Water Changes Discussed

[Brice Wagner]

Hello Reefers!

I am new to this hobby. I am a analytical chemist by trade so water testing is one of the reasons I picked up this past time. I know that water changes are important and necessary and I would like further discussion of the process and what it can be used to accomplish.

I intend to use water changes to lower nitrate in my 20 gal (no sump) and like anything to do with my aquarium, I am going to research. This seems like a fairly simple topic but I find it interesting and would like a more in depth discussion.

What are the aspects of your water chemistry that you influence with water changes?
How much fluctuation do you typically see in pH with doing different water change quantities?
Do you typically take KH (alkalinity)(buffer capacity) into account?
How do you discern the appropriate amount of WC? (Higher levels NH3/N02/N03, more water changed?)
Are there any tips and tricks or common pit falls associated with water changes?
How can you work toward fewer WCs?
How might your living filter react to different quantities of WC?
Benefits of using RO water or a constant WC system?

Please post any information about WCs, or water chemistry in general, that you think may be useful as I may not know the right questions to ask.

 

[FartyParty]

For me, I run Triton and the only two times I do water changes are:
- if they tell me to via ICP test results
- if I see excessive buildup of algae on stuff or if something died, I’ll do a 5 gallon change and retest water for ALK target.

 

[madweazl]

Hello Reefers!

I am new to this hobby. I am a analytical chemist by trade so water testing is one of the reasons I picked up this past time. I know that water changes are important and necessary and I would like further discussion of the process and what it can be used to accomplish.

I intend to use water changes to lower nitrate in my 20 gal (no sump) and like anything to do with my aquarium, I am going to research. This seems like a fairly simple topic but I find it interesting and would like a more in depth discussion.

What are the aspects of your water chemistry that you influence with water changes?
How much fluctuation do you typically see in pH with doing different water change quantities?
Do you typically take KH (alkalinity)(buffer capacity) into account?
How do you discern the appropriate amount of WC? (Higher levels NH3/N02/N03, more water changed?)
Are there any tips and tricks or common pit falls associated with water changes?
How can you work toward fewer WCs?
How might your living filter react to different quantities of WC?
Benefits of using RO water or a constant WC system?

Please post any information about WCs, or water chemistry in general, that you think may be useful as I may not know the right questions to ask.

1) I have zero fluctuation in regard to pH.
2) I reduce the alkalinity of the fresh mixed saltwater with muriatic acid; because of this, the water mixes for roughly 18 hours while the pH recovers.
3)Over time, you'll get a sense of how much is needed by monitoring your parameters. If I were using it for nutrient export and 10% didn't lower the levels enough, I'd change more water. If it went too far the other way, I'd reduce the amount changed.
4) Matching alkalinity, salinity, and temperature are likely the most important (no reaction from my corals when I perform a water change).
5) By reducing nutrients (e.g. ATS, refugium, stocking levels, etc.) and adding depleted essential elements (e.g. balling methods).
6) I've never noted a reaction.
7) Never used a constant water change method but stability would likely be the biggest positive affect of using one.

 

[Waters]

Hello Reefers!

I am new to this hobby. I am a analytical chemist by trade so water testing is one of the reasons I picked up this past time. I know that water changes are important and necessary and I would like further discussion of the process and what it can be used to accomplish.

I intend to use water changes to lower nitrate in my 20 gal (no sump) and like anything to do with my aquarium, I am going to research. This seems like a fairly simple topic but I find it interesting and would like a more in depth discussion.

What are the aspects of your water chemistry that you influence with water changes?
How much fluctuation do you typically see in pH with doing different water change quantities?
Do you typically take KH (alkalinity)(buffer capacity) into account?
How do you discern the appropriate amount of WC? (Higher levels NH3/N02/N03, more water changed?)
Are there any tips and tricks or common pit falls associated with water changes?
How can you work toward fewer WCs?
How might your living filter react to different quantities of WC?
Benefits of using RO water or a constant WC system?

Please post any information about WCs, or water chemistry in general, that you think may be useful as I may not know the right questions to ask.

In its' simplest terms, the water change water should equal your tank water in all aspects....temp, salinity, ALK, PH etc. As long as those numbers are in line, you can virtually change the entire tank at one time. Some people do zero water changes by dosing anything that is depleted, and not replenished by water changes.

 

[Brice Wagner]

For me, I run Triton and the only two times I do water changes are:
- if they tell me to via ICP test results
- if I see excessive buildup of algae on stuff or if something died, I’ll do a 5 gallon change and retest water for ALK target.

Im new with these acronyms. ICP? In my world that is ICP-AES which is a trace metal analysis. If thats what your talking about I am very impressed.

I just looked up Triton... and yes this is very rigorous. Much respect. I work adjacent to heavy metals lab and have always wanted to mess around with an ICP. PLASMA!!

 

[reeferfoxx]

4) Matching alkalinity, salinity, and temperature are likely the most important (no reaction from my corals when I perform a water change).

The only thing I would critique here in regards to a 20 gallon nano is taking in part a lack of dosing regimen. If your alk consumption isn't great and therefore have no necessity of dosing elements, a water change with a slightly higher alk would benefit. Again, that's only if water changes are to replenish elements as opposed to dosing. Everything else you've stated is sound.

 

[FartyParty]

Im new with these acronyms. ICP? In my world that is ICP-AES which is a trace metal analysis. If thats what your talking about I am very impressed.

I just looked up Triton... and yes this is very rigorous. Much respect. I work adjacent to heavy metals lab and have always wanted to mess around with an ICP. PLASMA!!

Triton is good for dummies like me who understand in concept what these elements are, but not the levels they should be kept in an aquarium. When I’m not sure about something, I simply send for testing. It’s not the cheapest method, but if I wanted to save money I wouldn’t have a box full of corals in my formal dining room.

I know what you mean about the coolness factor. I got a chemistry minor for fun during my undergrad and we used VX gas and IR scope machines for analysis, but never anything like plasma.

 

[beaslbob]

Brice: I suggest you check out Dr Randy Holmes-Farley's forum reef chemistry on this board. You might pay carefull attention to is discussions and alk, pH, and the imporved diy two part system.

That said water changes IMHO should not be the main way to reduce or export nitrogen. Actually, for anything else for that matter. What happens is the tank increases (or decreases) to where the change between water changes is removed by the water change. For instance, if you change out 1/10 or the tank the tank increases to 10 times the change then back down to 9 and back up to 10. 1/5 5 times, 1/100 100 times and so on.
But with nitrates it is extremely easy with algae to remove the nitrates as the build up and therefore just remain at unmeasurable levels regardless of the water changes.

The key with whatever system is get the tank balanced out and stabilized. As mentioned above there are various methods of dosing things that deplete and consuming things the build up.

But that's all just my .02

 

[reeferfoxx]

I have a hard time keeping nutrients in my 30g even after almost 3 years. 15% wc might be too much for my nano. Just my .02

 

[Ron Reefman]

I keep a 5g tank that is part quarantine tank and part holding tank. I'm not big on quarantine so it's more of a holding tank for critters (including coral) that I'm moving or removing from my DT. I also use it to hold some critters I collect from the wild (snorkeling in the Florida Keys). I have a good led light fixture and a small wavemaker in the tank but absolutely no filtration. OK, that's the tank. My water change regime for this tank is a 50% or 100% water change every 2 weeks if it's heavy use or long if it's being used less. I've kept corals, snails, crabs, serpent stars and sponges in that tank for as long as 3 or 4 months and I've seen no issues other than needing a day to acclimate after a 100% WC.