Water quality

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USMA36

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I bought a 4 stage 75gpd ro/di unit. I just want to make sure it is good enough for my water. I get my water from a community well. This is the most up to date report. In the winter my water is pretty cold as I live in the mountains of NEPA. I haven't checked it, but I'd guess water temp is in the lower 40's.

IMG_1982.PNG
 
Here's what I would do,get a tds meter they have hand held on ebay I use for like 10 $another thing is water pressure your rodi has to have a certain amount of pressure to filter properly,sometime ppl need a booster to output water in rodi system.I don't think the temp is going to effect it much.but if you use a tds meter it will show you how the water quality is .the rodi should strip out a lot .after it filters u should get.000 readings
 
Looks better then mine. I'm on city with a TDs of 140. The one big thing you have to look for is chlorimines. And I'm pretty sure that's a city water issue. Stay ontop of your sediment filter and you'll be good. Maybe get 2 sediment filters... .5 and a 1 micron. Temp will effect your membranes.
 
A good ATC temperature compensated handheld TDS meter is your best friend when it comes to a RO/DI. Use it on a regular basis to test your tap TDS, the RO only TDS before it reaches the DI and the final RO/DI TDS. This will tell you how well both the RO membrane and the DI resin are doing and when to change them. It will not tell you when to change the sediment and carbon block filters though so the easiest thing is write the date on the unit or bracket somewhere and change the sediment and carbon block every 6 months, making sure you disinfect the system at least annually.

Temperature has a huge effect on membranes but colder water actually treats better than warmer water so your RO only TDS will be lower and your DI will last longer. The downside is it slows production. At 50 psi inlet pressure and 45 degrees F water temp you can expect 39 GPD out of that 75 GPD membrane. If it were warmer you would get more water but the TDS would be a little higher and the DI would not last as long. I would take the colder water any time over warmer water and either suffer with the lower production, which really isn't a big deal as you make water up ahead of time and store it in sealed buckets of trashcans, or you buy a RO booster pump and raise the pressure to overcome the lower temperature. 39 GPD is still a lot of water though, just let the system run and fill a Brute trashcan.
 
+1 on booster pump if your pressure is under 60 PSI. But don't get your pressure over the membrane's maximum operating pressure. You will actually force through dissolved solids.

My TDS of untreated water is 300 ppm. My treated RO is 4 ppm with a new filter. After a year it creeps up to about 10 ppm. My RI gets rid of what my RO misses.
 
Most membranes are rated for 150+psi so overpressure is not an issue, the limiting factor is housings and fittings. I have run my Aquatec 8800 booster at 95-100 psi for the last 8.5 years with zero issues. Softened tap TDS is 550-800 and RO only TDS is 2-3 so around 99.4% rejection rate on average. I change the DI when I start to see a TDS other than 0 and DI lasts over a year. The RO membrane is the original and 8.5 years old and still running strong. Softened water makes a huge difference when it comes to RO membrane life.
 
Thank you everyone. I'll pick up a tds meter and share my results.
 
I bought a 4 stage 75gpd ro/di unit. I just want to make sure it is good enough for my water. I get my water from a community well. This is the most up to date report. In the winter my water is pretty cold as I live in the mountains of NEPA. I haven't checked it, but I'd guess water temp is in the lower 40's.

IMG_1982.PNG

My city list radiation. Should I be worried? Lol
 

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