UV Plumbing with Two Pumps

megatronald · Nov 1, 2023

I'm planning out my IM INT 200 Peninsula tank with a Bashsea Pro Series 48 Sump. I'll be breaking down an old RSR 250 and have an extra COR15 I can use as a lower flow to target those protozoans. I'll have the COR15 in my skimmer chamber that will connect to the UV sterilizer and back into the return chamber where a RS ReefRun 900 Pump will be the main return to the DT. That will be my option 1. For option 2, on algae and bacteria targeting, I'll turn off the COR15 and open/close the gate valves so that the RS Pump will go through the UV and into the DT. I need a good sanity check and making sure I'm not making this as complicated as it needs to be.

theatrus · Nov 1, 2023

There isn't anything wrong with this approach. My UV runs entirely as a recirculating mode in the sump as I didn't want to redo the return plumbing, and it works well.

However, in a recirculating sump mode, I'd put the UV return back into the skimmer section and put the feed pump (COR15) in the return section next to the main return pump. You run the risk of dropping flow to the refugium super low

crabgrass · Nov 19, 2023

theatrus said:
There isn't anything wrong with this approach. My UV runs entirely as a recirculating mode in the sump as I didn't want to redo the return plumbing, and it works well.

However, in a recirculating sump mode, I'd put the UV return back into the skimmer section and put the feed pump (COR15) in the return section next to the main return pump. You run the risk of dropping flow to the refugium super low

I know this is a little dated - so both pumps in the turn section, and UV going back to skimmer. How to you prevent the skimmer section from getting too much water? Adjust baffling if your sump allows?

In this scenario you are also potentially recycling water though UV, but probably doesn’t matter too much?

dschuffert · Nov 19, 2023

megatronald said:
I'm planning out my IM INT 200 Peninsula tank with a Bashsea Pro Series 48 Sump. I'll be breaking down an old RSR 250 and have an extra COR15 I can use as a lower flow to target those protozoans. I'll have the COR15 in my skimmer chamber that will connect to the UV sterilizer and back into the return chamber where a RS ReefRun 900 Pump will be the main return to the DT. That will be my option 1. For option 2, on algae and bacteria targeting, I'll turn off the COR15 and open/close the gate valves so that the RS Pump will go through the UV and into the DT. I need a good sanity check and making sure I'm not making this as complicated as it needs to be.

I like the design and setup. I am curious if you have a secondary overflow return line. I don't see it in the diagram, but not sure if your diagram shows all your piping or just what we needed to see for the UV conversation.

theatrus · Nov 19, 2023

crabgrass said:
I know this is a little dated - so both pumps in the turn section, and UV going back to skimmer. How to you prevent the skimmer section from getting too much water? Adjust baffling if your sump allows?

In this scenario you are also potentially recycling water though UV, but probably doesn’t matter too much?

Its not that much water, maybe only 200-300GPH. I run UV at long contact times.

BiCoastal · Dec 3, 2023

I have a similar thought as I am planing my Cade 1800 peninsula. It’s Almost same size as your tank. What did you end up deciding?

Mikeltee · Dec 3, 2023

Sump to sump isn't going to do much good for your UV. If you want to target protozoa properly, it needs to be a closed loop in the display. If you are stuck on sump to sump I'd set the cor15 on 50% and maybe sterilize some algae. Just pull and return in the same section. You are probably better off just running it inline with your main pump and keep the cor-15 as a backup. Return flow rate is overrated. Ive successfully ran 3x for 15 years. You would be surprised if you hooked up a flow meter to your return and saw what you were actually getting.

I know what it feels like to dump a bunch of money on gear and feel the need to use it. We have all been there. That's what this place does to you. Usually it causes problems which believe it or not, they will sell you the fix... it's a vicious cycle.

BiCoastal · Dec 3, 2023

Mikeltee said:
Sump to sump isn't going to do much good for your UV. If you want to target protozoa properly, it needs to be a closed loop in the display. If you are stuck on sump to sump I'd set the cor15 on 50% and maybe sterilize some algae. Just pull and return in the same section. You are probably better off just running it inline with your main pump and keep the cor-15 as a backup. Return flow rate is overrated. Ive successfully ran 3x for 15 years. You would be surprised if you hooked up a flow meter to your return and saw what you were actually getting.

I know what it feels like to dump a bunch of money on gear and feel the need to use it. We have all been there. That's what this place does to you. Usually it causes problems which believe it or not, they will sell you the fix... it's a vicious cycle.

@Mikeltee can I ask how would you do a closed room from the DT, assuming the tank is not drilled for closed loop.

JonoH · Dec 3, 2023

I'm running dual returns on my new tank, one is plumbed straight to the return with the possibility of adding reactors in the future. The other is plumbed to a 120 Watt Sterilizer.
So far its working well, just took a bit of adjusting to get the sweet spot on the speed (they are both dialed right down).
Have a Vectra S2 for the return on its own, and a Core 20 on the Sterilizer.
Both returns are in the last chamber of the sump.

Mikeltee · Dec 4, 2023

BiCoastal said:
@Mikeltee can I ask how would you do a closed room from the DT, assuming the tank is not drilled for closed loop.

There's 2 ways to do it. Put a pump in your display and then return it to the display. I hated the look of it so I primed the pump, set it on a ups, monitored the flow with my Apex and shut it off if the flow broke. It never broke. I was dealing with dinos.

Mikeltee · Dec 4, 2023

JonoH said:
I'm running dual returns on my new tank, one is plumbed straight to the return with the possibility of adding reactors in the future. The other is plumbed to a 120 Watt Sterilizer.
So far its working well, just took a bit of adjusting to get the sweet spot on the speed (they are both dialed right down).
Have a Vectra S2 for the return on its own, and a Core 20 on the Sterilizer.
Both returns are in the last chamber of the sump.

You are set then. You can crank the flow with a 120. That thing is a beast! I just picked up a 40 watt for $40 and it's a beast! I lol'd when dude got it out of his trunk. I have a 57 watt but for $40 I said sure. I sterilize my Saltwater for culturing phyto.

BiCoastal · Dec 4, 2023

JonoH said:
I'm running dual returns on my new tank, one is plumbed straight to the return with the possibility of adding reactors in the future. The other is plumbed to a 120 Watt Sterilizer.
So far its working well, just took a bit of adjusting to get the sweet spot on the speed (they are both dialed right down).
Have a Vectra S2 for the return on its own, and a Core 20 on the Sterilizer.
Both returns are in the last chamber of the sump.

What flow rate do you have the UV set for? And since on return line has UV and the other doesn’t, do you worry that some water will never pass through the UV?

BiCoastal · Dec 4, 2023

Mikeltee said:
There's 2 ways to do it. Put a pump in your display and then return it to the display. I hated the look of it so I primed the pump, set it on an ups, monitored the flow with my Apex and shut it off if the flow broke. It never broke. I was dealing with dinos.

I m not sure I understood that

so the pump is outside the thank now? And there are “pipes” that go into the tank for pulling and returning the water? How far down the DT these pipes go?

Mikeltee · Dec 4, 2023

BiCoastal said:
I m not sure I understood that so the pump is outside the thank now? And there are “pipes” that go into the tank for pulling and returning the water? How far down the DT these pipes go?

Yes look at the pic. I edited it. The UV hangs off the back of the display. I dip the pump you see in that pic into the water to start the flow and then mount it right above it. You have to maintain flow or else you will kill your UV. Heres a pic before I decided to get it out of the display. The intake hose was 2" into the water and so was the return. You couldn't see it unless you looked for it. It was a clean install.

JonoH · Dec 4, 2023

BiCoastal said:
What flow rate do you have the UV set for? And since on return line has UV and the other doesn’t, do you worry that some water will never pass through the UV?

I see it as a preventative, not a cure for everything. Sure not all water will pass through, i guess i could shut off my other pump and run it solely off the one pump as i could crank it to close to 100% and still get full covereage just due to the size of it.

Its a funny story actually as i only planned on getting a 90 watt unit, but they didnt have any in stock, so the LFS upgraded me for not much extra.

I did have a Din Flow meter to attach to it, but due to the fact i could absolutely crank it, i didnt worry about it in the end (the flow meter wouldnt measure high enough), and the moment the pump is only running at about 30-40% capacity, so i would estimate it to be at around 600-900 GPH. Based on the below i could crank it a lot more.

If i wanted to add a flow meter on later, i would try a static one first.

Mikeltee · Dec 4, 2023

JonoH said:
I see it as a preventative, not a cure for everything. Sure not all water will pass through, i guess i could shut off my other pump and run it solely off the one pump as i could crank it to close to 100% and still get full covereage just due to the size of it.

Its a funny story actually as i only planned on getting a 90 watt unit, but they didnt have any in stock, so the LFS upgraded me for not much extra.

I did have a Din Flow meter to attach to it, but due to the fact i could absolutely crank it, i didnt worry about it in the end (the flow meter wouldnt measure high enough), and the moment the pump is only running at about 30-40% capacity, so i would estimate it to be at around 600-900 GPH. Based on the below i could crank it a lot more.

If i wanted to add a flow meter on later, i would try a static one first.

Are you running 3/4" on the UV? I lose about 10% flow with the UV plumbed inline with 3/4" barbs.