my computer doesn't have a cents symbol) anyway I had a doctor tell me drinking just R/o water was not good for you.

 

[FarmerTy]

Just my 2$ (just realized my computer doesn't have a cents symbol) anyway I had a doctor tell me drinking just R/o water was not good for you.

That would be RO/DI water, not just RO, hence why you want to tap into the unit prior to the DI stage. I appreciate the heads up though!

 

[FarmerTy]

The tank is needed for the pressure and volume needed to operate the refrigerator faucet and icemaker. A RO membrane makes water very slowly, a few ounces a minute and at basically atmospheric or 0 psi when it comes out. By filling the bladder (pressure) tank with 3-5 gallons of RO water when the solenoid valve in the fridge opens to fill the icemaker tray or faucet you have instant pressure and sufficient volume to meet the demand before the RO kicks back on again to refill the bladder tank.

Alright, one last question and I'll leave you alone, I promise!

The diagram shows an additional carbon filter prior to the drinking water spigot. Is that really needed? Seems redundant. Unless that's just to polish the water one more time since it may sit in the tank for some time if not used often.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Between the RO membrane and the rubber bladder in the pressure tank, they give the finished water a slight rubbery taste. The post RO GAC carbon filter is strictly for tastes and odors.

 

[FarmerTy]

Between the RO membrane and the rubber bladder in the pressure tank, they give the finished water a slight rubbery taste. The post RO GAC carbon filter is strictly for tastes and odors.

Thanks for the explanation. That carbon filter sounds like it'll keep me on the good side with the wife after doing all this. [emoji106]

 

[Kaba]

I've been drinking rodi water for a few years now. First from my system at work (17.2 mega-ohm) and now my hobby system at home. From what I understand if the system isn't maintained properly bacteria growth could cause a problem. And if you are dehydrated it's bad. But if you have at least eaten in the last few hours, as soon as it hits your stomach it's no longer rodi water.

 

[djreef]

The big problem with drinking purified water of any type, be it distilled, RO/DI, whatever is that if you drink alot of it it'll leach the electrolytes out of your body over time, leading to cramping and other unpleasantries. I used to drink mine all the time with no issues, but I also took a vit/mineral complex and ate like a horse (power lifter), so I had no issues. IOW it ain't gonna kill you to drink it as long as you don't get stupid with it.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Again you can't possibly drink enough to do harm as long as you eat a sensible diet. The World Health Organization has been trying to prove it is harmful for decades and decades but the problem is man cannot live on water alone. Eating even one potato chip more than replaces everything removed by the RO/DI and more. Their tests are always inconclusive.

Some of the older folks may remember like 25-30 years ago when a radio station somewhere had a contest to win some concert tickets I believe it was. The context was to see who could drink the most water in a given time. A woman died during this contest. The autopsy showed she drowned internally, she waterlogged her cells so they could not take oxygen etc.

The same thing would happen to you if you tried to possibly drink enough RO/DI or distilled water to do yourself harm. It wouldn't be the lack of minerals or sucking your minerals out, it would be internal drowning that would get you first. Doesn't matter if it's tap, RO or RO/DI.
Eat a sensible diet and drink whatever makes you happy, for me it is RO or a good India Pale Ale!