UV sterilizer

[airvicconcre]

I had mine on since day one about 2 years ago. The tank has ICH about 9 months to a year ago, even after 90 days of fallow prior, cos I QT fishes but not coral. IMHO Corals can get their nutrients from fish wastes and feed, and my tank has plenty of them. Both my ATS and Refugium are overgrowing requiring a trim every 2-3 weeks. Everything is a swell!

Till the very moment I decide to turn the UV off totally and Skimmer to 8 hour daily, in favor of biopellets and bacteria seeding/dosing… ICH emerge with a vengeance and within one and a half month, ICH took out a two third of my fishes. I have had my UV up 24/7 now for past 2 weeks, I’m still battling ICH as we speak not sure how many more fishes are to succumb to ICH eventually. I may have to restart my 132G.

FWIW, keeping bacteria in the water column as coral food being natural over running UV 24/7 is a fallacy; nothing we do in reefing is natural.

While we are on the topic of UV…I picked the turnover of the total water volume that I wanted, in my case it would be 3X of 132G, which was 396gph. Then I picked the UV with the manufacturer's rated parasite killing power, DELTEC 80W. And I ensure that the throughput of my COR20 return pump NEVER exceed 396gph with the APEX flow meter, in fact I ran with a 10% safety margin.

Hope the above helps.

Hello Saltee. This absolutely helps. Now all I have to do I find a pump and a flow meter. I already have a spare return pump which I can use however it’s a4000gph pump so I guess that’ll be too much. I don’t know if I will get a flow meter by apex where I live but I’ll try to order it online. Thank you. I intend to start my UV for at least 12 hours in a day everyday. The only thing I was worried about is what if the UV kills all the beneficial bacteria.

 

[Saltees]

The nitrifiers stay in the substrate therefore not affected by UV. If your pump is dc you can dial in, if ac you’ll have to throttle it with a valve. IMHO bacteria in the water column for coral food is overrated. Do take note that length of pipe, fittings do affect the eventual flow rate. If you don’t have or don’t want a flow meter, just measure with a bucket at eventual outlet per minute and multiply by 60, you get your GPH. Then choose the UV to match the GPH, not the other way around. Run it 24/7.

 

[airvicconcre]

The nitrifiers stay in the substrate therefore not affected by UV. If your pump is dc you can dial in, if ac you’ll have to throttle it with a valve. IMHO bacteria in the water column for coral food is overrated. Do take note that length of pipe, fittings do affect the eventual flow rate. If you don’t have or don’t want a flow meter, just measure with a bucket at eventual outlet per minute and multiply by 60, you get your GPH. Then choose the UV to match the GPH, not the other way around. Run it 24/7.

Thank you for the insight, I appreciate it. I will start the UV first thing tomorrow when I reach office and see how things go before I get on a 24x7 schedule. I have another question. Does the UV has to be installed above the return pump? My UV is installed in a different pipe altogether and has a separate valve.

 

[Saltees]

Thank you for the insight, I appreciate it. I will start the UV first thing tomorrow when I reach office and see how things go before I get on a 24x7 schedule. I have another question. Does the UV has to be installed above the return pump? My UV is installed in a different pipe altogether and has a separate valve.

The pleasure is mine.

I ran mine in this order, Sump > COR20 Return Pump > DELTEC 80W UV > 1" Flow Meter > Display tank. I have a separate COR20 dedicated to TECO2000 chiller circulating water in the sump. I feel if you decide to run UV run it 24/7, and remember to change out the UV lamp according to manufacturer's recommendation(usually within a year) not a day more. BTW if the quartz sleeve is tainted, change that too.

 

[airvicconcre]

The pleasure is mine.

I ran mine in this order, Sump > COR20 Return Pump > DELTEC 80W UV > 1" Flow Meter > Display tank. I have a separate COR20 dedicated to TECO2000 chiller circulating water in the sump. I feel if you decide to run UV run it 24/7, and remember to change out the UV lamp according to manufacturer's recommendation(usually within a year) not a day more. BTW if the quartz sleeve is tainted, change that too.

So I can plumb the UV unit with my chiller as well? This sounds better as I’m a little tight on space. Thank you for your help.

 

[Saltees]

So I can plumb the UV unit with my chiller as well? This sounds better as I’m a little tight on space. Thank you for your help.

If you can match the flow rate to both chiller and UV you can, but I won’t. I was running both inline where I need to run the single DC pump very hard and failure will be catastrophic, even though I have APEX controlling. Now I run them separate.

 

[airvicconcre]

If you can match the flow rate to both chiller and UV you can, but I won’t. I was running both inline where I need to run the single DC pump very hard and failure will be catastrophic, even though I have APEX controlling. Now I run them separate.

What would your choice be if you have to run a 55w UV. At the moment it’s installed in an altogether separate pipe with its individual valve where I can set the flow however I wouldn’t know how much the flow would be without a flow meter or being checked manually. I intend to get a flow meter though.

 

[OfficeReefer]

Hi. My Aquarium is been set and running on the FOWLR for the last two months. I have a UV sterilizer installed along with all the other essential equipment however I’m skeptical on using UV because I’ve read mixed reviews about it. What’s your take on using UV sterilization? (If yay, how long should it run for?) @vetteguy53081

I mine installed for algae control on a forced GHA to feed a tomini tang while I was out of town. That and reduced lighting put an end to that in days. Think of the UV as an extra maintenance tool and to get the maximum benefit, one might consider dual return pumps on a manifold with the UV and a variable DC pump, that way you can return the water to the column on the speed you see fit without causing too much noise with your overflow in the main display.

I added mine directly on the return line and run 24x7, it does what I expect it to do, keep algae at bay and if needed, help to maintain parasitic control if I slow it and adjust the overflow return.

 

[airvicconcre]

I mine installed for algae control on a forced GHA to feed a tomini tang while I was out of town. That and reduced lighting put an end to that in days. Think of the UV as an extra maintenance tool and to get the maximum benefit, one might consider dual return pumps on a manifold with the UV and a variable DC pump, that way you can return the water to the column on the speed you see fit without causing too much noise with your overflow in the main display.

I added mine directly on the return line and run 24x7, it does what I expect it to do, keep algae at bay and if needed, help to maintain parasitic control if I slow it and adjust the overflow return.

I am going to have to install a return pump. I have a 4000gph dc return pump which I guess would suffice. Thank you.

 

[Saltees]

What would your choice be if you have to run a 55w UV. At the moment it’s installed in an altogether separate pipe with its individual valve where I can set the flow however I wouldn’t know how much the flow would be without a flow meter or being checked manually. I intend to get a flow meter though.

As long as you can get the flow down to the manufacturer’s recommendations you’re good!

 

[jmichaelh7]

What would your choice be if you have to run a 55w UV. At the moment it’s installed in an altogether separate pipe with its individual valve where I can set the flow however I wouldn’t know how much the flow would be without a flow meter or being checked manually. I intend to get a flow meter though.

I have 2 Aqua Ultra violet plumbed separately on their own Sicce pumps.

I used to have it plumbed in my return line. I like to target parasites and algae separately than my turnover rate of my aquarium

 

[eyecandi]

In my opinion, in would run the UV 25/7 since you have a FOWLR. It will help with algae bloom and parasites. I’ve ran UV in the past. I currently have a mixed reef system with no UV. I did have algae at the beginning but now it’s all gone after my tank has matured.

 

[airvicconcre]

In my opinion, in would run the UV 25/7 since you have a FOWLR. It will help with algae bloom and parasites. I’ve ran UV in the past. I currently have a mixed reef system with no UV. I did have algae at the beginning but now it’s all gone after my tank has matured.

It is a FOWLR for now, I will take a couple of months more to start reefing. Until then it’s all I can learn. Thank you

 

[airvicconcre]

I have 2 Aqua Ultra violet plumbed separately on their own Sicce pumps.

I used to have it plumbed in my return line. I like to target parasites and algae separately than my turnover rate of my aquarium

Actually that’s the easiest and I guess the optimal way to get rid of unwanted guests. I will start with one and see how things go for a couple of months. Thanks

 

[Miniyork]

I use mine 24/7 always

 

[Uncle99]

Apart from testing Ammonia, nitrite, Nitrate and PH what other test do you suggest I do and if the tests have to be run in a daily basis?

I’ve never test for ammonia or nitrate. I’m confident that with rock, sand, flow and a bottle of bacteria, I’ll add first fish in a couple of days, Without corals I test Nitrate and Phosphate on a weekly basis, salinity and temp I keep pinned.

The trend is what’s important to me, I want to keep them level and in proportion to each other.

To little and things starve, too much and we fuel excessive algae growth.

But right in that zone, everything moves forward faster, without the need of additional equipment and waters state clear.

 

[airvicconcre]

I’ve never test for ammonia or nitrate. I’m confident that with rock, sand, flow and a bottle of bacteria, I’ll add first fish in a couple of days, Without corals I test Nitrate and Phosphate on a weekly basis, salinity and temp I keep pinned.

The trend is what’s important to me, I want to keep them level and in proportion to each other.

To little and things starve, too much and we fuel excessive algae growth.

But right in that zone, everything moves forward faster, without the need of additional equipment and waters state clear.

That makes a lot of sense. I have the test kits however I’ve read here on this forum that the Salifert test kit for Phosphate isn’t accurate. Which test kit is reliable and should it be high range or low?

 

[Saltees]

It is a FOWLR for now, I will take a couple of months more to start reefing. Until then it’s all I can learn. Thank you

During your FOWLR phase, add all the fishes that you ever wanted, manage any fish disease along with your PO4 and NO3. Once all that's done then add your corals.

 

[Uncle99]

That makes a lot of sense. I have the test kits however I’ve read here on this forum that the Salifert test kit for Phosphate isn’t accurate. Which test kit is reliable and should it be high range or low?

Hanna UL Phosphorus tester in PPB has served me well for years.
I run a stable 25-35PPB

 

[airvicconcre]

Hanna UL Phosphorus tester in PPB has served me well for years.
I run a stable 25-35PPB

Thank you. Can you tell me the item number. I don’t want to get confused with hr-lr-ulr