Wanting to do a 20L SPS frag tank - Need advice

[Burks]

I'm wanting to get into keeping and fragging SPS (already have a Tyree Ponape colony sitting at my buddies shop that is mine).

I have a spare 20L that I have no problems with turning into a frag tank. My plan is as follows. Please let me know what I can change to make the tank more successful and any flaws you see in my idea.

20g Long Tank
2 x 24w T5HO Tek Retrofit
2 x Koralia 2's
Kalk drip
Skimmerless system (will rely on frequent, small water changes)
Bare bottom except for the live rock

Does this look like an ok plan to do stuff like Birdsnest, Hydnophora, Montipora (plating, branching, encrusting), Porites, and maybe some of the easier Acros and Millies?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I thank you all for your time.

 

[revhtree Verified Admin]

I think it looks like a good plan. I love sand in my tanks, but since you want to do a skimmerless I would do BB and then siphon as you do water changes. Sounds like a cool tank!

 

[Russellaqua]

You'll definitely have to do frequent water changes without a skimmer. Many SPS are very intolerant of anything less than pristine water quality. Very do-able though. I might increase my lighting to at least 60W as many SPS will require 3W or more per gallon to grow well, even in such a shallow tank. I've done 20L SPS frag tanks with 150W over them with no problem. You'll get the fastest growth with low color temperature bulbs, but better color with higher color temp. bulbs. It's up to you which you choose.

 

[Burks]

I was figuring a 10% change every 3-5 days depending on how the levels are. Could always run a RDSB as well to help.

60w eh? Hmmmmm.....I could do a MH then if I have to go that route. Would run me about the same cost then. Ah the lovely aspects of lighting! If I were to do T-5's, I'd run 10k's and maybe one Aqua-Blue +.

 

[Russellaqua]

Montis, Porites, and Hydnophora won't mind lower light, but any acros and birdnests will prefer higher light. In general I tend to use 2 levels in a tank. 1 level is raised up and holds high light species, and on the bottom I put lower light species since they're partially shaded.

 

[Burks]

Yeah I've seen that used before. Seems a 20L might be a tad short to be doing that though, or am I wrong in thinking that?

 

[BibleSue]

I have a 30L prop tank with SPS on the top shelf. I have a 150W MH light & have had a 10K bulb until recently. I changed to & 14k & the SPS seems to like it better. I have the zoos, mushrooms, rics, yumas etc. on the 2 levels below that with some candy cane coral & leathers on the bare bottom. I have to remove all of the egg crate racks on a towel from time to time to clean the bottom of the tank better. HTH

I am still setting up so this is pretty messy right now. The sump/fuge had been set up but not linked yet in this picture & there was live rock & the skimmer on the prop tank. The sump/fuge is a 20H.

 

[tunicata]

I saw someone set up a 20g L tank on some site, wish I could remember.
They used a seaclone 100, regular whisper filter I think (60), heater, a koralia powerhead, and thats all I believe.

They had sand and LR in the system. They didnt set it up for SPS purely but, As long as the power head isnt picking up too much sand then I figure it's fine. And if it is barebottom, (or less than 3inch SB) you can still set up tiers.
Eggcrate on sand, 1-2 inches higher another tier, then 1-2 inches the last tier.

You can create the 'stadium style' seating and ziptie the crate to whatever pvc/stand you want, or tie it/glue it to rock 'corner stones'.

If I ever did this, I would maybe take 4x4" of space in a corner and set up some macro to 'polish' water as well. You'll have tons of space left for frags.