UV recommendations

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CloudReefer

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Hello, need a recommendation for a good UV unit and pump (if needed) for my 75g tank to deal with ostreopsis and prorocentrum dinos.

Budget is important but secondary to effectiveness. I had a 24w Green Killing Machine that helped but I think I need something stronger.

Thanks!
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED bar
Idech said:
Prorocentrum doesn’t respond to UV. Not sure about ostropsis but research it before you waste your money.

For prorocentrum, you need to dose sodium silicate.
Click to expand...
Prorocentrum will go into the water column when dark, though not as readily as ostreopsis. Ostreopsis will definitely go into the water column at night and is the most easily dealt with dino sp. because of this.

I confirmed ID via microscope. Pretty sure I have some LCA as well but I'm not worried about them because they are low in toxicity.

Have already started adding silica and need a UV to finish the job.
 
Nutramar Foods
CloudReefer said:
Prorocentrum will go into the water column when dark, though not as readily as ostreopsis. Ostreopsis will definitely go into the water column at night and is the most easily dealt with dino sp. because of this.

I confirmed ID via microscope. Pretty sure I have some LCA as well but I'm not worried about them because they are low in toxicity.

Have already started adding silica and need a UV to finish the job.
Click to expand...
I’ve had prorocentrum 3 times and always had a UV running. It didn’t help. I used an AquaUV 15 watts on my 75 gallons. I now have an AquaUV 25 watts on my 135 gallons.

If you buy a cheap one, you will need to get a bigger one.
 
Idech said:
I’ve had prorocentrum 3 times and always had a UV running. It didn’t help. I used an AquaUV 15 watts on my 75 gallons. I now have an AquaUV 25 watts on my 135 gallons.

If you buy a cheap one, you will need to get a bigger one.
Click to expand...
Yeah I don't think my 24w UV is sufficient. It definitely knocked a hole in the ostreopsis population but the prorocentrum are new. I may need to do blackouts in addition to silica etc too get the proro into the water column.

Do you find the 25w Aqua effective on the 135? How do you feel about the quality?l of unit? What flow rate are you running?

I was thinking about getting something in the 40w-50w range and running a very low turnover, maybe 150-200gph max.
 
CloudReefer said:
Do you find the 25w Aqua effective on the 135? How do you feel about the quality?l of unit? What flow rate are you running?
Click to expand...
I went with the manufacturer’s recommendation. I had my tank custom built and that’s what they recommended as well.

My flow is not aimed at treating dinos right now as I didn’t have any (so far).

Here is the recommended flow rates for this model. I believe you look at the 30 000 column for dinos/algae and 90 000 for fish disease.

 
Nutramar Foods
Idech said:
I went with the manufacturer’s recommendation. I had my tank custom built and that’s what they recommended as well.

My flow is not aimed at treating dinos right now as I didn’t have any (so far).

Here is the recommended flow rates for this model. I believe you look at the 30 000 column for dinos/algae and 90 000 for fish disease.

Click to expand...
Current recommendation for ich type parasites is 270,000-360,000
If you want to control ich you’ll need a much larger unit than recommended by this manufacturer. I’d search this forum for proper flow rate and exposure for dinos rather than rely on the manufacturer’s recommendations
 
UV units are great components However, will not remove ich, algae and dino that is pre-existing but addresses what is free floating and passes through its channel/column
 
ThaBeast said:
Current recommendation for ich type parasites is 270,000-360,000
If you want to control ich you’ll need a much larger unit than recommended by this manufacturer. I’d search this forum for proper flow rate and exposure for dinos rather than rely on the manufacturer’s recommendations
Click to expand...
Any link regarding such info ?
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
ThaBeast said:
Current recommendation for ich type parasites is 270,000-360,000
If you want to control ich you’ll need a much larger unit than recommended by this manufacturer. I’d search this forum for proper flow rate and exposure for dinos rather than rely on the manufacturer’s recommendations
Click to expand...
What does ich have to do with this convo? lol :)
 
vetteguy53081 said:
UV units are great components However, will not remove ich, algae and dino that is pre-existing but addresses what is free floating and passes through its channel/column
Click to expand...
Understood. I don't know how ich got brought into this conversation as that isn't at all what I'm treating.

I'm trying to kill ostreopsis primarily so that's what I want the UV for.
 
www.dinkinsaquaticgardens.com
CloudReefer said:
Understood. I don't know how ich got brought into this conversation as that isn't at all what I'm treating.

I'm trying to kill ostreopsis primarily so that's what I want the UV for.
Click to expand...
UV units are Not Dino specific. It addresses prtozoans (ich), algae also
You want to kill Ostreo, its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and no light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
vetteguy53081 said:
UV units are Not Dino specific. It addresses prtozoans (ich), algae also
You want to kill Ostreo, its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure and no light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
Click to expand...
Yes, have done all this religiously. :D

H202 actually led to a really bad outbreak of dinos after use, but I will admit I have never seen my sand cleaner than while H202 was in the tank!

Just a FYI for anyone reading: continuous dosing of H202 through the night is far more effective than a one-time dose. Much more info on this to be found with some google searches. Also, ime shrimp are really sensitive to H202. I lost a fire shrimp and a skunk to H202.

I almost had ostreopsis beat with a cheap UV and high phosphates (0.55+) but I went away for two weeks and came back and it had blown up again and is being much more stubborn this time around. Before I only had ostreopsis, but now I've got some prorocentrum too so blackout might be the only way to get all of 'em into the water column. I also think there is LCA in the mix but I don't care about those really.

Thanks for the response!
 
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