UV placement

[flagg37]

I’m in the design phase of my build and I thought I had everything planned out until I watched a BRS video about the top UV mistakes. My plan was to have a dedicated pump just for the UV that would take and return water from one of the chambers in the sump. The video made it clear that the optimal placement was on the return plumbing so that all the water going into the display had run through the UV. Makes sense, but I’m curious just how less efficient it would be to keep it the way I was planning. The flow rate through the sump would be roughly the same as the flow rate going through the UV when treating for algae/bacteria. When treating for Protozoa it would be far less.

 

[Shirak]

Are you planning to run it primarily for fish pathogens or for algae/dino?

I watched the various brs uv videos also and I think it comes down to not enough tank water going through the uv if it is only plumbed in the sump for the purposes of treating algae/dinos. Your sump will be sparkly clean though

 

[flagg37]

Are you planning to run it primarily for fish pathogens or for algae/dino?

I watched the various brs uv videos also and I think it comes down to not enough tank water going through the uv if it is only plumbed in the sump for the purposes of treating algae/dinos. Your sump will be sparkly clean though

I plan on running it primarily for algae and then switching to Protozoa when I make any additions or see any signs of infection.

 

[Shirak]

I plan on running it primarily for algae and then switching to Protozoa when I make any additions or see any signs of infection.

ok so you will need high amounts of turnover through the UV. I think the recommended is about 4-5x tank volume per hour. If you are running that much through your sump and you run all the return through the UV it would work. The issue is what to do when you want to slow the flow through the UV for parasites. So you would need a couple gate valves and bypass line to make it work.

If you are running less than 4-5x through the sump then you would need to directly plump the UV to the tank and have it draw water and pump in a recirculation type setup. If you had a DC pump it would make adjustment much easier with a flow meter if it's plumbed direct and had it's own pump.

Sketch attached. Very basic as it would have the bare minimum of a couple gate valves to control flow through the bypass and UV when you wanted to divert some to slow the flow through the UV. I would probably consider flow meter at least on the UV side so you know what your turnover is through it when in parasite mode. Probably need some unions and maybe another gate valve/check valve right after the pump to disconnect things etc as needed.

 

[flagg37]

ok so you will need high amounts of turnover through the UV. I think the recommended is about 4-5x tank volume per hour. If you are running that much through your sump and you run all the return through the UV it would work. The issue is what to do when you want to slow the flow through the UV for parasites. So you would need a couple gate valves and bypass line to make it work.

If you are running less than 4-5x through the sump then you would need to directly plump the UV to the tank and have it draw water and pump in a recirculation type setup. If you had a DC pump it would make adjustment much easier with a flow meter if it's plumbed direct and had it's own pump.

Sketch attached. Very basic as it would have the bare minimum of a couple gate valves to control flow through the bypass and UV when you wanted to divert some to slow the flow through the UV. I would probably consider flow meter at least on the UV side so you know what your turnover is through it when in parasite mode. Probably need some unions and maybe another gate valve/check valve right after the pump to disconnect things etc as needed.

That’s what I figured it would have to do if I was to run it off my return pump. Thanks for taking the time to do a drawing and posting. I think this is the most optimal design; I’m gust not sure I can fit the extra plumbing. I’ll have to do some thinking. I’m also not looking forward to tuning those gate valves any time I switch from algae to prot and back again.

 

[Shirak]

That’s what I figured it would have to do if I was to run it off my return pump. Thanks for taking the time to do a drawing and posting. I think this is the most optimal design; I’m gust not sure I can fit the extra plumbing. I’ll have to do some thinking. I’m also not looking forward to tuning those gate valves any time I switch from algae to prot and back again.

It doesn't have to be exact. Maybe you can just estimate by how much you are opening and closing each valve with handle turns. Most of the time it would just be a trickle through the bypass. For parasite mode you could do something like 80% open on the bypass and 20% open on the UV.

 

[Quietman]

Flow rate for dinos needed can be as high as 8x tank volume per hour just to keep up with reproduction rate. If sump you're taking a fraction of a fraction and it's very hard to get turnover needed. Pathogens bit more forgiving. But if you're in design phase, you should go for both. Closed loop to/from tank direct with either adjustable flow dc pump or big enough uv to provide the exposure needed for pathogens at the high flow needed for algae.

 

[PigDaddyF15E]

I think I watched the same videos. I ended up plumbing all return flow through the UV with option to adjust.

This is what I did. Valves let me currently run all water through the UV. I'm measuring around 520 gph out of the UV. If I wanted to I could open/close valves to change the flow through the UV to fight parasites.

 

[Shirak]

I think I watched the same videos. I ended up plumbing all return flow through the UV with option to adjust.

This is what I did. Valves let me currently run all water through the UV. I'm measuring around 520 gph out of the UV. If I wanted to I could open/close valves to change the flow through the UV to fight parasites.

Looks like a nice setup!

 

[PigDaddyF15E]

Looks like a nice setup!

Thanks...my only regret is not putting in anti-siphon somewhere.

 

[hollydelrae]

Is that a bypass that you have? Or do you continuously run some flow through that pipe as well as through the pipe to the uv. I would imagine there would be some backflow towards the outlet of the uv if the “bypass” wasn’t completely shut off. Trying to figure this out since I’m in the plumbing stages of mine. I must be on at least my 10th design. Thank you!

I think I watched the same videos. I ended up plumbing all return flow through the UV with option to adjust.

This is what I did. Valves let me currently run all water through the UV. I'm measuring around 520 gph out of the UV. If I wanted to I could open/close valves to change the flow through the UV to fight parasites.

 

[PigDaddyF15E]

The bypass is currently shut off but that's because I'm looking for 5x turnover in my tank and the UV is sized for algae rates at/around 500gph so it works out perfectly.

I wouldn't worry about backflow and the water trying to come out of the UV and then go back "down" or for some water to flow through the bypass and then "turn left" and try and get to the UV outlet. Water is looking for the path of least resistance and that is up and out the return lines. The pump is providing enough pressure to keep the water flowing towards those return outlets. Yes they are "higher" and so there is some backpressure from the weight of the water...but the pump is overcoming that.

 

[hollydelrae]

Thank you for your reply. It makes total sense!

 

[adittam]

I think I watched the same videos. I ended up plumbing all return flow through the UV with option to adjust.

This is what I did. Valves let me currently run all water through the UV. I'm measuring around 520 gph out of the UV. If I wanted to I could open/close valves to change the flow through the UV to fight parasites.

I'm piggy-backing on this thread because I'm trying to do the same exact thing. What type of anti-siphon device or valve would you recommend, and where would you put it?

 

[PigDaddyF15E]

I'm piggy-backing on this thread because I'm trying to do the same exact thing. What type of anti-siphon device or valve would you recommend, and where would you put it?

I didn't put them in...BIG REGRET....wish I had. When I shut my pumps off for feeding time...about 2 inches of water drain down into the sump....which sets off my Tunze ATO "water is too high" alarm.

I would recommend putting them in as close to the tank as possible. On my drawing I'd put 3/4" ones in the lines just after they exit the aquarium.

 

[adittam]

I didn't put them in...BIG REGRET....wish I had. When I shut my pumps off for feeding time...about 2 inches of water drain down into the sump....which sets off my Tunze ATO "water is too high" alarm.

I would recommend putting them in as close to the tank as possible. On my drawing I'd put 3/4" ones in the lines just after they exit the aquarium.

Do you know a link to the ones you’d use?

 

[PigDaddyF15E]

Do you know a link to the ones you’d use?

Swing Check Valve True Union

Check valves allow one directional water flow and are used to prevent back flow and siphoning. These are among the highest quality check valves to be found. Relative to other types and manufacturers of check valves, these valves create minimal pressure loss. They are commonly used on return pump...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

or

True Union Check Valve

Spears makes the highest quality True Union check valves. Use them to add a last line of defense against overflows. Check valves allow one directional water flow and are used to prevent back siphoning. They are commonly used on return pump outputs to prevent water overflowing the sump in the...

www.bulkreefsupply.com