UV filter ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dmat21
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Yes it is one of two returns to the tank from the sump. With it plumbed this way I can control the flow through the UV and this one return, bypass the Uv all togeather for maintance , bulb replacement and such.
Is it necessary to run a gate valve on your drain line back to your sump?
 
I have a gate valve on my main Drain. My return splits and goes to 2 deferent return lines. Each return has a ball valve to control flow. On the return that has the UV I split off and returned it to the same return to the tank. This give me total control of flow through UV so I can adjust the flow for what is needed ie alga or pests. Atm only have done a 3 day leek test and tank has been moved in place and currently working on aquascape
 

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I have AquaUVs on three tanks and my pond, which uses a dowhill buried 1000 G cistern as its "sump." On the pond and reef tanks I T off the return line with ball valve to slow flow. On my two freshwater tanks I have it on the closed loop shared with other apparatus like ATS, media reactors, etc. One thing you want to get right is accessibility to the sleeve for maintenance. On reef tanks, the buildup on the sleeve is fast and furious, and maintenance at least once a week to restore it to crystal clear glass is a must. I bought duplicate sleeves for this purpose, so can flip them out and clean them off line. Fortunately, they never get film buildup in freshwater.
 
I have a gate valve on my main Drain. My return splits and goes to 2 deferent return lines. Each return has a ball valve to control flow. On the return that has the UV I split off and returned it to the same return to the tank. This give me total control of flow through UV so I can adjust the flow for what is needed ie alga or pests. Atm only have done a 3 day leek test and tank has been moved in place and currently working on aquascape
Do you have the gate valve on your drain line dialed in or is it wide-open? Also how do you know how to gauge the flow for the UV off of the ball valve?
 
When I did the 3 day leek test the gate valve was wide open and my return pump was at 60%. The return is rated up to 12000 liters per hr or about 3800 gallons per hr. To figure flow through the UV i will time how long it takes to fill a one gallon container and do the math or install flow sensors
 
If you have a single drain only, you should not put a gate valve on it as any restrictions could cause disaster. If you have 2 or more drains, you can put a gate valve on one of them to use it as the main drain with a controlled siphon while the second drain acts as an overflow. Here is a good link explaining all the different types of drains options you have. You should go for a minimum of 2 drains
https://blog.marinedepot.com/education-center/charts-diagrams/durso-herbie-bean-animal-overflow

Try to then plumb the uv in like Chris has done in his pic. Copy him and plumb it into your return line back to the tank. Or if you cant create a loop like he has done, copy the setup ive circled in the pic below and just have the flow return back to the sump. (Blue line)
Screenshot_20210106-000938_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
When I did the 3 day leek test the gate valve was wide open and my return pump was at 60%. The return is rated up to 12000 liters per hr or about 3800 gallons per hr. To figure flow through the UV i will time how long it takes to fill a one gallon container and do the math or install flow sensors
Do you ever close the gate valve at all or always leave it open? Does it have to be a gate valve on the drain line or can it be a ball valve?

After timing how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon container from your return line for the UV what do you do from there? dial it in with the ball valves or control the return pump with the Apex to exact flow percentage?
 
I have AquaUVs on three tanks and my pond, which uses a dowhill buried 1000 G cistern as its "sump." On the pond and reef tanks I T off the return line with ball valve to slow flow. On my two freshwater tanks I have it on the closed loop shared with other apparatus like ATS, media reactors, etc. One thing you want to get right is accessibility to the sleeve for maintenance. On reef tanks, the buildup on the sleeve is fast and furious, and maintenance at least once a week to restore it to crystal clear glass is a must. I bought duplicate sleeves for this purpose, so can flip them out and clean them off line. Fortunately, they never get film buildup in freshwater
Buildup on what sleeve? Sleeve?
 
The sleeve is the part of the uv unit which the bulb sits in. It separates the water from the bulb. Watch some YouTube videos on uvs. How to tune them, clean them, plumb them in etc.
 
The sleeve is the part of the uv unit which the bulb sits in. It separates the water from the bulb. Watch some YouTube videos on uvs. How to tune them, clean them, plumb them in etc.
Another silly question in the closed loop system that Chris built for the UV are the ball valves necessary or just unions would suffice for maintenance? Can’t we just turn off the return pump when we need to do maintenance on the UV? Or that downtime will affect my live stock a good amount
 
Another silly question in the closed loop system that Chris built for the UV are the ball valves necessary or just unions would suffice for maintenance? Can’t we just turn off the return pump when we need to do maintenance on the UV? Or that downtime will affect my live stock a good amount
2 of the ball valves are necessary for tuning flow. So you might aswell go for 3 union style valves and have a fully removable uv unit without having to shut your tank circulation off.
 
2 of the ball valves are necessary for tuning flow. So you might aswell go for 3 union style valves and have a fully removable uv unit without having to shut your tank circulation off.
This is correct I can use 2 valves to adjust the flow or completely stop the flow allowing me to remove the UV altogether for maintenance. If needed I can move all the flow through the UV and dial that to the needed flow rate for what is needed kill algae or Prtoza ie ICH. The way it is plumbed just gives me options. Easier to do now before the tank is filled and running than later.
 
Do you ever close the gate valve at all or always leave it open? Does it have to be a gate valve on the drain line or can it be a ball valve?

After timing how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon container from your return line for the UV what do you do from there? dial it in with the ball valves or control the return pump with the Apex to exact flow percentage?
I ran it during the leak test with Gate valve fully open and used the DC pump to control the flow through the whole system until it was totally silent. If I leave it open fully or not will depend once the system is up and running fully. I like having the options of multiple control points so I can fine tune the system. Apex controlling DC pump , ball valves of Manifold to run reactors and supply calcium reactor. Feed a chiller if needed.

I will use the Ball valves to adjust the flow rate through the UV and that return line. Remember I have 2 returns so I should always be able to get good flow through the whole system
 
I push water from my return through bottom of UV return to eliminate air. Real slow flow through for parasite control, 3 or 4 tank volume turnover for algae and water clarity.

Adds a tiny flux in heat, just keep an eye on your temp for a day just to be sure.
 
I ran it during the leak test with Gate valve fully open and used the DC pump to control the flow through the whole system until it was totally silent. If I leave it open fully or not will depend once the system is up and running fully. I like having the options of multiple control points so I can fine tune the system. Apex controlling DC pump , ball valves of Manifold to run reactors and supply calcium reactor. Feed a chiller if needed.

I will use the Ball valves to adjust the flow rate through the UV and that return line. Remember I have 2 returns so I should always be able to get good flow through the whole system
Quick question again why did you choose a ball valve instead of a gate valve out of one of those ball valves you used in the closed loop system you built to control the flow to the UV?
 
You could use gate valves but they are much more expensive compared to ball valves and you don't need super accuracy when tuning the uv. Ball valves are perfectly fine.
 

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