Velvet

She is so far. We’ll, I left home around 2:50 to come to my second job. I have a break around 6 so I’ll run home to check. Before I came here she was swimming around normally. Earlier she was turning upside a few times and then laying on her side completely. I really thought for sure she was dying or about to. I don’t want to jinx it but I’m hoping she pulls through. I’ll keep everyone updated when I get home to check on the fish.
 
She is so far. We’ll, I left home around 2:50 to come to my second job. I have a break around 6 so I’ll run home to check. Before I came here she was swimming around normally. Earlier she was turning upside a few times and then laying on her side completely. I really thought for sure she was dying or about to. I don’t want to jinx it but I’m hoping she pulls through. I’ll keep everyone updated when I get home to check on the fish.
I hate to say it but mine started laying down before it died, i would do something fast like a dip
 
I hate to say it but mine started laying down before it died, i would do something fast like a dip
I did. Read the thread further up a little. I am doing peroxide. I gave her a 30 minute bath. She was swimming around again after this. I am on my way home to check on her during my break. Praying she is still alive! Say a prayer! I will let you know shortly how she is
 
I hate to say it but mine started laying down before it died, i would do something fast like a dip
Just got home and she's alive! swimming around normal! OH THANK HEAVENS. This peroxide is a GOD SEND! Just the 30 minute bath of it turned her around completely. I can't even believe it. Like you said, I really thought she was done. She was upside down so much and then on her side. I had to encourage her to fight it a lot of times. I would take the baster and just poke her to get up and talk to her. She would swim and then go upside down again. I kept encouraging her to fight it. After her bath, I put her in her hospital tank and she went upside down again. I thought for sure, it was just too late, but after 2-3 hours I came back to check on her, she was swimming around like her usual self! I couldn't believe it. And most of the dust faded. Especially the areas that were brownish - her color was returning. its been another couple hours and she's doing well, at least I THINK she is. I have the hospital tank dosed with it as well. I will dose it again when I get home from work - I am dosing with peroxide every 12 hours. The main tank is also being dosed with the other fish.
 
Just got home and she's alive! swimming around normal! OH THANK HEAVENS. This peroxide is a GOD SEND! Just the 30 minute bath of it turned her around completely. I can't even believe it. Like you said, I really thought she was done. She was upside down so much and then on her side. I had to encourage her to fight it a lot of times. I would take the baster and just poke her to get up and talk to her. She would swim and then go upside down again. I kept encouraging her to fight it. After her bath, I put her in her hospital tank and she went upside down again. I thought for sure, it was just too late, but after 2-3 hours I came back to check on her, she was swimming around like her usual self! I couldn't believe it. And most of the dust faded. Especially the areas that were brownish - her color was returning. its been another couple hours and she's doing well, at least I THINK she is. I have the hospital tank dosed with it as well. I will dose it again when I get home from work - I am dosing with peroxide every 12 hours. The main tank is also being dosed with the other fish.
I wish i knew about this when it happened to my flame angel, i just had to watch it die. Hope yours get better.
 
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The vet told me to leave the temperature at 68 degrees. He said instead of putting the temperature more up to quicken the life span of the parasites, to do the exact opposite. He is here now looking at Ruby and helping me with the main tank to see if anyone else has it. My citrus looks like he's about it, he didn't eat when we fed and he's a cow when it comes to food so we gave him a peroxide bath. We dosed the main tank with all the fish and coral. He said to do it every 12 hours and put the temp at 68. instead of quickening the lifespan of velvet, he wants to do the opposite; slowing it down so it can't reproduce and have a chance to get worse. He has a 250g aquarium at home; he's a exotics vet. He had to deal with this one day and he had no fish die using the peroxide if you do it very carefully. every 12 hours 4mL only since I have a 40g tank, just enough to not stress coral, but enough to kill the velvet over time. He said to do this for 30 days. I am going to do 1030am and 1030pm 4mL - a water change after 15 days. and another after the 30 is done.

Edit: I am going to work now - I have a break around 6/630. I will check on Ruby then and keep you posted how everyone and her is doing. I just can't believe this morning before I left for my first job, she was upside down a few times. I really had to encourage her to move - this is what the vet said to do. When you see them on their side or upside down, to always help encourage their mood to move and fight. When I got home from work she looked dead. After the bath - she is now swimming and not going sideways or upside down. She's still breathing very heavy but she is swimming normal. I will try to feed her when I get home. Hope she pulls through!

Your vet is correct in that raising the water temperature to "speed up the parasite" is always a mistake, it lowers dissolved oxygen levels and allows the parasites to attack the fish even faster. It is ancient advice based on freshwater ich, and it is awful advice when applied to marine aquarium diseases.

However, that does not mean that dropping the water temperature is the right thing to do either. 68 F is below the safe limit for many Pacific reef fishes. Amyloodinium tomont division is reported to stop at 59 degrees, obviously too low for reef fishes. The best course of action is to hold the fish in the low normal side of things - for these fish, around 74 F. That will raise the dissolved oxygen levels a bit, without stressing the fish beyond their normal temperature tolerance range.

Jay
 
I wish i knew about this when it happened to my flame angel, i just had to watch it die
Trust me, I totally understand. I really didn't think she would make it. She was upside down so many times. It was awful to watch her struggle. I didn't think the peroxide would work like this. I am amazed at her turn over. I just fed her and she ate mysis. You can still see the dots and dust, but its not as bad as yesterday. Yesterday was a nightmare. She was covered so badly in dust, I never seen anything like it. And every time she would try to swim, she would float back down on her side. This morning I found her on her side, I thought she was dead. I did my best to just keep encouraging her to move and to fight her way, she is one heck of a trooper I must say. This happened to your flame too? That's really sad! This is my favorite fish. I really like her; love watching her swim around. They are such beautiful fish! It is hard to see them struggling like that! I just turned the lights back off for her; leaving them off for a few days and I have the temp at 68. The vet told me to keep it cold. Everyone in the main tank seems okay so far.One of the fish tho I have my eye on. Hopefully this crap passes! Awful disease. Well, hopefully it doesn't happen to you again, if it does, PEROXIDE! I have the spray one. I just do 7 cups of salt water (I don't use the tank water although u can if it doesn't have meds in it) and 7.50mL of peroxide for 30 mins. Every 6 days. And then the tanks have 4mL - the math is 1mL per 10 gallons. So write that down! Keep the lights low and the tank cold. Instead of making the lifecycle speed up, you do the opposite by slowing it down. it gives them zero chance to progress allowing fish to die faster cause its speeding up. You slow its cycle down and it dies a lot faster! Ill upload a video of her now. I think I have to put it on YouTube first and then send it.
 
Your vet is correct in that raising the water temperature to "speed up the parasite" is always a mistake, it lowers dissolved oxygen levels and allows the parasites to attack the fish even faster. It is ancient advice based on freshwater ich, and it is awful advice when applied to marine aquarium diseases.

However, that does not mean that dropping the water temperature is the right thing to do either. 68 F is below the safe limit for many Pacific reef fishes. Amyloodinium tomont division is reported to stop at 59 degrees, obviously too low for reef fishes. The best course of action is to hold the fish in the low normal side of things - for these fish, around 74 F. That will raise the dissolved oxygen levels a bit, without stressing the fish beyond their normal temperature tolerance range.

Jay
Your vet is correct in that raising the water temperature to "speed up the parasite" is always a mistake, it lowers dissolved oxygen levels and allows the parasites to attack the fish even faster. It is ancient advice based on freshwater ich, and it is awful advice when applied to marine aquarium diseases.

However, that does not mean that dropping the water temperature is the right thing to do either. 68 F is below the safe limit for many Pacific reef fishes. Amyloodinium tomont division is reported to stop at 59 degrees, obviously too low for reef fishes. The best course of action is to hold the fish in the low normal side of things - for these fish, around 74 F. That will raise the dissolved oxygen levels a bit, without stressing the fish beyond their normal temperature tolerance range.

Jay
I came to check on Ruby, she is alive and she ate! She's swimming around gracefully. I hope she continues to pull through. The other main tank is doing well so far too. I will dose it again around 1030 when I get home. I really can't believe the way she recovered. she was upside down so many times. I thought for sure it was too late. she is a trooper! I hope she continues to fight

The vet said in the pacific temps can get close to 51 degrees. 68 is okay - its close to 70 which is a stable warm temp. There can be months where the temp in the pacific stay at low 50s
 
I came to check on Ruby, she is alive and she ate! She's swimming around gracefully. I hope she continues to pull through. The other main tank is doing well so far too. I will dose it again around 1030 when I get home. I really can't believe the way she recovered. she was upside down so many times. I thought for sure it was too late. she is a trooper! I hope she continues to fight

The vet said in the pacific temps can get close to 51 degrees. 68 is okay - its close to 70 which is a stable warm temp. There can be months where the temp in the pacific stay at low 50s

The Pacific Ocean gets much colder than the low 50's - but not where coral reef fish are found. Most reef fish are stenothermic, as are corals. Normal temperatures for the Pacific reefs run 75 to 84 F. Hawaii is a bit cooler in the winter, but the coldest the water gets there (around Hilo) is 71. Your vet is wrong, or you misunderstood them.

I'm just trying to get you pointed in the right direction.....

Jay
 
I'm sorry to hear you had to deal with marine velvet, but I'm glad it worked out for now. If you want to prevent it from occurring in the future you can get a properly-sized UV sterilizer. Marine velvet is far easier to treat with UV than marine ich. It only takes about 105 mJ/cm2, which is about the dose for freshwater ich. You wouldn't need to get anything too massive. Just make sure the unit can comfortably deliver that dose at a given flow rate that is at least 1-2x your system volume per hour. The UV transmittance in coral reef tanks tends to be pretty high, but if it's FOWLR you may want to add a correction to account for potentially lower UVT (it's not a linear relationship with dose).

Nice trick with the H202 guys! I didn't know it could impact amyloodinium like that. I use it as a prophylactic dip when adding new fish, but I figured it was more for external bacterial infections. When my power cut out for a couple of hours yesterday I squirted about 150 ml in my 125 gallon freshwater tank (probably far too much for corals though) and walked away without concern. It's great for adding oxygen in a pinch. I always keep a few bottles on hand during hurricane season.

If I add more than that the plants start floating up!
 
The Pacific Ocean gets much colder than the low 50's - but not where coral reef fish are found. Most reef fish are stenothermic, as are corals. Normal temperatures for the Pacific reefs run 75 to 84 F. Hawaii is a bit cooler in the winter, but the coldest the water gets there (around Hilo) is 71. Your vet is wrong, or you misunderstood them.

I'm just trying to get you pointed in the right direction.....

Jay
I get what you mean. I didn’t misunderstand what he said. I will stick with the 68, it’s really not that cold. Temps fluctuate all day in ocean, this is stabilized. It says 69 on the thermometer. None of the corals are stressed, everyone’s flowing and the fish are swimming around as they normally do. Nothing seems stressed out. The anemone is even still out. This vet is well respected in New York. He’s from France and has been doing this for over 30 years so I trust his ability in exotics. He has a very successful aquarium. I trust he knows exactly what he’s doing. Ruby was upside down about to croak and he brought her to life right away. I never seen a fish turn around that way with just a few things like turning the temp down, peroxide and no lights. She’s swimming as if nothing happened. Still covered in a little dust but holy cow what a turn around. I can’t tell you how many times she was upside down, on her side near death. And she ate! Super happy. Hope she sticks it through as well as the tank.
 
I get what you mean. I didn’t misunderstand what he said. I will stick with the 68, it’s really not that cold. Temps fluctuate all day in ocean, this is stabilized.



No they dont fluctuate much at all in reef areas of the ocean. might as well take it all the way down into the 50s if your exotic Vet thinks thats the cure then why bother with all of the experienced reefers helping here... go for it.. but most likely your display tank will have to go fallow to actually get rid of the velvet.
 
No they dont fluctuate much at all in reef areas of the ocean. might as well take it all the way down into the 50s if your exotic Vet thinks thats the cure then why bother with all of the experienced reefers helping here... go for it.. but most likely your display tank will have to go fallow to actually get rid of the velvet.
We’ll, now I can see why your name is yoyo. First off; I came on here to ask what I could do for my fish while I had to wait for a store to open to treat them. So maybe learn to read. Secondly, In fact, over half of all known coral species are found in deep, dark waters where temperatures range from 4-12°C (39-54°F). For this reason, we call these corals the “cold-water” or “deepwater” corals. They are found all over the world. 68 degrees is not cold. That’s exactly why everything in my tank is still alive right? I think I’ll stick to a vet
 
You’re also telling me not to listen to an exotics vet who specializes in fish for 30 years? Lol he has a 200+g. Think he’s just a tad above someone who just has a tank at home. You want to heat the tank so they speed up killing the fish…think about that.
 
I'm sorry to hear you had to deal with marine velvet, but I'm glad it worked out for now. If you want to prevent it from occurring in the future you can get a properly-sized UV sterilizer. Marine velvet is far easier to treat with UV than marine ich. It only takes about 105 mJ/cm2, which is about the dose for freshwater ich. You wouldn't need to get anything too massive. Just make sure the unit can comfortably deliver that dose at a given flow rate that is at least 1-2x your system volume per hour. The UV transmittance in coral reef tanks tends to be pretty high, but if it's FOWLR you may want to add a correction to account for potentially lower UVT (it's not a linear relationship with dose).

Nice trick with the H202 guys! I didn't know it could impact amyloodinium like that. I use it as a prophylactic dip when adding new fish, but I figured it was more for external bacterial infections. When my power cut out for a couple of hours yesterday I squirted about 150 ml in my 125 gallon freshwater tank (probably far too much for corals though) and walked away without concern. It's great for adding oxygen in a pinch. I always keep a few bottles on hand during hurricane season.

If I add more than that the plants start floating up!
What kind of UV do you have? Which ones are good to get? I have a 40g breeder tank. Mostly coral and about 8-9 fish.
 
We’ll, now I can see why your name is yoyo. First off; I came on here to ask what I could do for my fish while I had to wait for a store to open to treat them. So maybe learn to read. Secondly, In fact, over half of all known coral species are found in deep, dark waters where temperatures range from 4-12°C (39-54°F). For this reason, we call these corals the “cold-water” or “deepwater” corals. They are found all over the world. 68 degrees is not cold. That’s exactly why everything in my tank is still alive right? I think I’ll stick to a vet
This is uncalled for. I understand that this is a very stressful situation, but you've been given some great advice from a number of people, and you're now responding in a most unkind way. I'm sure that I'm not alone here in hoping the best for you and your tank -- whatever approach you take -- but this is not the way to state your perspective.
 
You’re also telling me not to listen to an exotics vet who specializes in fish for 30 years? Lol he has a 200+g. Think he’s just a tad above someone who just has a tank at home. You want to heat the tank so they speed up killing the fish…think about that.
One of the guys you've chosen not to listen to on your thread just happens to be the "resident expert" on fish disease on this forum and has also written many well respected books within the hobby - You do understand who Jay is dont you before you shoot his advice down?

 
I'm sorry to hear you had to deal with marine velvet, but I'm glad it worked out for now. If you want to prevent it from occurring in the future you can get a properly-sized UV sterilizer. Marine velvet is far easier to treat with UV than marine ich. It only takes about 105 mJ/cm2, which is about the dose for freshwater ich. You wouldn't need to get anything too massive. Just make sure the unit can comfortably deliver that dose at a given flow rate that is at least 1-2x your system volume per hour. The UV transmittance in coral reef tanks tends to be pretty high, but if it's FOWLR you may want to add a correction to account for potentially lower UVT (it's not a linear relationship with dose).

Nice trick with the H202 guys! I didn't know it could impact amyloodinium like that. I use it as a prophylactic dip when adding new fish, but I figured it was more for external bacterial infections. When my power cut out for a couple of hours yesterday I squirted about 150 ml in my 125 gallon freshwater tank (probably far too much for corals though) and walked away without concern. It's great for adding oxygen in a pinch. I always keep a few bottles on hand during hurricane season.

If I add more than that the plants start floating up!
What kind of UV do you have? Which ones are good to get? I have a 40g breeder tank. Mostly coral and about 8-9 fihi
One of the guys you've chosen not to listen to on your thread just happens to be the "resident expert" on fish disease on this forum and has also written many well respected books within the hobby - You do understand who Jay is dont you before you shoot his advice down?

I am not responding to Jay, that is for yoyo who is saying a vet doesn't know what they are doing, which makes no sense. Every response he says the vet has no idea what he's doing when all my fish are still alive during this stressful time so I really don't appreciate his annoying remarks when I have a vet at the house helping me who specializes in exotics. I started the forum asking what I can do for the fish while I wait for a store to open. That is all I asked. And then rampage started. I have it under control at the moment; no fish are dying, everyones swimming around. The flame angel was at the brink of death and she's okay right now. Hopefully she pulls through. She's been upside down for 2 days and sideways near death and today she's swimming and not breathing as heavy anymore. ALL I asked was for help with what I can do until I can get to the store to get some meds. That's all I asked. Some of the people kindly said to do a fresh water bath and then in went in a different direction. Im sticking with the vet who's helping me because all my fish are still alive. I don't understand how people can say a vet has no idea what they are saying or doing. This is a very very well respected vet in New York.
 
Your vet is correct in that raising the water temperature to "speed up the parasite" is always a mistake, it lowers dissolved oxygen levels and allows the parasites to attack the fish even faster. It is ancient advice based on freshwater ich, and it is awful advice when applied to marine aquarium diseases.

However, that does not mean that dropping the water temperature is the right thing to do either. 68 F is below the safe limit for many Pacific reef fishes. Amyloodinium tomont division is reported to stop at 59 degrees, obviously too low for reef fishes. The best course of action is to hold the fish in the low normal side of things - for these fish, around 74 F. That will raise the dissolved oxygen levels a bit, without stressing the fish beyond their normal temperature tolerance range.

Jay
This is Ruby now. After her peroxide bath, we put her in a QT tank that has peroxide in it as well. I am giving freshwater baths twice a day. Yesterday I thought she was dead; she kept laying on her side and upside down, especially last night. She had a rough night. I stayed up until 2am poking her to keep her moving. This morning, she was swimming around with most of the dust and dots off. Now he has her in 3rd tank filled with API general cure for two days. After her two days he wants her back in the peroxide QT tank. I can’t even believe the turn around. This fish almost died all day for two days. Today she ate and isn’t breathing as heavy.
 
You’re also telling me not to listen to an exotics vet who specializes in fish for 30 years? Lol he has a 200+g. Think he’s just a tad above someone who just has a tank at home. You want to heat the tank so they speed up killing the fish…think about that.
Well here is a fun fact. Jay is basically better than your Pet Vet
What kind of UV do you have? Which ones are good to get? I have a 40g breeder tank. Mostly coral and about 8-9 fihi

I am not responding to Jay, that is for yoyo who is saying a vet doesn't know what they are doing, which makes no sense. Every response he says the vet has no idea what he's doing when all my fish are still alive during this stressful time so I really don't appreciate his annoying remarks when I have a vet at the house helping me who specializes in exotics.
When did i disagree with your vet ? I disagreed with your false statement that you could drop the temp into the 50s in your reef tank. I have degrees in Biology and a doctorate in Organic Chem with a strong concentration on waste water treatment for the last 20+ years. Been keeping reef tanks 30+ years. Sorry its hard to read your posts and your lack of knowledge on the topic. You were offered lots of great ideas to solve your problem. Your failure to understand the life cycle of Velvet is the issue and why you dont understand that you have not cured anything.
 

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