Water parameters

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CJB

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Hello all,

I started the saltwater part of the hobby about 5 months ago with a 32 gallon bio cube. Everything has been going well so I decided to start adding in corals about a month ago. I ordered some montis online from TSA.

They did very well for about a month and even had some growth and now about two weeks ago all of a sudden they are browning out and some are fading and even bleaching. I don’t dose any supplements into my tank, I’ve been following a weekly 15-20% water change schedule. I emailed TSA and they said to check parameters so I did. I purchased a Hanna checker and it read 163ppm. Confused I went to my LFS for help.

My LFS I have been going to from the beginning tested my water and they say everything seems good S/G:34 alk: 8 ph: 8.1ca:420 nitrite:0 nitrates: 10-20 and ammonia: 0 phosphates between .01-.08 mg: 1150

So with everything checking out with them I decided to turn to another LFS to get a second opinion after testing my water they told me that my alk was 15 they asked me where I get my water and I told them another LFS. Then they said the water they might be giving me might be higher in alk. but all the other parameters were the same from the other test from the other LFS besides the alk. The guy at the new LFS told me to go with 15% water changes every other day until it gets back on track I’ve been doing that for a week now. I went back to them and a totally different guy tested again saying my alk went up to a 17. I told them I checked with a Hanna checker and they said it could be reading inaccurate. They use API’s titration test for their customers. Really picking my brain because I am utterly confused, I checked my water and it read around a 160ppm. I checked water that my first LFS gives me 180ppm I checked water from the new LFS 120ppm.

I really don’t know what’s going on I’m stuck between a rock and hard place. I am trying to find out who is lying to me, is my Hanna checker actually messed up. No where else to turn I joined the forum here for knowledge and better understanding of certain processes because even with my own research I am having trouble.

Everything else in my tank is doing great. Pictures are attached.

Other need to know tank equipment and factors.

Kessil A360x lighting runs for about 14 hours.
100watt heater
Mechanical filter: Double layered Intank foam
Biological filter: around 2lbs of bio home marine.
Chemical filter: cemipureblue and a pack of purigen as the last layer before it hits the refugium.
Refugium: good sized piece of red OGO 1lb of bio home marine.
Filter: SICCE 1.5

livestock- 1 scooter Blenny, 1 sail fin blenny,
1 coris wrasse, 1 springer damsel, 1 royal gramma, 2 clowns , 1 citron goby, 3 shrimp 1 conch snail all my corals are in the pictures.
Assorted amount of hermits and snails.

If any more info is needed I’ll be happy to provide. Thank you for reading this far.

My questions are

Is it possible to have an alk level of 17 but all other parameters are fine?

With alk being that high if it is that high how much time would I likely have for a crash?

2BBDAC52-6C08-4DCE-97E4-BB0A393AE3AF.jpeg 115FEDCE-762A-4C0F-B3C7-8C0FF8EE5BB9.jpeg 94E0A131-310D-47EF-BF40-8B04F06E46B0.jpeg 7DC415A6-3BE3-4FE9-8EF4-EE98F6BA6090.jpeg A1759229-72BB-47AB-9F70-E8B877C4A7A2.jpeg 9195B8A2-4B70-4EAC-B233-F8B643548C3A.jpeg 9DC1D8E1-5E70-4ACC-9ABB-C570113E0979.jpeg 6F0917E8-4C23-4B69-B7C7-AB1A34C41C29.jpeg
 
Around 32 lbs of caribsea liferock, Temp is a steady 76-78 degrees F. I have about a 2 and a half inch sand bed very fine sand that I swirl on the surface when I do water changes. About a month ago I dosed coraline Algae into the tank from algae barn pink and purple fusion. I feed 1 cube of mysis shrimp and a half cube of frozen cyclopods. My salinity is a 1.024.

With an ALK level that high would the rest of my tank appear the way it is?

I added 2 fish if my ALK was supposedly this high wouldn’t the parameter shock kill them?
 
Last edited:
I am guessing that you are using the PPM Hanna ALK checker. I may be a little confused but If your water is reading 160 PPM that is only 8.96 DKH which is a great spot to be at. If you test it again right now what is your reading?

I would recommend that you get a Hanna HI755-11 Standard so that you have something to test against. you can pick one up at BRS or another similar online vendor.

Let us know what your test results are right now.
 
The purigen is competing with the chemipure. I’d pull the purigen Unless you have phosphate issues
When checking LFS water which I’d bet is high in alk (main source of your problem), check the tds of the water which too may be high

salinity target is 1.025
Temp 76-79
Ph 8.1-8.3
Alk8-9
Ca 450
Mag 1300
Ammonia .03

moderate light and water flow should be sufficient
 
I am guessing that you are using the PPM Hanna ALK checker. I may be a little confused but If your water is reading 160 PPM that is only 8.96 DKH which is a great spot to be at. If you test it again right now what is your reading?

I would recommend that you get a Hanna HI755-11 Standard so that you have something to test against. you can pick one up at BRS or another similar online vendor.

Let us know what your test results are right now.

Hey thanks for the response, it is in fact a Hanna ppm alk checker I checked last night with a ppm of 180. Last night I stoped home grabbed a sample and I visited my LFS and they tested with an API titration test and some how it was at a 17dkh.
 
The purigen is competing with the chemipure. I’d pull the purigen Unless you have phosphate issues
When checking LFS water which I’d bet is high in alk (main source of your problem), check the tds of the water which too may be high

salinity target is 1.025
Temp 76-79
Ph 8.1-8.3
Alk8-9
Ca 450
Mag 1300
Ammonia .03

moderate light and water flow should be sufficient

Okay I will pull the purigen out to see if that helps, I think I am going to start making my own saltwater. To eliminate this problem. Thanks for the reply. LFS uses fritz pro salt blue box.
 
Hey all quick update,

So after bringing my hanna checker into the store. The checker was in fact correct. The api titration test they were using was off, almost double. I’ve decided it’s a mineral and nutrient issue so I am going to dose a little magnesium and calcium feed a little more, get an air stone in there to take some carbon dioxide out of the water because it’s in my bedroom a lot of breathing and talking in there. Add some aragonite mixed in with my sand and change my lighting schedule because it’s around a 14hr cycle. Do you guys have a schedule I can use that you use on your tanks? I have a kessil A360x.

thank you for the help!
 
This is my lighting schedule on my red sea reefled 50 I run 11 hrs on my whites and blues and 4hr moon light my tank seems to be loving it this is red seas recommend light sch. I just modified the moon to be a little brighter
 
Here is a long drawn out update everything is doing great and growing very well despite my not so great start here’s a picture
 

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