Hi - I am new to saltwater aquariums and have been doing some research, read the setting up page that was posted on here and still have some questions specific to our water situation. We have well water (very hard water) and I know that is not going to work to use directly, but my concern is if it will be good enough by using the RO/DI system everyone suggests to use. I'm guessing the RO system that we have put in for drinking water would work (we don't use it much anymore, drink spring water now), but I do have some concern if it is worth it or not to do. We have an approx. 180 gallon plus tank (not sure on exactly how much it holds, could be more, going off of a guesstimate since we have had the tank in storage for some time). I'm thinking this would take a lot of filtering on the RO/DI system's part after we switch out all the filters since I'm sure they have not been switched out in a long time, probably adding in the DI part because I don't think we have that. So I'm wondering if it would be cheaper in the long run to just forget about what we have here at the house and just go buy water and haul it back. The worst would be the start up. I'm planning on putting in at least 100 lbs. of rock to offset the amount of water we will need and hopefully will make it look better anyway! I'm wondering if filtered city water could work as well, filling up 5 gallon bottles. I'm thinking I would need to test the water to find out if it could work. Any kind of water testing kit you suggest for this? I'm guessing I'm probably missing something, but as you can tell I'm at the planning stages of making all this work and will hopefully be up and running soon, once I get all these little specifics figured out! Thanks!
Water questions
- Thread starter KristenJoy
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eatbreakfast
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In the long run using a ro/di unit will be well worth it.
A tds meter is the best way to measure how the unit is handling the well water.
By having ro set up you will have water available should an emergency arise.
A tds meter is the best way to measure how the unit is handling the well water.
By having ro set up you will have water available should an emergency arise.
redfishbluefish
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Without a second thought, you need an RO/DI unit. As mentioned, the one you have will most likely be just fine by adding a DI unit. As a minimum, change out the sediment and carbon block(s) and you'll be good to go. Remember, you'll need a constant supply of RO/DI water for making fresh saltwater for water changes and also using RO/DI for top-off. I only have a 90 and I lose 1 to 1 1/2 gallons a day. It will easily pay for itself.
Oh, and TDS is all you need to test the RO/DI water. Not sure were you're located, but CO2 can also be an issue with some aquifers....if present, it will eat through your DI resin very fast.
Oh, and TDS is all you need to test the RO/DI water. Not sure were you're located, but CO2 can also be an issue with some aquifers....if present, it will eat through your DI resin very fast.
Great! Thanks for all your help! So it sounds like I might be able to find out my CO2 in the water, my location is central Texas hill country, outside of Austin area. Will have to check and see what aquifer we might be drawing out of. I will be able to tell if my DI resin is eaten through fast though, right?
redfishbluefish
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If you have access to measuring pH, that could also tell you. Measure pH of fresh drawn water. Bubble over night. Test pH again. If you notice a change in pH, you have a CO2 problem. CO2 causes the water to be more acidic. Bubbling releases the CO2, raising the pH.
redfishbluefish
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To do the test, a little air pump, some tubing and an aerator stone.
If you know your pH and alkalinity you can use this Nomograph to estimate your dissolved CO2 levels:
http://spectrapure.com/frequently-asked-questions#calcc02
One issue common with users of domestic wells is the well system or booster system pressure switch is often set at around 35 psi which is sufficient for domestic use but not to efficiently run a RO or RO/DI system which require a minimum of 40 psi and 60-80 psi is better. You can add a RO booster pump which is around $140 and a better idea than turning you well system pressure up and causing the pump to cycle more frequently.
I have found over the years, when a RO or RO/DI system has been sitting unused, it is almost always cheaper to buy a new system than to replace everything including the RO membrane and flow restrictor. You can buy a new reef quality RO/DI for $125 while it would cost more than that to replace your sediment filter, carbon block, RO membrane and flow restrictor and add a DI filter and pressure gauge to what you have.
http://spectrapure.com/frequently-asked-questions#calcc02
One issue common with users of domestic wells is the well system or booster system pressure switch is often set at around 35 psi which is sufficient for domestic use but not to efficiently run a RO or RO/DI system which require a minimum of 40 psi and 60-80 psi is better. You can add a RO booster pump which is around $140 and a better idea than turning you well system pressure up and causing the pump to cycle more frequently.
I have found over the years, when a RO or RO/DI system has been sitting unused, it is almost always cheaper to buy a new system than to replace everything including the RO membrane and flow restrictor. You can buy a new reef quality RO/DI for $125 while it would cost more than that to replace your sediment filter, carbon block, RO membrane and flow restrictor and add a DI filter and pressure gauge to what you have.
Ok, this is helping a lot! But the more I research this the more I find I may need. I see a lot of holding tanks the RO/DI water is put into after it has been made, seems like a lot of larger tanks do this holding tank. I'm guessing I may have to go this route, if so, what would you suggest I then put it in to make into saltwater and then do I just need to get a pump to pump it into the tank? A little confused on all this since I'm not seeing much on all these steps anywhere, just that it seems to be done a lot!
Many reefers use 32 gallon Rubbermaid Brute trashcans. They are food safe and you can get both a wheel kit and snug fitting lids for them. One to store RO/DI water in and one to mix and store new saltwater in. With the wheels you can store it out of the way then move it near the reef when you are ready for a water change or tank maintenance.
