Water Changes In SPS Tanks

I recently switched to IO from the AF Reef salt.

The IO does mix a bit higher (~10dKh) vs the AF Reef Salt (8.3) but the deciding factor for me was shelf stability vice Alkalinity specifically. I have a AWC system set up - through the Neptune DoS - which changes 20 gallons of water per week on a system with a 200 gallon water volume.

That being said, I dose daily, but my alkalinity stays between 9 - 9.3 dKh.

I imagine the key for you would be to find a salt that mixes somewhere around where you want it to so impact would be minimal.
 
I'm using IO salt. I can't claim great success yet, but I also heard from Jason Fox that he only uses IO and does 30% WC every other week. That pretty much ends the discussion for me about switching to a more expensive salt.
 
Yes. Used to be LPS dominated but since nutrients are controllable, I switched to SPS tank. Bought IO salt in small container (no longer in boxes) for salinity adjustment. So far I only used it twice.

SPS pictures please :) are you supplementing anything other than alk/Ca/Mg?
 
Amino, iodide, potassium, iron, strontium, trace elements and flourine.

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My life changed for the better in every way when I started doing automated 1G changes every 6 hours on my 150G total system. I was doing roughly the same amount once a week (20G every Saturday) but everything is so much more stable now. Less two part dosing and my Alk doesn't budge from 8.0-8.2 and I'm going 3 months on this last batch of GFO with my phosphates at .02
 
Just stumbled across this thread... I think people stress out way too much about matching alkalinity of water change water to tank water. If your tank is at 8 dKH, a 10% water change even with 11 dKH water will only raise the alk to 8.3, which I wouldn't consider an "alkalinity spike".
 
Just stumbled across this thread... I think people stress out way too much about matching alkalinity of water change water to tank water. If your tank is at 8 dKH, a 10% water change even with 11 dKH water will only raise the alk to 8.3, which I wouldn't consider an "alkalinity spike".
Some people change more than 10%
 
Some people change more than 10%

Sure, I'm just saying you can do the math for your situation (% change, tank alk, new water alk) and figure out how much the alk will change, and decide if it's worth the trouble of trying to match the new water alk to the tank alk.
 
Right, but in a low nutrient system a 20% change from your example would be a bump of 1 dkh which COULD cause some issues.
 
Right, but in a low nutrient system a 20% change from your example would be a bump of 1 dkh which COULD cause some issues.

Right, so then don't do that. All I'm saying is, instead of assuming you have to switch salts to find something that matches your tank, do the math and see if you are comfortable with what the swing actually would be for your situation.
 
I just use hydrochloric acid to drop the alkalinity to that of my tank. I then let the water mix outside for a few hours to blow off the c02 and pH stabilize after the hydrochloric acid does its thing.

I match alkalinity, pH, salinity, and temperature.
 
Believe me, I've been keeping SPS for some years now and the importance of keeping alkalinity stable has been key. But if you guys are striving at matching alkalinity in newly made saltwater to your system alkalinity, why aren't you matching calcium and magnesium as well?
 
Believe me, I've been keeping SPS for some years now and the importance of keeping alkalinity stable has been key. But if you guys are striving at matching alkalinity in newly made saltwater to your system alkalinity, why aren't you matching calcium and magnesium as well?

Calcium and Magnesium don't seem to change at all for me. Both are very high.
 
Bingo mattrg02 with the muriatic acid. I'll get a new batch of salt ( reef crystals ). test the alk which is always higher. Lower it with muriatic acid to match my tanks alk. Thats it
The formula is Alkalinity of new water minus desired alkalinity multiplied by the number of gallons, then multiply by .123. This give you the ml's of acid to add. I never have any spikes when performing water changes.
 
I do 50 gallon water changes weekly on my 210 gallons SPS tank , I check all my parameters before I change the water to insure they are the same. I use Instant Ocean reef crystals with no problems . I do have a calcium reactor and a Kalkwasser stirrer which help keep my levels steady. Alk 11.2 Cal 450 and mag 1500. I feed phyto feast 3 times weekly twice at night and once during the day. I do dose acropower 5 ml daily. The growth is good. I have been doing this for 2 years with little or no problems ,
Off topic question but do you feel acro power helps your color?
 
I recently switched to IO from the AF Reef salt.

The IO does mix a bit higher (~10dKh) vs the AF Reef Salt (8.3) but the deciding factor for me was shelf stability vice Alkalinity specifically. I have a AWC system set up - through the Neptune DoS - which changes 20 gallons of water per week on a system with a 200 gallon water volume.

That being said, I dose daily, but my alkalinity stays between 9 - 9.3 dKh.

I imagine the key for you would be to find a salt that mixes somewhere around where you want it to so impact would be minimal.

IO with your water change setup looks like a fine option to me.

I've been using IO for 17 years on my Acropora Dominant systems. Water changes approx 7-10% a week. With Randys two part dosing I keep alk is at 8.0=8.5. I prefer this alk level, but you can run any level you want by adjusting your alk dosing. My Mg levels stay rock solid at 1300ppm.

I don't dose any trace elements or coral additives

You can go here to my tank thread for many pictures--
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/big-e-rimless-80g-sps.206607/page-8#post-3970442
 

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