water flow
- Thread starter saleen385
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KoleTang
Valuable Member
What sort of pump are you putting on the return? I'm thinking just that may be enough to stir up the water and eliminate dead spots.
If not, you could look in to a Hydor Nano. Hydor Pico Evolution Mini Pump - 800
Aquarium Water Circulation and Powerheads: Hydor Pico Evo-Mag Circulation Pump
http://www.bigalspets.com/pico-evol...son+Shopping&gclid=CKedq4jCsbwCFcVFMgod9SwAqA
If not, you could look in to a Hydor Nano. Hydor Pico Evolution Mini Pump - 800
Aquarium Water Circulation and Powerheads: Hydor Pico Evo-Mag Circulation Pump
http://www.bigalspets.com/pico-evol...son+Shopping&gclid=CKedq4jCsbwCFcVFMgod9SwAqA
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saleen385
Active Member
I've had this tank since the mid 80's. I was a dealer for Tennecor and they gave this out as a display. I would like to do a sebae nem and gold stripe maroon clowns with a small piece of live rock and live sand. As far as lighting it has a small florescent but I know it needs more light for the nem. I was thinking of going with an ecoxotic 16w panarama pro LED 12k white with 445nm blue.
Jim
Jim
Trex
Valuable Member
By "sabae" do you mean H. crispa, or H. malu? An H. crispa will get way too big for that tank -- the last one I had (( about 12 years ago )) took up 1/3 of a 75.
A pair of maroons? IMO/E, they would get too big for that tank.
A pair of maroons? IMO/E, they would get too big for that tank.
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saleen385
Active Member
Yep that is what I was thinking, saw a white with blue tips thought that would look good with the maroons. Guess I'll have to wait on those till I can get a 120gal. set up.
What would you recommend for live stock?
Thanks,
Jim
Trex
Valuable Member
I would avoid any white "sabaes" (( or any white hosting anemone for that matter )); they are bleached.
If you really want an anemone/clown for that tank, I would look at an H. malu (( stay relatively small )) and a pair of Percs or Ocellaris.
If you really want an anemone/clown for that tank, I would look at an H. malu (( stay relatively small )) and a pair of Percs or Ocellaris.
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saleen385
Active Member
Update
well little update i ordered a Eheim compact + 3000 pump, ecoxotic panorama pro LED light for the tank. Hopefully it will all arrive this week and I can get some live sand, small piece of LR and water from the LFS this weekend and get it up and running.
Jim
well little update i ordered a Eheim compact + 3000 pump, ecoxotic panorama pro LED light for the tank. Hopefully it will all arrive this week and I can get some live sand, small piece of LR and water from the LFS this weekend and get it up and running.
Jim
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saleen385
Active Member
Trex, thanks for the info, I will look for a couple of those clowns. As for the Nem I will wait and see if lighting will be enough don't want to buy something and watch it die because I don't have the right equipment to keep it healthy.
On another note, pump came in Friday. Saturday went to Triad Reef Critters(LFS) picked up the sand, had intentions of filling the tank with water and check to make sure the pump worked and there were no leaks.
That didn't work out, the pump is really tight in there, went to Lowe's and Home Depot to get some 3/4 hose neither of them had any.
I might have to put a bulk head fitting on the back of the sump and use the pump externally, will have to see how it works once I get some water in there.
Jim
Trex
Valuable Member
Is that "live" rock or dry rock?
I have always used live rock, and because of that I have always done water changes during the cycle. The reason being is that I wanted to limit the ammonia spike, so that the life on the live rock has a chance to actually live through the cycle. IMO/E, it doesn't seem to extend the cycle any, preserves life on the rock, and gives you a steadier bacteria level.
Basically, I have always treated the cycling tank as if it was a fully running tank, water changes, skimmer running, phosban/carbon, etc.
Of course there are several different ways to cycle a tank, the above is the way that has worked for me with live rock (( have never used dry rock, which would be a different beast altogether. )).
I have always used live rock, and because of that I have always done water changes during the cycle. The reason being is that I wanted to limit the ammonia spike, so that the life on the live rock has a chance to actually live through the cycle. IMO/E, it doesn't seem to extend the cycle any, preserves life on the rock, and gives you a steadier bacteria level.
Basically, I have always treated the cycling tank as if it was a fully running tank, water changes, skimmer running, phosban/carbon, etc.
Of course there are several different ways to cycle a tank, the above is the way that has worked for me with live rock (( have never used dry rock, which would be a different beast altogether. )).
That's gonna be a lot of flow on that lil tank! 0 head loss? I think your going to find it to be to much.
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saleen385
Active Member
Trex, yes it is live rock.
Should I put a piece of shrimp or something to help the cycle along?
I do have a valve on the uniloc to slow down the flow
Thanks,
Jim
The valve may slow water flow but wont slow the pump. Have you thought about heat transfer from the pump? Why not just get the right size pump for your tank?
Trex
Valuable Member
