Water changes..

reefchaser

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What do you need to put in your ro/di water when you do water changes? I have a fowlr tank with.

Blenny
Two damsels
Chrome
Two lemon crabs
Snails and hermit crabs
 
I am a little confused about this question, but you need the sea salt (Made for aquariums). You don't need anything special, especially for a FOWLR. Something like Instant Ocean would be great.
 
Just add your Salt, let it stir up for 24hours prior to use.
 
I didn't know if you put iodine or replenish or anything else? I know about salt. I should of explained a little better.

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Nothing except a good salt mix.
If you don't have a good test kit for all those other things, use them on a regular basis and know for sure you have a demand for a particular element and that it is in fact necessary then never put it in your tank period.
It is very easy to get a reef system out of balance and a real pain to get it back. Use a good salt mix and do regular small water changes and you will be fine and have a stable system. Start adding other stuff without knowing what is in it specifically and that you need it and you will be in trouble. Leave all that stuff on the shelf at the LFS where it belongs.
 
I always put Prime in my fresh ro/di and salt water as a precaution. It certainly isn't necessary though.
 
Why would you contaminate good pure RO/DI with Prime or anything else? Doesn't benefit anything.
 
I didn't know if you put iodine or replenish or anything else? I know about salt. I should of explained a little better.

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As DesertRat has said, you don't need to do anything to RO/DI water after you've added salt to it. As Reefing Madness has mentioned.. it is a very good idea to mix it for about 24 hours (Or more), and in addition, I recommend using a heater to keep it the same temp as your aquarium.
 
Keep it simple, 0 TDS RODI water and a good salt mix. For a FOWLR tank, I'm sure most of the salts would work just fine. No need to get fancy salts.
 
Good RO/DI with a good DI section removes all traces of chloramines no problem.

The 24 hour thing is not a necessity with todays salt mixes and has been tested and documented to be unnecessary. For 35 years now I have mixed my new saltwater immediately before using, as long as the temperature, salinity and pH closely approximate the display it is safe to add. Additional time does noting.
 
Good RO/DI with a good DI section removes all traces of chloramines no problem.

The 24 hour thing is not a necessity with todays salt mixes and has been tested and documented to be unnecessary. For 35 years now I have mixed my new saltwater immediately before using, as long as the temperature, salinity and pH closely approximate the display it is safe to add. Additional time does noting.
+1 Some salt takes a bit longer than others to dissolve, but once it does, there is no need to wait longer before using.
 
Why would you contaminate good pure RO/DI with Prime or anything else? Doesn't benefit anything.

I have always done it because it was just the way I was taught and haven't given it a second thought until this thread. I've been doing it for years as a precaution. I also stated it isn't necessary. Because of this thread I may stop using it...lol I'm not sure what else there is to explain.
 
Why would you contaminate good pure RO/DI with Prime or anything else? Doesn't benefit anything.

+1

I don't know why everyone keeps recommending that stuff. Every time i see a post on fb I'm our reef club about anything bad happening the first thing everyone says is dump some prime in.

I don't think I would ever want to use it. Just seems like your adding another variable to the equation when you're having problems already.

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Well, thanks for everyone sharing. You've made me think about my process and I will stop using it. I promised myself I was gonna do the K.I.S.S. method and this is one thing I hadn't thought about. Thanks!:fish:
 
Good RO/DI with a good DI section removes all traces of chloramines no problem.

The 24 hour thing is not a necessity with todays salt mixes and has been tested and documented to be unnecessary. For 35 years now I have mixed my new saltwater immediately before using, as long as the temperature, salinity and pH closely approximate the display it is safe to add. Additional time does noting.


Ha! Tell that to the club in Dallas! I agree with you, but one of the sponsors/bod members warns everyone DI resin won't remove chloramines. With your background in water treatment,it would be nice if you could clear that up.
 
Chloramines are a blend of chlorine and ammonia, it is used to maintain residual chlorine levels in the drinking water distribution system since it is more stable than free chlorine alone.

Since TFC RO membranes are damaged by even slight amounts of chlorine, to safely remove chloramines you need two things, carbon for the chlorine portion before the RO membrane and since RO membranes are not particularly effective at all forms of ammonia (ammonia, nitrates and nitrires) good DI resin for the ammonia portion after the membrane. Many will tell you you need special catalytic carbons and it removes everything but that simly is not true. The carbon does not remove the ammonia which is the harder to remove piece. Any of todays modern extruded carbon blocks in a 1 micron or smaller size is more than sufficient for the chlorine in chloramines at normal residual levels and a good 20 oz. vertical full size mixed bed nuclear grade DI canister and cartridge is almost manditory and is by far the more important piece of the puzzle. You don't want nor need two carbons, granular carbons or anything else, just one 1 micron or smaller carbon block protected by a 1 micron or smaller sediment filter so its billions of tiny microscopic pores where the chlorine is adsorbed do not get fouled or plugged.
 
Chloramines are a blend of chlorine and ammonia, it is used to maintain residual chlorine levels in the drinking water distribution system since it is more stable than free chlorine alone.

Since TFC RO membranes are damaged by even slight amounts of chlorine, to safely remove chloramines you need two things, carbon for the chlorine portion before the RO membrane and since RO membranes are not particularly effective at all forms of ammonia (ammonia, nitrates and nitrires) good DI resin for the ammonia portion after the membrane. Many will tell you you need special catalytic carbons and it removes everything but that simly is not true. The carbon does not remove the ammonia which is the harder to remove piece. Any of todays modern extruded carbon blocks in a 1 micron or smaller size is more than sufficient for the chlorine in chloramines at normal residual levels and a good 20 oz. vertical full size mixed bed nuclear grade DI canister and cartridge is almost manditory and is by far the more important piece of the puzzle. You don't want nor need two carbons, granular carbons or anything else, just one 1 micron or smaller carbon block protected by a 1 micron or smaller sediment filter so its billions of tiny microscopic pores where the chlorine is adsorbed do not get fouled or plugged.

I was going to say, chlorine destroys ro membranes so there's no way you could have chlorine/chloramine in final water if the ro is actually still working.. Lol

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