Water changes with Acropora domination

I’m just trying to figure out how far you can really push some of these more finicky Acro’s w/o them RTN/STN’ing. I know stability is key, but I’ve heard of guys doing nearly 100% water changes with Acro dominated tanks and they pull it off. If I tried that, I’d likely see some RTN. What’s the secret?
I’m lazy didn’t read all of the responses. The secrets to all things Acro is slow and moderation. If you do larger water changes match your Alk. Bearing in mind that large percentage changes also causes a rapid drop in nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate.
 
Well, I don’t disagree with you that a continuous water change is the bet way to go, but for many, it’s just not feasible. I put my tank, and I assume a lot of others do too, in one of the most visible spots in my house where I can enjoy it the most. That spot happens to be nowhere near a closet, drain, or water source. I m not cool with hoses going across my main living area.

Add me to that list. My little 90g is in the middle of our family room. I had to negotiate that size with my wife, and if I even mentioned a big tank of water sitting next to it I'm pretty sure we'd have a problem. My little 5g ATO reservoir barely fits underneath next to my sump. If I had a 200-300g tank, I'd plan ahead and have a way to do automatic water changes. I'd LOVE to do them. But most of us with little tanks, it's just not possible. I do 10g/week the old fashioned way, with 5g pales.
 
S T A B I L I T Y has more meaning than expressed. I agree on alk as well as MAG and salt used as well as lighting type and intensity

Are you saying match the mag too? I try to myself.

When you say lighting intensity...do you think lower or higher light would be more likely to STN?
 
My current tank I do 3gal/10% every other week. Its a 18" cube nano. Did every week for 8 months. 6 months later doing every other did not notice any difference.
I think most people dont do daily changes because the tank is in the living room with no space.
Currently setting up a 120. Would love to do daily but im one of the people with the tank in the living room with no available space to set it up.

I’m one of the people that’s “too poor” for two stenner pumps. :-)
 
I’m lazy didn’t read all of the responses. The secrets to all things Acro is slow and moderation. If you do larger water changes match your Alk. Bearing in mind that large percentage changes also causes a rapid drop in nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate.
IMO, ALK is the most important and quickly followed by NO3 and PO4. When I think back to several RTN events I’ve had in the past...I can say without a doubt that my Nitrate and Phosphate were depleted.
 
If you are going to do large water changes, then you will need to match the following from my experience.
Temp
Alk
Salinity
Thats the top 3 I would try to match.

Personally I dont perform water changes to replenish parameters. But thats another thread. LOL. Good luck.
 
It’s weird because I’ve tested every single parameter and/or common element that we keep in check for most reef aquaria, and they can be perfect. The numbers are all good.

Yet, for some reason you get this feeling like the tank could use a water change because maybe a few corals have not be looking their best. Then you do a 20-50% water change and the tank seems to really love it. Corals look fantastic the next day.

I think that sometimes our tanks begin to build up toxins more than we might think. I’m a fan of Triton, but I think that sometimes our reefs need a refresh despite our testing numbers.

At the end of the day I think logic says if the numbers are good then leave things alone (don’t change water), but I’m still not convinced toxins aren’t present. It may be something as simple as 2 acropora’s sitting next to each other fighting for dominance and releasing chemicals into the water column. It could be two palythoa who want to nuke the entire tank because they can sense a particular coral they don’t like. Who knows.

I’d cut my right arm off to know exactly why some Acropora STN while the others around it are thriving. I’ve come to the conclusion that the most common reasons are...

1. Big Alk swings
2. Depleted nutrients
3. Inadequate flow
4. Too much/little light
5. UNSTABLE YOUNG REEFS
6. A pest of some sort eating the coral
 
With acros i have noticed a huge disparity in survival rates between maricultured pieces and those cultured in tanks. I slowly started decreasing my alkalinity to get closer to NSW to see if i start getting better results with mariculture pieces.

Back to the original post ordered an AutoAqua AWS for when I move.
 
Well, I don’t disagree with you that a continuous water change is the bet way to go, but for many, it’s just not feasible. I put my tank, and I assume a lot of others do too, in one of the most visible spots in my house where I can enjoy it the most. That spot happens to be nowhere near a closet, drain, or water source. I m not cool with hoses going across my main living area.

Same here. Picked up a Dos and will pump water from my garage up into the ceiling and attic across to the tank and down in between studs and rafter to behind the tank. Back up from tank to ac drain in the attic. Dos can handle it.

A lot of work but alleviates constant hoses in the main living area.
 
With acros i have noticed a huge disparity in survival rates between maricultured pieces and those cultured in tanks. I slowly started decreasing my alkalinity to get closer to NSW to see if i start getting better results with mariculture pieces.

Back to the original post ordered an AutoAqua AWS for when I move.
Mari pieces do best when put under high par from a good light source after they have been shipped over, even dipping can mess up a good colony if it's stressed. I like to keep them in a separate tank for observation and dip after they have aclimated. Matching alk won't hurt but I don't think it's the main thing to worry about. Sorry I had to chip in, back to the original topic.
 

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