Water parameters dont make sense....

The tank has been set up since September. Lol far from New. I went through that stage a while ago. . Why are the mysis not good? What should I feed them? I don't like the flakes or anything like that. Plus I also like feeding my duncans the mysis. They enjoy them :)
Not trying to be a a hole …..
It almost seams the only way I can manage nutrients is to be mindful of what I’m putting in . And export that amount after processed .
If one week someone feeds a
More than I’m aware of nutrients are slightly
Higher than expected

a while ago I couldn’t understand … I went from a 90 gal to a 230

the 90 gal always had high nitrates ( 30-50ppm ) sometimes extremely
Higher

the new 230 had 0ppm and I couldn’t get them to come up at all and couldn’t lower phosphates as they were high (2 ppm )
The only way was to dose nitrates up to a balanced level . As soon as that was established phosphate levels dropped to .03ppm
 
Yea, the rock actually makes a lot of sense because the rocks the cyano is growing on, they're new live rock. All the rest I've had for a while. I didn't know live rock could bring phos. And also, feed them mysis 1 time per week, but what should I feed in the mean time?
 
I second diatoms.

I'd suggest rinsing your frozen food well in RODI water, then discarding that water before feeding - that could cut down on some of the nutrient addition. Cut down on how much you feed maybe too.

Lanthanum chloride works very well to bind and precipitate PO4, but it needs to be done gradually, just a few small drops at a time and tested daily. GFO may be a better way to address it. I definitely had the aluminum-based stuff cause problems with corals. Also, you DON'T want to bottom out PO4 - I aim for around 0.1ppm. Doesn't look too bad otherwise - I don't see hair or bubble algae. S-L-O-W is best...

Did you ever confirm that Mg number?
 
Ppl used to say the solution to pollution was dilution. E.g. more water volume. Lol.
Glad ppl are watching chemistry more so now days and dosing in smaller increments ect.
In the past we would dump 1/4 or half a bottle and shrug our shoulders. Lol.
I specifically remember doing this with flatworm exit. Lol. Like eh what could it hurt. I already have plague portions or planaria. Lol.
D
 
Run carbon or activated charcoal. Chemi pure blue or elite is the next step up.
Gfo addition with the carbon is a step step up from that.
You run a protein skimmer or reactor? Whats your filtration?!
-d
 
I suspect some false readings
I would suggest taking a good water sample to a trusted LFS that does Not use API test kits and see what readings they come up with and to compare with yours
 
Depends what you’re feeding …
Some Pellets or flakes can have all the nutrients needed .
I have always read references comparing mysis and brine shrimp to a strict McDonald’s diet .

@vetteguy53081 has posted nutrient requirements in many other posts .

are you rinsing the frozen cubes and dumping the thaw water and shrimp in the tank ?
If
You’re open to a experiment …
Feed mysis only 1x per week assuring its entire amount is consumed by fish and corals

perhaps over feeding is only adding fuel
For algae or Cyanobacteria to grow
Feed foods such as spirulina brine shrimp
Mysis shrimp
LRS fish frenzy
Small plankton
Formula 1 flake and frozen

add garlic extract and selcon vitamins for stamina and immunity health
 
Water parameters are as follows:
PH:7.6
NITRATE: 5
PHOS: .4
ALK: 9.8
CALCIUM: 470
MAG: 1840

IM NOT DOSING ANYTHING...HELPPP!!

How are you measuring your salinity? Do you have another means of verifying it? Could easily be explained if your salinity is actually higher than you think.... would cause a bunch of your parameters to read high.
 
This looks like a ugly stage of a very new setup .
the problem with phosphates , water changes alone have little effect of permanent removing them . Could be the frozen shrimp adding causing the elevated phosphates.
Phosphate removing media such as rowaphos works amazing .
That looks like cyano over diatoms
Reduce white light intensity or turn off white for a few days and add a pouch of chemipure elite
Additionally add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria during the day for one week to compete with this costing
Light gives it energy, so removing bright intensity will deprive it of this energy
 
That looks like cyano over diatoms
Reduce white light intensity or turn off white for a few days and add a pouch of chemipure elite
Additionally add 1.5ml of liquid bacteria during the day for one week to compete with this costing
Light gives it energy, so removing bright intensity will deprive it of this energy
So turn off my fluval? that has the white. By orphek is blue light. But high intensity
 

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