Vacuum sand? | Algae Cycle in New 50 Gal Build

[o00brandon00o]

I know to expect an algae bloom cycle, however can (should) I keep it to the rocks and vac the 1.0-2.0 live sand? ...wasted effort? ...just let it happen?

I seem to be at a point now that I would have the best chance to stay on top of it.

I just read to use white lights in photos, enjoy!

View attachment 20180524_172915.jpg

 

[o00brandon00o]

Beginning algae on sand.


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Close up of biggest algae spot.


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Sprinkled on the sand.


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Algae first spotting on the rocks.

 

[Dom]

Cycle with the lights off.

 

[o00brandon00o]

Cycle with the lights off.

Thank you, @Dom! I can do that:

1. For how long, would you say?
2. Have you ever started a new build, and cut the lights on the first algae bloom, when did you turn them back on?
3. Have you ever left them on through a cycle to know that turning them off is THE solution?
4. Is your expected outcome getting to the other side of the algae bloom cycle, but with... ...clean(er) sand & rocks?
5. Essentially, try to slow/limit growth of this type of algae growth in the DT?

Contrary, the LFS guy, "...get those lights on and start cooking the rocks." More or less driving to getting the algae cycle going and over with rather than trying to micro manage the unsightly look of the DT. It's going to happen and its going to be ugly, just wait.

More specifically, can't the rocks just stay ugly as I keep up with sand cleanings? Can I 'just' vacuum the sand? Should(n't) I? Why, why not?

 

[tdileo]

I agree, turn the lights off and leave it off until you’re done. There is no point in cleaning since it will come back until the cycle is complete, then will clear up on its own.

 

[o00brandon00o]

@tdileo @Dom Thanks for the feedback!!

It is neat I have 1 spot to monitor now, close to the front!!

 

[TripleDogDareYah]

Keep in mind that there are numerous cycles with a new tank. The first is the nitrogen cycle where you build up enough bacteria to take care of ammonia. After that you'll start encountering various algae cycles which will vary in length depending on the amount of available nutrients. The first one is typically diatom based which is what you're seeing there. Their limiting factor is typically silicates in the water column. Established tanks rarely see a lot of diatoms since sponges that grow in our tanks bind/use the silicates. You can reduce the diatom phase of your early tank by siphoning them out of the water. Up to you though and typically considered unnecessary as eventually sponges will get in there and make diatom removal unnecessary.

 

[Dom]

Thank you, @Dom! I can do that:

1. For how long, would you say?
2. Have you ever started a new build, and cut the lights on the first algae bloom, when did you turn them back on?
3. Have you ever left them on through a cycle to know that turning them off is THE solution?
4. Is your expected outcome getting to the other side of the algae bloom cycle, but with... ...clean(er) sand & rocks?
5. Essentially, try to slow/limit growth of this type of algae growth in the DT?

Contrary, the LFS guy, "...get those lights on and start cooking the rocks." More or less driving to getting the algae cycle going and over with rather than trying to micro manage the unsightly look of the DT. It's going to happen and its going to be ugly, just wait.

More specifically, can't the rocks just stay ugly as I keep up with sand cleanings? Can I 'just' vacuum the sand? Should(n't) I? Why, why not?

I just completed cycling a new 33 long build. During that time, my lights were in place but not even plugged in. The tank cycled in 22 days as I used live rock and some water from another tank to seed the new build. The lights have been running now for a bit over a week, ramping up to 60% over 30 minutes and then back down over 30 minutes.

Based on my experience (someone correct me if I'm wrong), lighting does not play a role in cycling a tank. So I would say, unplug your light and don't think about turning it back on until your ammonia and nitrates are where they should be (zero). I found this article on cycling a tank to be informative and accurate; have a look: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycle-process-and-stages.284898/

When I cycled with my lights off, I still got some lite shading on my substrate due to algae growth, but I attribute that to lights on other tanks running in close proximity to the tank I was cycling. But it was barely noticeable. In hindsight, it would have been wise to shade the sides of the cycling tank from the lighting of adjacent tanks.

In the end, algae is a plant and plants like light. The more light plants get, the more they grow. No light=no algae.

Dom

 

[o00brandon00o]

I found this article on cycling a tank to be informative and accurate; have a look: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycle-process-and-stages.284898/

Dom

@Dom Thank you for taking the time to elaborate!

 

[o00brandon00o]

@Dom @TripleDogDareYah @tdileo

Lights off, 0%, shrank that spot noticeably in a short time. Still solid on rocks.

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[Dom]

Don't expect to see a big difference overnight.

 

[o00brandon00o]

Don't expect to see a big difference overnight.

@Dom I was shocked to see the sand after only 12 hours, no expectations for anything to happen quickly. The algae only showed up maybe 36 hrs ago. Thanks again!

 

[o00brandon00o]

@Dom I was shocked to see the sand after only 12 hours, no expectations for anything to happen quickly. The algae only showed up maybe 36 hrs ago. Thanks again!

@Dom @TripleDogDareYah @tdileo

Overnight difference and seems pretty noticeable, esp the spot in the front, it had mini brown algae bubbles at its peak. Will the 'algae cycle(s)' complete without seeing algae? Any literature while I search around?

In the longer term: last night I upgraded the ATS pad the 660s are going to bake: https://www.reef2reef.com/posts/4766001/

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[o00brandon00o]

I found this article on cycling a tank to be informative and accurate; have a look: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/cycle-process-and-stages.284898/

@Dom

This article talks about algae cycle with lights ON.

I am not discussing the nitrogen cycle as I believe is the subject of your reply. Unless you have gone through "algae cycle(s)" with the lights off?

Unless you are assuming the ATS LEDs will bear the brunt of the algae cycle(s)?

Please correct me if I misunderstood.

 

[Dom]

@Dom

This article talks about algae cycle with lights ON.

I am not discussing the nitrogen cycle as I believe is the subject of your reply. Unless you have gone through "algae cycle(s)" with the lights off?

Unless you are assuming the ATS LEDs will bear the brunt of the algae cycle(s)?

Please correct me if I misunderstood.

You are correct; my reply was based on the nitrogen cycle. It is what goes on during the nitrogen cycle that feeds algae; nitrates and phosphates are food sources for algae.

I seed cycle my new tanks and I typically don't get Diatoms and Cyno. But I do get a very slight growth of hair algae.

When cycling, my approach is to minimize those things which promote algae growth. I keep my lights off and I also run a refugium with chato in it so that any food sources for algae are consumed by the chato BEFORE algae can take root in the display tank.

There are many things going on all at the same time in a reef tank. And all of these things impact each other. You can't look at the algae cycle separately as the nitrogen cycle impacts the algae cycle.

 

[o00brandon00o]

You are correct; my reply was based on the nitrogen cycle...

@Dom Thank you for clearing that up!

In that case, lights to preferred on/off cycle and let it bloom until everything is done or leave lights off and encourage it in the filter?

 

[o00brandon00o]

very nice

@302lockedandloaded Thank you! Thanks for stopping by!

 

[o00brandon00o]

Big spot in the front is completely gone.

No change to spots sprinkled on sand and rocks, they seem hard too.

Jury still out on normal light cycle versus relying on the 660s??