UV repair - starter bulb

[vetteguy53081]

Trying to replace my UV lamp I broke the wires to the starter bulb. Does anyone know if I can replace just the bulb? I found a 4 pin connector with the starter bulb on fleabay but it's $50 which seems excessive for what I need.

This is an emperor 25w 02025

$22 here. Call them for timeline to return to stock

Pentair Aquatics Emperor Aquatics UV Sterilizer Replacement Parts - Buy From MarineAndReef.com

Pentair Aquatics purchased Emperor Aquatics. All of the parts we carry are for both the Pentair Aquatics and Emperor Aquatics UV Sterilizers.

www.marineandreef.com

GDW Aqua Lightech UV Parts: UV Lamps, Quartz Sleeves | UV-Guard

UV-Guard supply a comprehensive range of replacement GDW Aqua Lightech Aqualight UV spare parts such as UV lamps & Quartz Sleeves. Find out more here!

uvguard.com

 

[BeanAnimal]

Any suitable wattage glow starter will work. From a safety standpoint, I hesitate to give actual wiring advice.

If it were me, I would cut the capsule open, take out the choke and replace the glow starter tube with a metal can standard glow statree. Placing the whole thing in a PVC single gan box with cover and cord grips.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Or use the suitable China ballast from Amazon. It is either a choke and glow starter or choke and electronic starter. $35

Like I said, the aqua UV classic that I cut apart doesn’t even have a suppressor cap. Maybe they do now, but this one is 10 years old.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Example

 

[PaulErik]

The starter bulb also has to match the bulb operating specification. They have different operating and triggering voltage requirements.

Almost all current UV units now use electronic ballasts without starters (starter bulbs) but beware of these cheap Chinese ballasts though. They skip out on safety protocols such as over current, open cathode fault and any EOL (Lamp End Of Life) protection. This could allow bulbs to operate many times over the rated wattage and cause catastrophic failure. Another thing is the actual operating wattage can greatly vary and are designed to operate regular fluorescent bulbs for efficiency versus UV bulbs for optimal UV output.

Even some good known UV brands use cheap ballasts for maximum profits but have more warranty issues and failures though. One in particular even does some sketchy stuff and even ignores some compliances. They seem to not care.

I have tested and use many UV units and most of my units have been customized to give me the lowest cost overtime.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Even some good known UV brands use cheap ballasts for maximum profits but have more warranty issues and failures though. One in particular even does some sketchy stuff and even ignores some compliances. They seem to not care.

I have tested and use many UV units and most of my units have been customized to give me the lowest cost overtime.

Long time no see PaulErik!

I don’t know if the Aqua Ultraviolet classic ballasts have changed but the one that I just cut apart is a choke with a glow starter wrapped together with filament tape and sealed in a pvc capsule. No suppressor cap. Just $5 worth of parts shoved in a plastic tube that they sell for $150 - $200 depending on the model.

 

[PaulErik]

BeanAnimal nice to see you again online. I’ve had to repair those same units myself too but they have switched over to electronic ballasts now. Some models are okay to say the least lol.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I ordered that cheap $35 one posted above. I figured I would give It a try. I am not giving Aqua UV $150 for a replacement.

 

[Rimsky]

I ordered that cheap $35 one posted above. I figured I would give It a try. I am not giving Aqua UV $150 for a replacement.

Did it work? Let us know.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yes,

 

[Rimsky]

This is great news!

 

[BeanAnimal]

There are better ballasts out there and I don't know if this drives the AquaUV bulb to spec, but it is working for now.

 

[Rimsky]

Can anyone recommend a replacement bulb for the Aqua UV Advanced 2000+? I’m looking for a decent aftermarket bulb. I would also like to have the purple rubber grommet on hand.
I also would like your opinions regarding the statement by the manufacturer that not leaving the light ON full time will reduce the lifespan of the bulb and the ballast. Is that a proven fact? Why is that?

I would like to have mine ON only at night.
Thank you.

 

[BeanAnimal]

With any arc or florescent tube, each "start" creates an arc that erodes the electrode. Yes, it degrades lamp life, but the bulb will degrade over time anyway. Not something I would worry about if you are not turning it an/off 5-10 times a day.

Just buy the proper Aqua UV lamp from amazon. Not much savings in a no name lamp and you can't be sure of bulb specs and it may live a shorter life if not matched to the ballast properly.

The lamps come with the grommet.

 

[Rimsky]

Thanks for the reply, BeanAnimal. Now I understand a little better. That's for the bulb/lamp. Is there any consideration for the transformer/ballast? Will its lifetime be considerably reduced due to daily on/off (365 cycles per year)?

Regarding the proper Aqua UV lamp, are you refering to any "compatible" lamp, not necessarily the Aque UV brand? For instance, this one should be OK? Should not be considerably inferior to the original one? The price difference is interesting.

LSE Lighting Equivalent 15W UV Lamp for Advantage 2000 | UV Light Bulb | UV Replacement for Aqua 15 Model​

Actually, there is a local vendor here in my city (I leave overseas) that sells a very similar UV bulb (same connector and size it seems, but sold for drinking water purification) that sells them for $10!!! It is tempting! Should that work? Any considerations?

Regarding the grommet, I'm referring to a rubber grommet that seals the quartz sleeve. That one comes with every new bulb? I thought it was a separate buy.

I'm sorry for all the inquiries. I'm completely ignorant regarding this topic.

 

[Rimsky]

It impresses me how I can find UV bulbs and quartz sleeves in my local store at ridiculous prices. Yes, they are sold for drinking water applications and may not be compatible. But it makes me think that the costs are very low compared to the prices that the "brand name" companies are selling these products to us.

Look at this ($6):

Lampara UV 12W Para Esterilizador Ultravioleta WAT18

Lampara UV 12W para Esterilizador Ultravioleta WAT18Ficha Técnica Código de producto WAT18-REP-LAMPARA Procedencia Importado

carbonestore.com

And this ($2):

Tubo De Cuarzo Para Esterilizador Ultravioleta WAT18

Tubo de Cuarzo para lampara UV WAT18Ficha Técnica Código de producto WAT18-REP-TUBO-CUARZO

carbonestore.com

Am I missing something?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Yes there is a tremendous markup on these lamps
It looks like they are selling Osram Sylvania Pureitec series lamps based in a PDF brochure for their products.

PURITEC HNS Linear Lamps | OSRAM PIA

<B>Areas of application</B><BR/><ul class="simplelist"><li>Air</li><li>Water Purification</li><li>Surface Sterilization</li></ul>

www.osram.us

Drive voltage and ballast should be matched. I have no clue what the Aqua UV bulb drive voltage is or who manufactures them.

Example the 20W Hikari lamp is rated at 53W and the Osram 20W bulb is rated at 45W


Both bulbs may run on a 40-50W ballast - but be driven out of spec. This may affect spectral output., lifespan, etc.

So in reality if you select a different lamp, you should purchase a matching ballast.