Very big stand

dantimdad

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OK. So if you have experience with monster stands then please lend a hand here.

I want to build the following with common building materials (no steel or lami beams, etc.)

I need to build a stand 12" or 16" high and 96" square. It will support about 600 gallons.

I was thinking of doubled up 2x4 legs and 2x6 cross members on 12" centers then 3/4" plywood decking.

According to what I have read, it should support about 3 times that much weight even before it's skinned.

There will be nothing under it as far as filtration or plumbing so there doesn't need to be access except to peak under it once in a while for leaks or possible critters.

I have build stands to hold over 500 gallons before but those were rectangles and were easier (to me) to design.

Any thoughts?
 
For price of wood etc, I would suggest doing what I wanted to do, but ended up NOT doing......


Square Metal tubing...... Find someone who welds

Edit. I see access isn’t an issue
 
I weld and so does my son.

The cost of tubing is about 3x what lumber costs around here.

I prefer to put the money into other things related to the setup.
 
I weld and so does my son.

The cost of tubing is about 3x what lumber costs around here.

I prefer to put the money into other things related to the setup.
If the stand is going to be on concrete, I would suggest looking at it like you are going to build a super strong deck.

4x4s and 2x6s with some cross bracing and such.
 
If I could find non-treated 4x4s around here I certainly would use them.

The treated ones twist like crazy even in short lengths.

Plus I can cut one piece of 2x shorter than the other and let the 2x6 rest in the notch this creates. This will be incredibly strong. I will be assembling with wood glue and heavy wood screws.

@Eagle_Steve that's what I was thinking. And it will have a layer of 3/4" exterior grade plywood decking on it. This doesn't have to be pretty because it will be wrapped in faux brick and then painted.
 
If I could find non-treated 4x4s around here I certainly would use them.

The treated ones twist like crazy even in short lengths.

Plus I can cut one piece of 2x shorter than the other and let the 2x6 rest in the notch this creates. This will be incredibly strong. I will be assembling with wood glue and heavy wood screws.

@Eagle_Steve that's what I was thinking. And it will have a layer of 3/4" exterior grade plywood decking on it. This doesn't have to be pretty because it will be wrapped in faux brick and then painted.
We can get non-treated up here, just not at big box stores. The doubled up 2xs would work with a screw/glue combo, even if you had one cut shorter for the 2x6 to fit into. I have a brake lathe, english wheel, and a few other very heavy cast iron itmes on the work bench in my shop and it is doubled 2x's and 2x6s. At one point I had 4 rockwell complete axles sitting on it lol. It does not sag or twist a bit. Even when running metal through the wheel. I would assume those things weigh more than 600 gallons of water and the tank that holds the water.
 
In my opinion, metal tubing would have to be powder coated to protect the metal from long-term exposure to salt and humidity, which will rust and damage the integrity of the stand.

I prefer untreated lumber when making my stands. But be sure to paint it as an added layer of protection to the wood. I've always stained my stands and then applied a few coats of polyurethane.

The dimensions of your stand are uncommon in my experience. If tasked with building such a stand, I would approach it as if I was building a band stand; something that is going to hold the weight of 5 or 6 people with equipment.

I would be building it out of 2x6s. And If you can't get untreated 4x4s for legs, I would double up on 2x4s.

I would space my legs every 24 inches front to back and left to right for a total of 16 legs.

Good luck and post pictures!
 
Thanks everyone. I had the idea of building it like a stage as well as a deck so a combo of the two should do it!

I will start on it soon and take pics.

My build thread has become a catch all so look there when it starts.

:)
 
We can get non-treated up here, just not at big box stores. The doubled up 2xs would work with a screw/glue combo, even if you had one cut shorter for the 2x6 to fit into. I have a brake lathe, english wheel, and a few other very heavy cast iron itmes on the work bench in my shop and it is doubled 2x's and 2x6s. At one point I had 4 rockwell complete axles sitting on it lol. It does not sag or twist a bit. Even when running metal through the wheel. I would assume those things weigh more than 600 gallons of water and the tank that holds the water.


Yes, glue and screw them together and wait overnight.

Then, I can build the hole thing dry fit and shave legs to match the floor. This is a very old building and the floor, while really hard, strong concrete, is wavy as all getout. :)
 
Just a thought, In my parts (Colorado mountains) glue lams are very common in construction for new homes. Many times 6 ft sections are the unusable "shorts" that end up getting tossed. Not sure if that's common in your area.

-Tom
 
Just a thought, In my parts (Colorado mountains) glue lams are very common in construction for new homes. Many times 6 ft sections are the unusable "shorts" that end up getting tossed. Not sure if that's common in your area.

-Tom

They actually manufacture them about 5 blocks from my store. :) Still too pricey and even more overkill than I usually do.
 
They actually manufacture them about 5 blocks from my store. :) Still too pricey and even more overkill than I usually do.
I was proposing the free variety from construction sites. However it's surprising how strong 2 laminated 2x4's are.
 
I weld and so does my son.

The cost of tubing is about 3x what lumber costs around here.

I prefer to put the money into other things related to the setup.
Your idea should work, space every 2 feet(the legs), and paint, paint, paint it. Going to be nice setup.
Thanks for sharing, comrade
 
Yes, glue and screw them together and wait overnight.

Then, I can build the hole thing dry fit and shave legs to match the floor. This is a very old building and the floor, while really hard, strong concrete, is wavy as all getout. :)

Maybe some self-leveling concrete in the area of the stand?
 
OK we can put this to rest.

After getting the pool into the building and putting (temporarily) where it is going to go, I have decided to just build a deck style frame using 2x10s right on the floor on 12" centers. I will then deck it with 3/4" plywood.

It would be way too tall at 16" and even a bit too tall at 12".

So, it will be 10.25" approximately tall. That will put the top rim of the pool right at 35"
 

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