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What is the alkalinity of your water change water? Would the water change be causing an all swing?
I'm only doing extremely small frequent water changes (1 gal a day).
like clockwork everytime I do a water change I have an sps coral either stn or rtn shortly after.
Alk is 9.2 as well which is making me think jsvand5 is correct because at 1.026 Brightwell is supposed to mix to 8.5 so I'm going to stop water changes until I get the solution from Amazon on ThursdayWhat is the alkalinity of your water change water? Would the water change be causing an all swing?
Added half a cup 2 days agoTry running activated carbon, I like Aquachar.
How long have you been doing daily water changes? How many gallons is the system?
If your parameters are remaining fairly stable, I'm just curious why you're suspecting each individual daily one gallon WC as the culprit for the damage to the corals. Sounds more like a cumulative effect. The weakest, most sensitive corals would be the first to be affected. If the water changes were larger AND days or weeks apart, I would definitely see the connection.
Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to wrap my brain around the issue.
I would have a friend or trusted LFS confirm all of your test results (including SG), and if everything checks out, start slowly raising PO4.
I believe it's going to be the salinity as I stated in my last reply, and thank youThe instructions that come with low-cost instruments were in all likelihood written in 5 minutes by one random employee, then shipped off without ever being checked.
I never understand why people put so much faith in the 'instructions' that come with these things, like they were peer-reviewed papers by physicists or something. Its a random piece of throw-away text they included in the box only so they could say "instructions included".
All instruments have to be calibrated, and single point calibrations are best conducted at a level near the target level. Instructions are rarely worth the paper theyre printed on in my experience.
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Pre-coffee rant aside: I wish you all the best of luck in figuring out the issue. I agree with the consensus that double checking salinity (and alkalinity) would be valuable.
Just returned from my lfs and after double checking my water 1.030 you guys were absolutely correct and I feel like a dope for it being something so simple. I also had mine calibrated while I was there whereas my calibration fluid wont arrive until Thursday and I'd prefer not to pickle the rest of my inhabitants. Thank you guys so much for your help!!I believe it's going to be the salinity as I stated in my last reply, and thank you
You sure your TDS meter is reading correctly? 32 of of the tap is crazy low.Lol, just installed it today
32ppm tap
0ppm membrane
0ppm Di.
It is crazy low for San Diego most of the year. My tds when i lived there (admittedly many years ago) usually ranged between 100 and 450 depending on the time of year.Why is that crazy low? My incoming TAP is only 19TDS(love living where my water is coming from mountain aquifers), only treated for algae with chlorine, and added fluoride from the town.
Do you match ph and alk?This has me stumped. Iv been fighting this problem for over a month now and cant for the life of me figure this one out.
I use Brightwell neomarine salt, I dose aminos about twice a week, just a few drops, my tank is just over a year old parameters as follows
Sg 1.026
Nitrate 20
Po4 0.00
Mg 1500
Added magnesium sulfate shooting for 1450 and overshot it but has no correlation with my coral losses
I dose nothing else I use rodi water 0 tds
I make sure the params. Match and the temp matches and I'm only doing extremely small frequent water changes (1 gal a day). I emptied out, cleaned, rinsed and refilled my holding container with fresh new salt water and still like clockwork everytime I do a water change I have an sps coral either stn or rtn shortly after. Anyone have any ideas????
You need phosphates in order to carbon doseNitrates crept up over the passed few days because I stopped carbon dosing thinking that might have something to do with it but b4 that it was 5
Carbon dosing was the only thing keeping my nitrates in check long term at a steady 5 it wasn't until I stopped that they came up so clearly it's working for nitrates but the question is how to raise po4You need phosphates in order to carbon dose
You can dose. If you run gfo take it offlineCarbon dosing was the only thing keeping my nitrates in check long term at a steady 5 it wasn't until I stopped that they came up so clearly it's working for nitrates but the question is how to raise po4
If you mean water change wise I keep my tank and my new salt water the same I check it b4 I use it if it needs adjusting I use Kent and PH is 8.3 fairly steady with my skimmer line running to outside air.Do you match ph and alk?
I dont run gfo but I do however run a refugium with water lettuceYou can dose. If you run gfo take it offline
Then it sounds more than likely a salinity issue since you are noticing it when you change water. I did the same thing on my first tank. Salinity was way off. I have tried the Hanna but the milwaukee salinity checker has been the most accurate and the easiest to read and calibrate. I do however use Hanna to determine tempIf you mean water change wise I keep my tank and my new salt water the same I check it b4 I use it if it needs adjusting I use Kent and PH is 8.3 fairly steady with my skimmer line running to outside air.

But were the Temps the same with TDS 0 water and calibration fluid? That would cause the difference. I calibrate with 0 RO water all the time with no problems.I had a refractometer reading 1.026 that had been calibrated with 0tds water, after calibrating with the 35ppm fluid I found it was actually 1.031.

