UV Sterilizer install??

[Reefrookie733]

No you would only have 1 line into the display. What was posted above is just a "U" if you will, made with 2 "T" fittings.

T off the return into the UV with a gate valve to adjust the flow into the UV while not disrupting the flow into the display, then T back into the return line. The "U" goes into the UV, while you still have a straight line past the UV like a normal return line.

Homer,
Thanks for the info, if you look at my pics above i have a ball valve just above the return (for future stuff). Can I run the UV into that and maybe mount it on the wall next to and above the return pump and then somehow run it back into my return line before it gets to the DT???

 

[Reefrookie733]

I have mine plumbed the same way. I pull from my first chamber(after filter socks), and return back into the return pump section.

I just found it easier to throw another smaller pump in my sump, then try and split my return line.

Ok so i like this way that you and Beau B did it. That seems really simple, I've got plenty of room between my first chamber and my return chamber in my sump.
However, I have read alot (BRS) that the UV SHOULD be after the return pump to be effective??

Thoughts??

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have the same one, installed it this past weekend. I utilized a separate pump in the skimmer chamber for intake and have it discharging next to the return pump. All 3/4 piping. It’s horizontal in front of the sump, similar to what Grill posted.

This is how mine is set up. Easy to maintain and service

 

[homer1475]

No idea why the recommendation on after the return pump. I've run UV in this manner for years without problems.

Only time I had it plumbed differently is when I was actively fighting dino's. I had it plumbed directly into the display for that.

 

[homer1475]

Homer,
Thanks for the info, if you look at my pics above i have a ball valve just above the return (for future stuff). Can I run the UV into that and maybe mount it on the wall next to and above the return pump and then somehow run it back into my return line before it gets to the DT???

Exactly why you plumbed in that manifold.

 

[Reefrookie733]

Exactly why you plumbed in that manifold.

Well it appears that it would be a ton easier just to route it within the sump from first to last chamber. I've seen the pics on here and i think that would make it much easier. I have just been doing alot from what i have been watching from things like BRSTV. Trying to make sure I do it by the book, but it appears this is one of those times that there are other options, easier options.

 

[homer1475]

Exactly why I plumbed mine in that way. Just way easier then messing with existing plumbing.

No idea why they would suggest not plumbing it before the return pump, but I've never had an issue, and no else has that I've seen.

 

[Saltees]

All my water from my return pump COR20 goes through the DELTEC UV 80W before returning to the display. And the Neptune 1” sensor reads 1500LPH, which is the rated flow rate for protozoa on my RSR500P (120G) and the COR20 is only running at 50% that also make me to wanting to throw the chiller in-line too.

 

[Beau_B]

The problem with splitting off the return and then trying to put it back into the same line is water will continue to follow the path of least resistance. Depending on head pressure of piping and the unit, it might not “want” to go through the detour and may not flow consistently. You also have the potential for reverse flow, so technically a check valve would be required.

Generally the manifolds are designed to feed equipment that ultimately discharges back into the sump. That’s not a bad thing for carbon/gfo/other but for UV it’s best not to have it recirculating.

I’m not saying it won’t work, but it has added complexity.

The downside to having a separate pump is obviously maintenance and cost of purchase/operating.

In a perfect world the UV would be sized to be inline for your return (matching pump rates) but for most of us it would be impractical to buy a sterilizer that large. I’m running 400gph to the UV vs my turnover is 2-3x that.

 

[Reefrookie733]

The problem with splitting off the return and then trying to put it back into the same line is water will continue to follow the path of least resistance. Depending on head pressure of piping and the unit, it might not “want” to go through the detour and may not flow consistently. You also have the potential for reverse flow, so technically a check valve would be required.

Generally the manifolds are designed to feed equipment that ultimately discharges back into the sump. That’s not a bad thing for carbon/gfo/other but for UV it’s best not to have it recirculating.

I’m not saying it won’t work, but it has added complexity.

The downside to having a separate pump is obviously maintenance and cost of purchase/operating.

In a perfect world the UV would be sized to be inline for your return (matching pump rates) but for most of us it would be impractical to buy a sterilizer that large. I’m running 400gph to the UV vs my turnover is 2-3x that.

So if i go the UV sump route, what size pump would you recommend for the UV. Unfortunately i dont know my flow rate since i do not currently have a flow meter on the system. But i am using a Vectra M2 at about 70%. Also, by adding the pump to the second chamber and returning the water into the return pump chamber will there need to be much adjustment of flow from the return pump??
Right now i have it tuned for each chamber to flow correctly into the next over the bubble traps (i think thats what there called) But adding another pump pulling from one chamber and going into the return chamber might change my balance flow??

By the way, thanks for all the info guys! I really appreciate it!

 

[homer1475]

It won't change your return pump, but you will not have as much water going through the sump chambers as before.

Think of it this way......

You have water entering your sump from a drain, then it goes over some baffles before being returned into the display. The only difference, is now some of the water that would normally fall over your baffles, is now beiung rerouted to the UV, but it is being returned to the return pump. So you still have the same water volume as before the UV, just some of it is being redirected to the UV instead of over the baffles.

 

[Reefrookie733]

All my water from my return pump COR20 goes through the DELTEC UV 80W before returning to the display. And the Neptune 1” sensor reads 1500LPH, which is the rated flow rate for protozoa on my RSR500P (120G) and the COR20 is only running at 50% that also make me to wanting to throw the chiller in-line too.

Very nice setup!! You've got some different apex plugs, you must be outside US.

 

[Reefrookie733]

What size pump would you guys use for this sterilizer??

Pro-Max UV Sterilizer Amalgam High Output 3 inch 55 Watt - Lifegard Aquatics​

 

[T-J]

What size pump would you guys use for this sterilizer??

Pro-Max UV Sterilizer Amalgam High Output 3 inch 55 Watt - Lifegard Aquatics​

Depends on what you're trying to accomplish and also the distance/head height you'll be dealing with. Go with a stronger pump than you need that you can dial back. Either through Apex or a valve.

 

[Reefrookie733]

Depends on what you're trying to accomplish and also the distance/head height you'll be dealing with. Go with a stronger pump than you need that you can dial back. Either through Apex or a valve.

Depends on what you're trying to accomplish and also the distance/head height you'll be dealing with. Go with a stronger pump than you need that you can dial back. Either through Apex or a valve.

I just bought another vectra M2 as a backup for my return pump. Would that be overkill for this?

 

[malacoda]

You have to be able to control the flow through the UV so that it is slow enough for the bacteria to spend enough time exposed to the light on each pass-through in order to be killed. (Your UV instructions should tell you what amount of flow should pass through it.)

If you put the UV in your main return line would likely mean having to restrict the flow of your return pump.

If you run a tee off of the return line, then go through the UV, you can't have another tee back into the return line because the main flow from the return pump would not only try to go through the first tee that feeds the UV, it would also try to flow through the second tee into the 'exit' end of the UV. In essence the return pump would try to feed the UV from both ends ... like feeding water into both ends of a straw at once.

Basically, you have 3 pluming options that will allow both the UV to work ... e.g. sterilize the water ... properly and the return pump to return water to the DT without being limited by the UV:

1) The diagram I showed you earlier which tees of the return line, through a ball valve to slow the flow through the UV, then, out the UV directly to the DT. Yes, this would mean two returns into the DT - one from the return pump, the other from the UV.

2) What vetteguy53081 recommended: A dedicated pump that pulls from the first chamber of your sump, passes it through the UV, then out into the return chamber of your sump. Just make sure either the pump is adjustable or you have valve between the pump and the UV so that you can adjust the flow through the UV.

3) A separate pump in your return chamber that feeds into the UV ... which then feeds into the DT. This is probably the most difficult to set up since you basically two return pumps running two return lines from your sump.

This article explains the hows and whys a whole lot better than I can. The entire article may make your brain explode (I know mine pretty much did). It has a LOT of info in it ... to the point of overload. But the section next to this image in particular may be very helpful:

 

[Saltees]

Personally, I would ensure 100% of the return water pass through the UV. I would rather upsize the UV unit to match your desired return flow. Purpose of the return pump is to facilitate process time in the sump, NOT for flow in the display tank. The flow in the display tank shall be served by powerheads.

 

[Saltees]

Very nice setup!! You've got some different apex plugs, you must be outside US.

Sharp eyes! Outta US with a lot of APEX stuffs. Cheers!

 

[airmotive]

This conversation really went into the weeds and left me confused...and I’ve operated the plumbing systems on nuclear reactors. It’s really not that complicated.

A couple points:

1. Mounting....
Aqua’s manual says you can mount the UV vertically or horizontally. However, with a vertical mount, if your pump fails or is shut off (for feeding, water changes etc) and the UV is ON, you will shatter your quartz sleeve when the pump is turned back on. (Since all the water will drain from the UV, the quartz will get hot and break when water flow is returned). In my photo, you’ll see the UV is in a lower loop. The top valve is cracked open just enough to break the siphon when the return pump is shut off. The UV’s loop remains full of water at all times. (I originally designed this layout so that I could throttle the amount of flow bypassing the UV in order to have the proper flow rate specified by the UV manufacturer. But full flow ended up being in that range and I just go with full flow).

2. The difference in flow rate between the various plumbing configurations....
Personally, I don’t get overly worked up about flow rate through my sump. MP-40s handle tank circulation. I’m only concerned about actual flow rates through my UV, chiller and reactors. So I have flow meters on those. Each of those units are plumbed in parallel so that they can be isolated for maintenance, repair, replacement,etc. I have an 80 watt UV, and if all my return flow goes through the UV I’m looking at 435 gallons per hour. If I bypass the UV, I get 450. Not a big deal so I route all my flow through my UV all the time. In my attached photo, you’ll see how my UV is plumbed. If you look at the valve positions you’ll see that I have the UV being bypassed for this photo (I bypassed it so I could give you the flow rate numbers above. Normally the top valve is shut and the valve on the right is open). You can see that, if needed, I can completely remove the UV from my system without shutting he whole system down. UV bulbs need replacement on a regular basis; you need to be able to remove the unit.

 

[Reefrookie733]

This conversation really went into the weeds and left me confused...and I’ve operated the plumbing systems on nuclear reactors. It’s really not that complicated.

A couple points:

1. Mounting....
Aqua’s manual says you can mount the UV vertically or horizontally. However, with a vertical mount, if your pump fails or is shut off (for feeding, water changes etc) and the UV is ON, you will shatter your quartz sleeve when the pump is turned back on. (Since all the water will drain from the UV, the quartz will get hot and break when water flow is returned). In my photo, you’ll see the UV is in a lower loop. The top valve is cracked open just enough to break the siphon when the return pump is shut off. The UV’s loop remains full of water at all times. (I originally designed this layout so that I could throttle the amount of flow bypassing the UV in order to have the proper flow rate specified by the UV manufacturer. But full flow ended up being in that range and I just go with full flow).

2. The difference in flow rate between the various plumbing configurations....
Personally, I don’t get overly worked up about flow rate through my sump. MP-40s handle tank circulation. I’m only concerned about actual flow rates through my UV, chiller and reactors. So I have flow meters on those. Each of those units are plumbed in parallel so that they can be isolated for maintenance, repair, replacement,etc. I have an 80 watt UV, and if all my return flow goes through the UV I’m looking at 435 gallons per hour. If I bypass the UV, I get 450. Not a big deal so I route all my flow through my UV all the time. In my attached photo, you’ll see how my UV is plumbed. If you look at the valve positions you’ll see that I have the UV being bypassed for this photo (I bypassed it so I could give you the flow rate numbers above. Normally the top valve is shut and the valve on the right is open). You can see that, if needed, I can completely remove the UV from my system without shutting he whole system down. UV bulbs need replacement on a regular basis; you need to be able to remove the unit.

Thank you for the input. I do like to see how others do their setups.

However, not everyone here is thermonuclear plumbing certified experts. Thus if you are an MIT graduate you may want to bypass this trivial session of "let's help out our fellow inexperienced reefers"