UV Sterilizer for 220 Gallons?

[Bayareareefer18]

Well what does the ozone do?

Oxidize organics in your water.

Ozone is highly effective. You could even overdo it and essentially sterilize your tank that's why it usually is closely monitored with ORP

 

[Nathan Milender]

Okay, so I should get a water pump for 220 gph then?

That depends on your preference. I was not sure I wanted a UV but I bought a used tank setup and it came with one. I run their 40 Watt on a 125 with a 40 sump. I have Vectra L1 return pump so I figured I had enough excess flow to run mine off the manifold. Without the UV I ran the L1 at about 50%, with the valve open to the UV I upped it to 75%. I have no idea what the actual flow is but the tank is happy, and the corals grow. It is not fun to maintain with the tear down and leak checks.

I have spoken with others who prefer to have a dedicated pump for simplicity as it is hard to determine what your actual flow is through the sterilizer. Some have the apex flow monitors but I do not, and honestly, I am not sure how convenient they would be if I have to plump them in with my available space.

Visualize where it is going to go and think through the added space you need to maintain it. For what it is worth, if I were going to buy a new one I would get one that killed pathogens. I doubt the price is all that different. I would also not be afraid of buying a used one of the model I have as the parts are replaceable. If used assume you need a new bulb.

 

[Nathan Milender]

Bacteria and parasite control. I have a shark tank.

Do your sharks have lasers?

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

Do your sharks have lasers?

Lasers?

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

That depends on your preference. I was not sure I wanted a UV but I bought a used tank setup and it came with one. I run their 40 Watt on a 125 with a 40 sump. I have Vectra L1 return pump so I figured I had enough excess flow to run mine off the manifold. Without the UV I ran the L1 at about 50%, with the valve open to the UV I upped it to 75%. I have no idea what the actual flow is but the tank is happy, and the corals grow. It is not fun to maintain with the tear down and leak checks.

I have spoken with others who prefer to have a dedicated pump for simplicity as it is hard to determine what your actual flow is through the sterilizer. Some have the apex flow monitors but I do not, and honestly, I am not sure how convenient they would be if I have to plump them in with my available space.

Visualize where it is going to go and think through the added space you need to maintain it. For what it is worth, if I were going to buy a new one I would get one that killed pathogens. I doubt the price is all that different. I would also not be afraid of buying a used one of the model I have as the parts are replaceable. If used assume you need a new bulb.

I think the higher watt bulb you get, the more pathogens will be killed. Also I have room I just want it running from a pump and back into the sump. I can't put it on the return line it isn't setup that way.

 

[Nathan Milender]

Lasers?

Sorry, it's an old austin powers joke. See the supervillian rant about not being able to get sharks with freakin lasers on their heads. A shark tank would be pretty cool.

 

[Billyjose4]

Recommendation on this UV sterilizer for a 185gal reef tank?

https://m.liveaquaria.com/product/6182/?pcatid=6182

 

[mward]

I just got a 57 wt Aqua for my 260 gal. As for pump, the slower it goes the better off you are IMO

 

[JVU]

I’ve been reading a lot about UV sterilizers lately. I’d be getting it for level 2 sterilization (ie including parasites). Any thoughts on whether 3" or 5" diameter is better for any given wattage? I realize smaller bore is better because higher level of irradiation throughout, and larger bore is better because longer dwell time/exposure time for the same flow rate. I just don’t know which aspect is more important for our use- reef tank, wanting the highest level of protection against the toughest pathogens.

 

[Montiman]

Traditional wisdom says a 5in is better and this is what most UV manufacturers have told me the light output doesn’t decrease by an extreme amount in just a few inches

 

[LesPoissons]

i have a 55w for my 220. It kept my water incredibly clear but it seemed to kill off my pod population. Many people may disagree with this but before i had the UV you could see all types of pods on the rocks at night with a flashlight. A week or 2 after I added it, they disappeared, I could count only a few per rock. When I disconnected it, I had a huge come back. Idk if the get swept up and damaged by the uv and are unable to reproduce or get killed off directly, but nothing else changed in the tank at the time. Just something to consider if you want a mandarin or anything that would rely on pods. The water clarity was amazing though, as far as Im concerned it did nothing else for the tank.

 

[LesPoissons]

Also, there is latent ich in my tank (meaning 2 years ago a fish came in with it, recovered, and all fish are healthy, but once every few months a fish may start flashing or have white spots for a few days before shaking it off.) But as an fyi- I ran the UV for a year- it did nothing to help with this. Since removing it (I got sick of adding more pods for the mandarin) the ich outbreaks have naturally lessened over time, and outbreaks did not increase with the removal of UV. (Basically, it had no effect either way). I just dont want you to waste your money. Other than polishing water, Im not sure this will benefit you for parasite prevention.

 

[LesPoissons]

oops just saw the shark part so i guess pods arent a concern.

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

Also, there is latent ich in my tank (meaning 2 years ago a fish came in with it, recovered, and all fish are healthy, but once every few months a fish may start flashing or have white spots for a few days before shaking it off.) But as an fyi- I ran the UV for a year- it did nothing to help with this. Since removing it (I got sick of adding more pods for the mandarin) the ich outbreaks have naturally lessened over time, and outbreaks did not increase with the removal of UV. (Basically, it had no effect either way). I just dont want you to waste your money. Other than polishing water, Im not sure this will benefit you for parasite prevention.

Sharks spend a lot of time on the sand bed, the UV light eliminates bacteria that could possibly infect them.

 

[JVU]

oops just saw the shark part so i guess pods arent a concern.

Maybe not for a shark tank, but it is useful info for us reefers considering UV, so thanks for posting it.

 

[roberthu526]

I run a 120W on my 300G for parasite control

 

[Billyjose4]

Anyone think there is a downside to running a higher-rated uv sterilizer in a reef tank?
I hadn’t thought doing so would wipe out a pod population, but it’s something I will need to consider. I was strongly considering the 120w model, but may need to reconsider.

 

[roberthu526]

Anyone think there is a downside to running a higher-rated uv sterilizer in a reef tank?
I hadn’t thought doing so would wipe out a pod population, but it’s something I will need to consider. I was strongly considering the 120w model, but may need to reconsider.

I have a ton of pods in my tank and fuge. If I don’t clean the glasses for three days I see small white spots of pods everywhere on the glass panels. Having a fuge filled with chaeto is key.

 

[Billyjose4]

UV sterilizer have any impact on your pod population?

 

[roberthu526]

UV sterilizer have any impact on your pod population?

Not at all. I have been running UV since the beginning and the pods just keep populating. I probably throw out a few hundred pods every time I trim the chaeto.