UV Sterilizer Pump?

[Hermie]

ultimately, you want to target a "UV Dosage" that's being delivered to anything passing through the UV unit, once you know the target dosage, you can increase or decrease the flow through the unit to compensate for your tank's volume.

low end dosage I believe is about 50 (units) and high is 300 (units), maximum needed is 3000 (units). Depending on what you are trying to kill.

Blue Green Algae is cyanobacteria right?

The manufacturer should tell you what dosage the unit does

 

[Hermie]

Let me ask you a question...

Why do you want to change what's already working? Is there a problem you are trying to solve?
I think that changing UV dosage substantially in the water column can have substantial effects on the microbial "ecosystem" in your tank.

I would only change your UV dosage if you think 400GPH is doing nothing, but for a 55 watt unit, 400 GPH is probably fine.

Which UV Unit do you have?

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

Let me ask you a question...

Why do you want to change what's already working? Is there a problem you are trying to solve?
I think that changing UV dosage substantially in the water column can have substantial effects on the microbial "ecosystem" in your tank.

I would only change your UV dosage if you think 300GPH is doing nothing, but for a 55 watt unit, 300 GPH is probably fine.

Which UV Unit do you have?

No reason just thinking about it, I do have some new brown diatoms which I think are because I broadcast fed reef roids. I have a 55 watt Jebao.

 

[Hermie]

No reason just thinking about it, I do have some new brown diatoms which I think are because I broadcast fed reef roids. I have a 55 watt Jebao.

I saw one website that sells a 55 watt unit and they recommend maximum 4000 GPH, so I would say, 10 times less than that would definitely still be effective (10 times more effective). So I wouldn't recommend it in your case. Wont make much of a difference.

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

I saw one website that sells a 55 watt unit and they recommend maximum 4000 GPH, so I would say, 10 times less than that would definitely still be effective (10 times more effective). So I wouldn't recommend it in your case. Wont make much of a difference.

You seem to really know your UV sterilizers, so I will do as you say.

 

[theMeat]

Diatoms are an algae that imo usually started by silicates. That can then survive on nitrates and phosphates and poor lighting and circulation can have their hand in on it too. That’s not to say silicates are always what starts their growing. Also think seeing algae of most any type here and there is perfectly normal in a healthy tank. Because in a healthy tank there are silicates, nitrates and phosphate present, and with rocks and coral there will be poor lighting and circulation spots. If it starts to take over then there’s an imbalance that needs to be addressed. Do not believe the stories of a uv cleared my tank of whatever in a day or few. There’s always other things at play, whether aware of them or not.

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

Diatoms are an algae that imo usually started by silicates. That can then survive on nitrates and phosphates and poor lighting and circulation can have their hand in on it too. That’s not to say silicates are always what starts their growing. Also think seeing algae of most any type here and there is perfectly normal in a healthy tank. Because in a healthy tank there are silicates, nitrates and phosphate present, and with rocks and coral there will be poor lighting and circulation spots. Do not believe the stories of a uv cleared my tank of whatever in a day or few. There’s always other things at play, whether aware of them or not.

I'm starting to think it's not brown diatoms then, because they are only growing in the well lit areas.

 

[theMeat]

I'm starting to think it's not brown diatoms then, because they are only growing in the well lit areas.

Can’t say whether or not it’s diatom. Well lit doesn’t mean quality, or a wavelength that doesn’t promote a certain algae.

 

[Kasey Grohowski]

Can’t say whether or not it’s diatom. Well lit doesn’t mean quality, or a wavelength that doesn’t promote a certain algae.

I am to think its diatoms, because I haven't had any type of algae/bacteria for 4 months and I broadcast fed reef roids one time and they appeared. The excess nutrients in reef roids is my thought.

 

[theMeat]

Yeah. Reef roids is pretty concentrated. A lil does a lot.
You should add copepods. Good tank cleaners, and live food for many types fish

 

[HCl+NaHO=]

No, you’ll be sure 1/2 is twice as dead.

Double the GPH and 2 times will die

Makes sense to me

Put an Abyzz on it full blast, and sterile the water all the way back to the RODI tank

 

[theMeat]

Double the GPH and 2 times will die

Makes sense to me

Put an Abyzz on it full blast, and sterile the water all the way back to the RODI tank

Yeah. $2500 for a pump is a good plan. Here’s a better one

 

[Jay Z]

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/TMCUVSterilizer.html#vecton6

 

[vetteguy53081]

I run Aqueon unit. Quiet and easy to service

 

[HCl+NaHO=]

UV has intensity and contact time to kill target organisms.

Or destroyed DNA and RNA

I don’t know of any hobby grade UV that recommends lower contact time vis a vis faster flow.

I suppose a partially inadequately exposed organism, will get a second or third trip trough the deadly tanning bed, if the flow is high enough.

There are charts of intensity vs exposure times. I should research those some more soon

 

[theMeat]

UV has intensity and contact time to kill target organisms.

Or destroyed DNA and RNA

I don’t know of any hobby grade UV that recommends lower contact time vis a vis faster flow.

I suppose a partially inadequately exposed organism, will get a second or third trip trough the deadly tanning bed, if the flow is high enough.

There are charts of intensity vs exposure times. I should research those some more soon

Yup
That research shows , and that’s why I recommend, the gph for op’s 55w unit.

 

[HCl+NaHO=]

Yup
That research shows , and that’s why I recommend, the gph for op’s 55w unit.

 

[HCl+NaHO=]

Found this

Interesting

Palytoxin Inactivation

 

[theMeat]

A bit confused. Your first post i’m taking as making fun of me saying going 3-400 gph is too much. Then you post s table suggesting 3 times that. Your first posted table suggests 90,000 , which may not be enough for .... and does not account for temperature or clarity, which like gph are huge factors in determining exposure.
Stand by my 400 gph recommendation

 

[HCl+NaHO=]

A bit confused. Your first post i’m taking as making fun of me saying going 3-400 gph is too much. Then you post s table suggesting 3 times that. Your first posted table suggests 90,000 , which may not be enough for .... and does not account for temperature or clarity, which like gph are huge factors in determining exposure.
Stand by my 400 gph recommendation

UV sterilization is a matter of exposure time

I suppose that cells that go through UV exposure multiple times will die.

I was looking for graphs for IV sterilization for different types of cells. Example, spore formers need as much as 15 minutes exposure to die.

I didn’t find those graphs. I found those instead. I was lazy and posted those instead.

I don’t know of any spore formers in a reef system. But I will assume, from that, that different cells in our reef tanks take different amounts to die or lose ability to reproduce.

In the end, I will be perfectly fine putting a 150gph pump on my UVs, having a pretty good idea that the cells going through it will have enough exposure time, with only one or two passes. My biggest tank is not 150 gallons, having 24 tank turnovers through the UV will be fine for me.

Put a bigger pump on yours. I don’t care. It’s more electricity and more heat. Makes no sense to me, and seems absurd.