Water change disaster. What did I do?

[Johnny C]

Thanks, found it, following and will read it soon. We are here to help Johnny!!

Thank you

 

[kwramsey2]

Did you mean a 150 gallon sump or actually 15? If it’s 15 I would majorly upgrade it your sump.

 

[excell007]

[/QUOTE]I used a 33 gallon trash can. I had a submersible pump stirring up the water for 24 hours before I had the chance to change the water. My only guess is that the saltwater was Somewhat separated on top and fresh water was on bottom. When I tested I am testing the salt water when really the rest of the trash can was relatively fresh water. Is this nonsense or logical thinking?[/QUOTE]

I don't think this will happen, because saltwater is more dense than fresh water. Is your ATO source a reservoir or an RODI, you mentioned pump but I am not sure if you meant booster pump. if it is from a reservoir then it is not ATO because I don't think you will have a 20gal reservoir. If your ATO source is RODI, is it posible that it is running even if the booster pump is off? I know it is not supposed to, but the pressure switch can be defective. If it is definitely not running then like others have said the only other thing to consider is wrong salinity tester.

 

[Paulie069]

Apex salinity prob is not the most accurate. When did u last calibrate it?
Did temperature of ur tank drop as well? (Notice the salinity prob reading low when temperature is lowered. )

U should really test ur salinity with a more reliable source.

The Milwaukee salinity tester is a very good one

 

[Paulie069]

I used a 33 gallon trash can. I had a submersible pump stirring up the water for 24 hours before I had the chance to change the water. My only guess is that the saltwater was Somewhat separated on top and fresh water was on bottom. When I tested I am testing the salt water when really the rest of the trash can was relatively fresh water. Is this nonsense or logical thinking?

One of the reasons I Only use 100% Ocean Water from 8-15 miles offshore