valentini puffer

hannahrlynch

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hi, i was just wondering if anyone could tell me why my puffer is doing this? he’s swimming fine but then he’ll just go lay down for a bit (he’s done this twice). him & my damsel are best friends & she seems concerned. i do believe i have ich in my system but still trying to diagnose it to see for sure then i will be treating asap.

585B3433-E952-4290-BECB-76A6C871F30E.jpeg
 
hi,are they eating,how long have you had him? acclimation to ?? salinity?
 
hi, i was just wondering if anyone could tell me why my puffer is doing this? he’s swimming fine but then he’ll just go lay down for a bit (he’s done this twice). him & my damsel are best friends & she seems concerned. i do believe i have ich in my system but still trying to diagnose it to see for sure then i will be treating asap.

585B3433-E952-4290-BECB-76A6C871F30E.jpeg
My blue spot does this at night to shelter/sleep. He has several preferred crevasses out of the flow, where he can relax.
I think he's finding a safe spot where he can chill.
 
hi,are they eating,how long have you had him? acclimation to ?? salinity?
yes he’s eating & all my other fish as well. i’ve had him around 3 weeks to a month now i can’t remember exactly. salinity is 1.026. i don’t think it’s something with my water because i have two bta & im new so correct me if i’m wrong but figured they’d be the first ones to show me signs of that but they’re doing great.
 
My blue spot does this at night to shelter/sleep. He has several preferred crevasses out of the flow, where he can relax.
I think he's finding a safe spot where he can chill.
yeah i’ve noticed mine do that when he’s sleeping but usually in a different spot. hopefully its nothing & he just found a spot he likes better
 
i'm not too well versed in ,but i think salinity acclimation may be an issue,after 3-4 weeks ,not sure lets ask an expert,can help you with poss ich also,best wishes :) @Jay Hemdal
 
hi, i was just wondering if anyone could tell me why my puffer is doing this? he’s swimming fine but then he’ll just go lay down for a bit (he’s done this twice). him & my damsel are best friends & she seems concerned. i do believe i have ich in my system but still trying to diagnose it to see for sure then i will be treating asap.

585B3433-E952-4290-BECB-76A6C871F30E.jpeg

Hi, I'm usually not too worried when a Canthigaster puffer lays down on a surface, they do that from time to time. However, I do see some spots on it, and then the damsel has some diffuse spots, the Cryptocaryon (ich) that you've been seeing can also cause lethargy in fish. Do you have a plan to deal with that? It could become very serious in a short time.

Jay
 
Hi, I'm usually not too worried when a Canthigaster puffer lays down on a surface, they do that from time to time. However, I do see some spots on it, and then the damsel has some diffuse spots, the Cryptocaryon (ich) that you've been seeing can also cause lethargy in fish. Do you have a plan to deal with that? It could become very serious in a short time.

Jay
hi jay i actually talked to you before about flukes possibly being on my puffer if you can remember the spots on his eyes. they’ve cleared up since & my lfs told me to wait to see if it gets worse or better because possibly they’re immune system (if they’re healthy) can/has fought it off. since then i’ve noticed white spots on fins of my puffer & damsel, very few, but they’re there. i’ve also noticed white spots on one of my clowns & it has cleared up within 24 hours, now no spots on them. it’s quite confusing because it doesn’t seem to be spreading fast like ich, or they’re just fighting it off as it comes maybe, i’m really not sure. i have two bta what do you recommend for treating ich? i do not have a quarantine tank unfortunately.
 
hi jay i actually talked to you before about flukes possibly being on my puffer if you can remember the spots on his eyes. they’ve cleared up since & my lfs told me to wait to see if it gets worse or better because possibly they’re immune system (if they’re healthy) can/has fought it off. since then i’ve noticed white spots on fins of my puffer & damsel, very few, but they’re there. i’ve also noticed white spots on one of my clowns & it has cleared up within 24 hours, now no spots on them. it’s quite confusing because it doesn’t seem to be spreading fast like ich, or they’re just fighting it off as it comes maybe, i’m really not sure. i have two bta what do you recommend for treating ich? i do not have a quarantine tank unfortunately.
Early on, the ich parasites are all synced up, and they tend to drop off and reproduce at about the same time. That makes the spots seem to come and go. Eventually, if the disease gets going, the spots will be there all the time (but in different locations) and then they grow in numbers. What worries me is that unlike for flukes, there really isn't a good cure for ich that won't harm your BTAs.

Jay
 
Early on, the ich parasites are all synced up, and they tend to drop off and reproduce at about the same time. That makes the spots seem to come and go. Eventually, if the disease gets going, the spots will be there all the time (but in different locations) and then they grow in numbers. What worries me is that unlike for flukes, there really isn't a good cure for ich that won't harm your BTAs.

Jay
well that makes me sad :( what are the cures for ich? i’ll have to figure something out to keep all my fish & my bta healthy. i’m not sure what to do in this situation honestly
 
well that makes me sad :( what are the cures for ich? i’ll have to figure something out to keep all my fish & my bta healthy. i’m not sure what to do in this situation honestly
Copper sulfate is the most commonly used, effective treatment for ich, but cannot be used with ANY invertebrates. A number of companies sell "reef safe" ich medications, but they really don't work to control active cases. The reason they are even on the market at all is because the demand for something like that is so high. The only one I know of that even has tested ingredients that *might* be effective against ich, is Ruby Reef Rally, but a treatment tank and copper is a much better method.....

Jay
 
Copper sulfate is the most commonly used, effective treatment for ich, but cannot be used with ANY invertebrates. A number of companies sell "reef safe" ich medications, but they really don't work to control active cases. The reason they are even on the market at all is because the demand for something like that is so high. The only one I know of that even has tested ingredients that *might* be effective against ich, is Ruby Reef Rally, but a treatment tank and copper is a much better method.....

Jay
is it possible to get something to boost the fish immune system to control it in any way? would that even work ? i’m not planning on adding any new fish so no new hosts maybe it could eventually just die off? sorry if that makes no sense i’m new to this hahaha
 
is it possible to get something to boost the fish immune system to control it in any way? would that even work ? i’m not planning on adding any new fish so no new hosts maybe it could eventually just die off? sorry if that makes no sense i’m new to this hahaha
Immune support certainly plays a role in all this, but so does something called "propagule pressure". What that means is that at some point, even if the fish's immune system is working very well, the number of infective propagules in the water can overwhelm it and the disease then progresses. Same thing as with people: having a good immune system keeps you safer, but if somebody coughs in your face, your immune system will be overwhelmed....I'm just worried that your fish are at that point now.

Jay
 
Immune support certainly plays a role in all this, but so does something called "propagule pressure". What that means is that at some point, even if the fish's immune system is working very well, the number of infective propagules in the water can overwhelm it and the disease then progresses. Same thing as with people: having a good immune system keeps you safer, but if somebody coughs in your face, your immune system will be overwhelmed....I'm just worried that your fish are at that point now.

Jay
they might be but because they’re all eating & swimming fine makes me feel like they’re still okay but i’m no expert.
i could possibly just remove the bta into a smaller tank i have that would fit them (but not my fish) then treat the tank with just the fish in there. i have bettas living in that tank now i’d just have to move them, thankfully they can live in fish bowls for a bit.
does that sound like it could work? if i got proper lighting, filter & airflow for the smaller tank.
how long does treatment need to be for? this is if i can get them off the rock. also would my kenya trees & xenia be okay during treatment?
 
they might be but because they’re all eating & swimming fine makes me feel like they’re still okay but i’m no expert.
i could possibly just remove the bta into a smaller tank i have that would fit them (but not my fish) then treat the tank with just the fish in there. i have bettas living in that tank now i’d just have to move them, thankfully they can live in fish bowls for a bit.
does that sound like it could work? if i got proper lighting, filter & airflow for the smaller tank.
how long does treatment need to be for? this is if i can get them off the rock. also would my kenya trees & xenia be okay during treatment?
Sorry - that just doesn't sound like a workable solution to me - changing a tank from FW to marine is time consuming (you need to start up a marine biofilter) and then, once you have the ich under control, you'll need to remove the copper from the tank, and then, the anemones can still carry active ich back to the tank as long as 75 days later. The Kenya Tree and Xenia (and any other invertebrates) would also have to be moved.

At this point, I think you should either try the Ruby Reef Rally, or just hope for the best and see if perhaps this isn't ich after all, and the fish can recover. Sometimes, there just simply isn't a good cure, given the existing circumstances.

Jay
 
Sorry - that just doesn't sound like a workable solution to me - changing a tank from FW to marine is time consuming (you need to start up a marine biofilter) and then, once you have the ich under control, you'll need to remove the copper from the tank, and then, the anemones can still carry active ich back to the tank as long as 75 days later. The Kenya Tree and Xenia (and any other invertebrates) would also have to be moved.

At this point, I think you should either try the Ruby Reef Rally, or just hope for the best and see if perhaps this isn't ich after all, and the fish can recover. Sometimes, there just simply isn't a good cure, given the existing circumstances.

Jay
i understand i thought about that right after i posted my reply. i will try that & hope for the best. is there anything i could i add to the fishes diet to help them a bit?
 
No - at this point, a change in diet won't really help. You could do frequent partial water changes (and siphon the substrate to remove some of the infective forms of ich, if present).

Jay
 

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