using old DI resin??

cracker · Jan 20, 2018

Today I'm bored so I went thru the closet of aquarium stuff & found a bunch of old Di resins of various types. Some is blue green some brown , Color changing etc. my filter just read oo1 so it's time to change out the DI. I want to use this old resin just to use it up. I'll pick upsome new & have it on hand.
I'll also keep an eye on TDS .I hear it won't last long but that's ok. Just wondering if mixing differing types of resin might not be a good idea? Or other reason not to use this old stuff? It's been in zip lock bags in a paper sack in a dark closet . Like I said I'm bored today & looking for a project. Thank's

Jeepguy242 · Jan 20, 2018

i always thought DI resin was DI resin and the color change stuff was just a gimmick

i dont think it will hurt, but that is just my opinion... i have no scientific data....

if you monitor your TDS i dont think it would be a problem...

cracker · Jan 20, 2018

I was thinking the same just wondered if I missed something. Thanks

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jan 20, 2018

It won't hurt to mix it, but anion binding resins can go bad on exposure to CO2 from the air.

GraniteReefer · Jan 20, 2018

The color change stuff is MBD-30 a product by resin tech. It's no gimmick and DI resin should actually be reusable with a Citric acid regeneration(even the color changing stuff, however that relies on a Ph change to cause the color change and it won't be able to to that again so TDS monitoring will then be a necessity(or a non used color changing cartridge post the regenerated materials)). Some even opt for a stronger acid to aid in regeneration. For some reason the reef industry doesn't make this common knowledge but skewing away from reef related resources and more towards typical water filtration knowledge will provide some scientific insight to the matter. I work in the water filtration industry and buy MBD30 in bulk for myself and there are other options too.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jan 20, 2018

GraniteReefer said:
The color change stuff is MBD-30 a product by resin tech. It's no gimmick and DI resin should actually be reusable with a Citric acid regeneration(even the color changing stuff, however that relies on a Ph change to cause the color change and it won't be able to to that again so TDS monitoring will then be a necessity(or a non used color changing cartridge post the regenerated materials)). Some even opt for a stronger acid to aid in regeneration. For some reason the reef industry doesn't make this common knowledge but skewing away from reef related resources and more towards typical water filtration knowledge will provide some scientific insight to the matter. I work in the water filtration industry and buy MBD30 in bulk for myself and there are other options too.

Can you explain what exactly you regenerate with citric acid? Can't regenerate a mixed bed that way.

cracker · Jan 20, 2018

regeneration of DI resin, interesting ! Well it's all in there & showing zero's from the tds meter. A trip to the lfs tomorrow will remedy any probs with this mix wearing out quickly. Something else I'd like some Op's on . So on a suggestion from my lfs. I run 2 carbon cartridges Leaving out the sediment filter. One carbon cartridge is very fine 5 micron maybe, the other 10. Not sure if I have those numbers right. Anyway the RO membrane has lasted a very long time & Di lasts also. I run a " lot " of water thru this filter!

Jeepguy242 · Jan 20, 2018

GraniteReefer said:
The color change stuff is MBD-30 a product by resin tech. It's no gimmick and DI resin should actually be reusable with a Citric acid regeneration(even the color changing stuff, however that relies on a Ph change to cause the color change and it won't be able to to that again so TDS monitoring will then be a necessity(or a non used color changing cartridge post the regenerated materials)). Some even opt for a stronger acid to aid in regeneration. For some reason the reef industry doesn't make this common knowledge but skewing away from reef related resources and more towards typical water filtration knowledge will provide some scientific insight to the matter. I work in the water filtration industry and buy MBD30 in bulk for myself and there are other options too.

by gimmick i mean that you get less of the product because of the color changing stuff in it... not that it doesn't work and i have seen when mine changes to all yellowish brown my TDS still shows zero for far longer after it changes

GraniteReefer · Jan 20, 2018

Mixed beds do indeed need to be separated first, there are tutorials online. Your a chemist is says so you clearly can school us all in boring ****! I was also just trying to throw out some ideas, more to provoke research by the OP on the matter, personally I get the stuff by the cubic foot for cheap through my work so don't go through the hassle of regeneration and have never done it personally.

Opus · Jan 20, 2018

cracker said:
regeneration of DI resin, interesting ! Well it's all in there & showing zero's from the tds meter. A trip to the lfs tomorrow will remedy any probs with this mix wearing out quickly. Something else I'd like some Op's on . So on a suggestion from my lfs. I run 2 carbon cartridges Leaving out the sediment filter. One carbon cartridge is very fine 5 micron maybe, the other 10. Not sure if I have those numbers right. Anyway the RO membrane has lasted a very long time & Di lasts also. I run a " lot " of water thru this filter!

You can do it that way but you are wasting an expensive cartridge. The sediment filter is first to get out the larger particles which protects the carbon filter. This helps it from getting clogged too soon and work more efficiently. Both filters in turn protect the RO membrane from larger particles and harmful chemicals. Ideally you would run a sediment filter that was the same micron size or smaller than the carbon filter. I believe my sediment filter is .5 microns and my carbon is either 1 or 5 microns.