water storage

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I doubt that a washed and rinsed Brute can provides even 1% of the phosphate present in the foods you feed.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I have tested and seen phosphates at .5ppm. I don’t think it’s the can or the plastic but the gunk that seems to form in it... maybe due to not using a powerhead??

How are you proposing that phosphate got into the can?

 

[stevef22]

Thanks Randy. I think washed is the key see pics of my cans. How do I prevent that from building up as I washed with vinegar only 2 months ago, 24x7 powerhead?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The washing I mentioned was to remove mold release agents, bird poop from the store, etc. it should not need, and doubt the water benefits from ongoing cleaning when in use. Organisms growing on the inside aren’t going to be a net source of phosphate, but rather a sink as they accumulate it.

 

[chema]

I bet the phosphates come from the white vinegar you use to clean the container. Some white vinegars I bought had sky high phosphates.
Try to use diluted acetic acid instead of that vinegar. 10% acetic acid works great.

 

[TheGreatWave]

Usually phosphate in the Brute means it's time to service the RO/DI.

Test the output of the RO/DI and compare that to the Brute.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Also bear in mind that a value of 0.05 ppm phosphate in ro/di top off is totally inconsequential since foods add on the order of 100 times as much each day.

 

[TheGreatWave]

I thought it was 0.5?

Anyhow that is when I changed my filters last when the phosphate started showing up in the new salt mix at around the same levels I would normally maintain in my tank.

 

[stevef22]

Yes it’s 0.5ppm (not .05, tested on Hanna high range). I just cleaned everything this morning my ro/di is 0 tds and my ro/do is just tested at 0.7ppm.

Granted the HR tester has an accuracy of +/- 1ppm but I needed the HR version as my tank phosphates were over 5ppm, yes over 5.0, and double checked via a triton test. I’ve been battling that and it’s under 3ppm now so trying to rule out all sources as I get it lower. I think I need the non-HR tester now to better test, as the ro/di water I just tested came right off the output into a brand new plastic cup.

Note my tank is almost 6 years old with mostly the original fish but it was neglected for a while when my kid was born. I fed the fish but went months and months without water changes.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I thought it was 0.5?

Anyhow that is when I changed my filters last when the phosphate started showing up in the new salt mix at around the same levels I would normally maintain in my tank.

I was not quoting the value from the op, I was quoting the value that I used in detailed comparisons to foods that I published.

 

[road_runner]

Usually phosphate in the Brute means it's time to service the RO/DI.

Test the output of the RO/DI and compare that to the Brute.

This do not make much sense to me..
Tds is a metric for filter performance but po4 I think not...
Its almost impossible to get a true zero po4 in rodi especially after it enter the container.
Home kits do not really measure zero..

 

[TheGreatWave]

This do not make much sense to me..
Tds is a metric for filter performance but po4 I think not...
Its almost impossible to get a true zero po4 in rodi especially after it enter the container.
Home kits do not really measure zero..

Usually if a RO/DI is showing TDS there is the ability to pass phosphate through the filter. I just figured they could compare the two to see if there is an increase in the bucket, it may indicate contamination from another source. Probably going to have to clean the bucket again first though. in which case they could start looking there. More of an A/B test rather then ultimate value. If you mix up new saltwater that is high in phosphate, there are only so many places it could be coming from. Phospahte is used as a chelating agent and a water softening in a lot of detergents etc.
OP's Brute looks really dirty for just 2 months use, if that picture is the ATO bin then I would say yes there is a contamination issue.

 

[road_runner]

Usually if a RO/DI is showing TDS there is the ability to pass phosphate through the filter. I just figured they could compare the two to see if there is an increase in the bucket, it may indicate contamination from another source. Probably going to have to clean the bucket again first though. in which case they could start looking there. More of an A/B test rather then ultimate value. If you mix up new saltwater that is high in phosphate, there are only so many places it could be coming from. Phospahte is used as a chelating agent and a water softening in a lot of detergents etc.
OP's Brute looks really dirty for just 2 months use, if that picture is the ATO bin then I would say yes there is a contamination issue.

So you think RODI filter have the ability to remove phosphates?
How do you measure po4 on fresh water? What kit do you use?

 

[Hermie]

Another note: backflush your RODI unit everytime you make fresh water. It's something I overlooked when I first got into reefing. Backflush for a minute or two then make your water.

Hi I am new to RODI, setting mine up atm. What is backflushing?

 

[Mical]

On your RODI unit you should have one of these https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/membrane-flush-valve.html Everytime you make a fresh batch of water you should open this valve for a minute or two to flush the system and helps keep the membrane clear.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

So you think RODI filter have the ability to remove phosphates?
How do you measure po4 on fresh water? What kit do you use?

Of course it does. Ro/di does a very good job removing phosphate. But there can be a huge amount in tap water so even taking out 90-99% of it may leave detectable levels.

 

[road_runner]

Of course it does. Ro/di does a very good job removing phosphate. But there can be a huge amount in tap water so even taking out 90-99% of it may leave detectable levels.

But randy none of our current kits are build to test po4 in fresh water...or is it?
I test po4 on brand new rodi that is produc9ng zero tds, po4 is high. I was told its because these kits are not built for rodi...
Would appreciate some education from you here.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

But randy none of our current kits are build to test po4 in fresh water...or is it?
I test po4 on brand new rodi that is produc9ng zero tds, po4 is high. I was told its because these kits are not built for rodi...
Would appreciate some education from you here.

As far as I know, kits like Salifert should detect it fine. Many folks use them this way.

 

[Effiebaby1284]

The problem with these trash containers, I cannot tell for sure if they leach something or not and if they react to the salt water and go through some chemistry reaction.
My rule of thumb, unless its food grade and NSF I do not use it.
I use the big 65g container that are built for drinking water. You can find them relatively cheap online with delievery .

Just so you know brute trashcans are food safe. They do not leech anything. They are the best container to use

 

[Effiebaby1284]

Holly molly ha ha ha. Here you have it.
I would not run something like this thu...there are limits ha ha

Why they do not leech chemicals at all?