UV sterilizer - for Ich and algae. My experience

[shoelaceike]

I recently had a really bad ich outbreak and as a last resort I decided to purchase a UV. I have a 90 gallon tank with a 40 gallon sump. I purchased the AA Green Killing machine 24 watt. It's too early to tell how it will help with the ich but it is doing wonders on my film algae. Previously, I had to clean my glass 1 day after cleaning and my day 2 it would be really dirty. So far its been 5 days and I'm finally starting to see some film algae on the glass. For that alone it was worth the $60. We'll see what happens with the ich. It definitely looks better bitno way to tell yet.

 

[Trickman2]

You are not going to do to much to Ich as it will only help int the free floating stage. I recommend Seachem Focus, Metrodizole, and garlic guard be added to the food. As far as algae that is interesting.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Most if not all hobby grade UV units will do little in the way of parasite control. They will clarify the water column from algae blooms and bacterial blooms.

If you have a parasite out break, you need to remove all fish into a QT/hospital system and treat accordingly and leave the DT fallow during treatment.

 

[Kmsutows]

You are not going to do to much to Ich as it will only help int the free floating stage. I recommend Seachem Focus, Metrodizole, and garlic guard be added to the food. As far as algae that is interesting.

I completely disagree here.. they are known for ich control, they can kill enough to have manageable numbers for the fish, it will better replicate what they see in the wild and with a healthy diet they won't even show signs. The problem is it sounds yours in undersized for this. As far as algae control... they are even better known for this. All known facts here about UV, they just have to be grossly oversized and low flow to allow for enough resonance time.

I have a 57watt on my 150gal and it does wonders. Including with my hippo and Achilles tang

Oh.. just make sure you change the bulb if you see it not keeping up. I recently had to change mine when the Achilles showed ich.. within a day his spots were down to a couple then gone by the next and haven't seen any since

 

[shoelaceike]

I'm just looking to reduce the numbers to give the fish a better chance of surviving this outbreak.

 

[shoelaceike]

I completely disagree here.. they are known for ich control, they can kill enough to have manageable numbers for the fish, it will better replicate what they see in the wild and with a healthy diet they won't even show signs. The problem is it sounds yours in undersized for this. As far as algae control... they are even better known for this. All known facts here about UV, they just have to be grossly oversized and low flow to allow for enough resonance time.

I have a 57watt on my 150gal and it does wonders. Including with my hippo and Achilles tang

Oh.. just make sure you change the bulb if you see it not keeping up. I recently had to change mine when the Achilles showed ich.. within a day his spots were down to a couple then gone by the next and haven't seen any since

This was my best option as I have no room for anything not submersible and this was the only submersible one I'v seen. Its also cheap lol. It seems to be working really well for algae.

 

[Kmsutows]

This was my best option as I have no room for anything not submersible and this was the only submersible one I'v seen. Its also cheap lol. It seems to be working really well for algae.

I'm shocked how cheap, hope it's working. Mine was a fortune!

 

[shoelaceike]

I'm shocked how cheap, hope it's working. Mine was a fortune!

Well its definitely working on algae.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Check out this thread here;
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
UV sterilizers can help manage ich, but never irradiate it. The only way to be 100% ich free is to quarantine, treat and go fallow in the display for 76 days hope this helps

 

[shoelaceike]

I should know in a few weeks if the UV helped. I still won't know forsure though.

 

[HotRocks]

UV will not erradicate ich. It may however control it to a point that is manageable if you have a large enough unit.

Complete erradication is going to require fish being treated in QT and a fallow DT for 76 days. Which in the long run is probably less work and more cost effective. Ultimately it's better for the fish IMO to live in a parasite free tank than a management tank.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

 

[Flippers4pups]

Check out this thread here;
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
UV sterilizers can help manage ich, but never irradiate it. The only way to be 100% ich free is to quarantine, treat and go fallow in the display for 76 days hope this helps

It is paramount to understand the risks involved with using hobby grade UV units for parasite control. @Crabs Mcjones posting of @Humblefish's recommendations of using one for a out break is solid.

I have seen too many hobbyist go down this road in hopes it will manage their infestations, only to have their whole tank wiped out.

It is advisable to remove all your fish and treat them accordingly.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/fish-diseases-101.189284/

 

[shoelaceike]

Thanks guys. I've had ich many times and rarely lost a fish from it. Actually all my fish seem to be getting better. The one that still has a major infestation is my Tusk. All the tangs seem to have gotten past it.

 

[4FordFamily]

An oversized UV with the proper flow (not too slow as not to cover enough water volume- not too quickly so that the parasites will be killed) can help manage parasites effectively. I must add that this is VERY difficult to achieve for many. This works better in very large systems. It also fails far more frequently than it succeeds, IME.

What happens when the bulb dies? The unit fails? Let’s say you aren’t aware. Then, by the time you know what’s going on the fish are already showing spots and the numbers are growing exponentially. The parasite cannot be stopped once it hits some critical mass.

That’s not the only thing they could cause that, any stress event. Aggressive fish, power outage, heater failure, a weak fish that provides a strong host, and a myriad of other issues may give the parasite the upper hand in the best case scenario if a UV sterilizer or any of these management tools fails.

Something to consider.

 

[shoelaceike]

This UV actually will tell you when to replace the bulb. I still don't know if it will work but im hopeful. Last time I had a huge outbreak was a few months ago. after about a month of some fish completely covered in ich, I finally gave in and took them out and treated. This time I'm hoping I dont have to do that.

 

[Flippers4pups]

From some reading from long ago on this subject:

Burgess and Matthews (1994) found that C. irritanstrophonts all detached during hours of darkness when the fish were at rest. This would increase the chance of trophonts making it from fish to substrate without passing through a UV sterilizer unit, particularly for fish that rest on or near the substrate.

Excystment of C. irritans was also found to occur during the dark hours (Burgess and Matthews, 1994; Yoshinaga and Dickerson, 1994; Diggles and Lester, 1996), again greatly shortening the time the theronts spend seeking out a host and reducing the chances of theronts passing through a sterilizer.


Burgess P.J. and Matthews R.A. 1994. Cryotocaryon irritans (Ciliophora): photoperiod and transmission in marine fish. Journal of the Marine Biological Association of the United Kingdom.74:535-542.

Cheung P.J., Nigrelli R.F. and Ruggieri G.D. 1979. Studies on cryptocaryoniasis in marine fish: effect of temperature and salinity on reproductive cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans Brown, 1951. J. Fish Dis..2:93-97.

Yoshinaga T. and Dickerson H.W. 1994. Laboratory propagation of Cryptocaryon irritans Brown, 1951 on saltwater-adapted black mollies Poecilia latipinna. J. Aquat. Anim. Health.6:197-201.

Dwell time is key, as is proper wave length in killing ich in it's free swimming stage.

As @4FordFamily said, water volume vs fish load is also key. In most hobbyist systems that ratio is more fish than water volume in regards to parasites management. Making the parasites have the upper hand and losses a greater possibly.

 

[ca1ore]

Check out this thread here;
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
UV sterilizers can help manage ich, but never irradiate it. The only way to be 100% ich free is to quarantine, treat and go fallow in the display for 76 days hope this helps

The link is a good common sense summary. Key statement is 'keeping the number of parasites down while simultaneously boosting the fish immune system'. UV can be helpful with the former. Good water quality and feeding with the latter. I find it quite amusing when folks poopoo the UV, but advocate the use of garlic. Latter does nothing for ich LOL. Also keep in mind that systems can contain ich, but have it be asymptomatic. That's why so many people think things like garlic can cure it - correlation is not causation. I tend to be of the view that eradication is best, particularly for those less experienced in the hobby.

In orde for a UV to be effective against parasites, it must be as large as possible and with slower water flow than one would use for clarification. I use a 110 watt unit on my system. It certainly helps reduce parasite pressure but does not remove the ich completely. If you can find one, a diatomaceous earth filter can work as well.

 

[Kmsutows]

Check out this thread here;
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/
UV sterilizers can help manage ich, but never irradiate it. The only way to be 100% ich free is to quarantine, treat and go fallow in the display for 76 days hope this helps

UV will not erradicate ich. It may however control it to a point that is manageable if you have a large enough unit.

Complete erradication is going to require fish being treated in QT and a fallow DT for 76 days. Which in the long run is probably less work and more cost effective. Ultimately it's better for the fish IMO to live in a parasite free tank than a management tank.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-eradication-vs-ich-management.188775/

There is actually a few studies that show over time (I think it was 3 month period maybe 6) the parasite cannot survive with heathly fish and adequate additional filtration mechanisms like UV or ozone or diatom filters etc. While it may not be enough studies to prove it it will for sure allow successful management of ich when done correctly.

@shoelaceike I run mine during lights off for the reasons someone else posted... it also should save some life of the bulb

 

[HotRocks]

There is actually a few studies that show over time (I think it was 3 month period maybe 6) the parasite cannot survive with heathly fish and adequate additional filtration mechanisms like UV or ozone or diatom filters etc. While it may not be enough studies to prove it it will for sure allow successful management of ich when done correctly.

@shoelaceike I run mine during lights off for the reasons someone else posted... it also should save some life of the bulb

I'd be interested in that link.

Healthy Fish can definitely live in an ich management tank without symptoms for months or even years. But as soon as a stressor event occurs then BAM!

 

[Flippers4pups]

I'd be interested in that link.

Healthy Fish can definitely live in an ich management tank without symptoms for months or even years. But as soon as a stressor event occurs then BAM!

Agreed.