uv sterilizer

jose hernandez

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i have a classic aqua 57 watt uv sterilizer for my new reefer 750xxl as far as a pump i have a sicce 1.5 pump is this good enough or do i need a bigger one for it this will be a sps dominat tank with fish
 
No you'll need to size 3 x water volume 80 watt would work best
 
Hello,

Why not use a single dc pump, that has variable control? In addition, in reality these are only level c uv steralizer, level 1 and 2 are the ones you seek. Those will kill (level 1) kills mostly everything most bacteria viruses etc. level 2 kills even more which they will both kill marine ick and velvet, because they Run 185,‘and 145 nm bulbs with a better quartz sleeve. not only having that but the turn rate varies at times and you may want to increase that or decrease it. The better ones have ozone attached as well, but if you get an ozone one, I’d be extremely extremely exact and careful with that. They are not to be taken lightly.
 
online it states that it is rated for 355 gallons isnt that enough?

355 gallons to kill algae maybe. If you just want clear water it is fine I guess. I agree with @Sarah24! aboutbthe D/C pump though


I run UV separate from UV, and have 100W UV. All on a 150g system.

Kills Bugs Dead..... (that may be trademarked)
 
Hello,

You want the uv to have a turn rate of 3x so what ever water volume you have times 3. Then hook it to a dc pump ans regulate the flow with a smile flow meter. However this uv mentionEd is nothing more than a green water clearer. It prevents your water looking dirty. But it won’t stop Ick or marine velvet other bugs alage cyano etc. if you want that one you can an ozone to it but if your new to this then DO NOT add ozone. It’s complex and not only can it Kill your whole tank but everything in the house also. I’d you want to rid of higher things you mjn need level 2 and better would to do a level 1.
 
Not looking for water clarity I’m relying on my filter socks and carbon for that looking for some type of preventative towards fish disease like ich marine velvet as this is a new tank wanted to hook it up before introducing any fish do not have the space for a qt tank
 
You need a level (A) uv.
Like this one.
SPECIAL: AAP/TMC Professional 110 Pond/Large Aquarium System Category A UV Sterilizer- $439.99 LIMITED STOCK At At This Price
 
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It is important to have a flow rate that will turn over the pond or aquarium at least once every 2 to 3 hours for green algae control, once every 1 to 1.5 times per hour for disease prevention (Level One Sterilization)
 
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It is important to have a flow rate that will turn over the pond or aquarium at least once every 2 to 3 hours for green algae control, once every 1 to 1.5 times per hour for disease prevention (Level One Sterilization)

Yes, it’s tricky. The essential challenge with UV as sterilizer is that you need a unit that is big enough to get an appreciable amount of the tank through the unit per hour (In gross terms; fluid dynamics makes things complicated) yet still meet the flow requirement for sterilization. I use the TMC110 noted above. For level 2 sterilization I must nominally keep flow around 8-10 gallons per hour per watt; so around 1,000 gallons per hour total. My system is around 600 gallons. A 57 watt unit would be less than a single hourly turnover for me, something I judged to likely be insufficient.
 
Yes, it’s tricky. The essential challenge with UV as sterilizer is that you need a unit that is big enough to get an appreciable amount of the tank through the unit per hour (In gross terms; fluid dynamics makes things complicated) yet still meet the flow requirement for sterilization. I use the TMC110 noted above. For level 2 sterilization I must nominally keep flow around 8-10 gallons per hour per watt; so around 1,000 gallons per hour total. My system is around 600 gallons. A 57 watt unit would be less than a single hourly turnover for me, something I judged to likely be insufficient.
How do you like TMC110? Is it performing well and how's the duribility?
 
Yes, it’s tricky. The essential challenge with UV as sterilizer is that you need a unit that is big enough to get an appreciable amount of the tank through the unit per hour (In gross terms; fluid dynamics makes things complicated) yet still meet the flow requirement for sterilization. I use the TMC110 noted above. For level 2 sterilization I must nominally keep flow around 8-10 gallons per hour per watt; so around 1,000 gallons per hour total. My system is around 600 gallons. A 57 watt unit would be less than a single hourly turnover for me, something I judged to likely be insufficient.
+1 the longer time bacteria etc is spending exposed to the light the greater chance it has to be sterilized. If it gets blown through there so fast, the light won’t do a dammmnnnn thing. An 80w unit would be better but the 57w is better then nothing if you don’t have room for an 80w
 
I have had name brand uv in the past paid top dollar for them I went to a jebao with the sicce 1.5 it work perfect and would not waste a dollar more on a name brand again. The slower the flow the more it kills period the faster the flow the less it kills. When it was time to change the bulb I did go with Phillip's brand bulb. And if the ballast ever went I would probably wire in a name brand ballast and would still be 100s less into this setup
 
I’ve only had the TMC110 for a year (put a sticky on it with the date to remind me to replace the bulbs LOL). Seems really well built and so far no issues. I’ll let you know once I replace the bulbs. I do wish there was an easy way to run the bulbs independently. It is physically very large.
 
I have read other sources that say the opposite as far as flow rates. I have read more than 2 others state the flow rate for disease is slower than the flow rate for algea control. Longer Exposure time is essential for disease control.
What say you?
 

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