Waterbox Peninsula 15 gallon Build Thread

[trevorhiller]

Nice setup what Power you got your Nero at ? I’m having trouble on my at mo getting flow right , I got jecod dc 1200 pump and got it in half power and Nero on random mode max 30 but torches doesn’t seem to like it

I have my Nero @ 45% on Random mode, but I only have two fish a clean up crew and a ricordea mushroom in there right now so I can set the Nero @ essentially whatever I want. I've definitely seen others say they have their flow higher than 30% though. Perhaps the torch just needs to acclimate to the flow or maybe a different position?

I haven't heard of anyone using that specific pump, do you like it?

 

[vins_reef]

I have my Nero @ 45% on Random mode, but I only have two fish a clean up crew and a ricordea mushroom in there right now so I can set the Nero @ essentially whatever I want. I've definitely seen others say they have their flow higher than 30% though. Perhaps the torch just needs to acclimate to the flow or maybe a different position?

I haven't heard of anyone using that specific pump, do you like it?

Yea pump ok you need to cut bit of to get it to fit but it’s powerful

 

[trevorhiller]

Day 38 Update:

Tank Chemistry:

I continue to struggle with extremely high calcium levels and low alkalinity levels (580 and 6.5 respectively). I’m not too concerned with the low alkalinity levels because I have a diatom bloom going on at the moment. Nitrates have been in the 2-3 range and Phosphates 0-0.1. I bought some Tropic Marin salt because I changed my mind and want to use their salt and All For Reef on this tank so I only need one dosing pump. Unfortunately, I’m afraid I won’t be able to dose anything with calcium levels in the high 500s-600 range.

I’m currently mixing up 5 gallons of Tropic Marin salt to begin incorporating into water changes. I’ll save the Red Sea Coral Pro salt for something else.

Pink Fusion & Purple Helix:
I believe I have some spots of coralline algae beginning to develop. It’s only been 29 days since I added the pink fusion and purple helix to the tank. I’ll continue to watch these spots to see if they grow. I’m really hoping for some vibrant purple coralline! It can be a nuisance, but I love the color of it and the look of it encrusting the rocks.

Livestock:
My first coral, a ricordea mushroom from reef cleaners is open and looking great, color is good. I didn’t glue it down yet, because it might get moved once I start adding some other corals. Clownfish are happy as can be. Clean up crew is doing good. I was bummed because I ordered two blue knuckle hermits f/Reef Cleaners and they forgot them in the box. I may place another order down the road once the tank is more established, but with there $50 minimum it’s going to be hard to place another order without overstocking at this point.

Skimmer:
Somehow I managed to cram the Eshopps Nano Skimmer, my heater, a bag of Marine Pure gems and the Prime gooseneck mount all in the middle chamber. Skimmer is working great, very pleased. I cleaned it yesterday and you can see in the photo it’s already pulling junk out of the water today.

New Toys:
I placed an order to Kraken Reef for their overflow cover because I was concerned with the clowns getting sucked up. I was so impressed with their product and customer service, that I placed another order for their filter floss cup and their lid.

 

[rishma]

Day 38 Update:

Tank Chemistry:

I continue to struggle with extremely high calcium levels and low alkalinity levels (580 and 6.5 respectively). I’m not too concerned with the low alkalinity levels because I have a diatom bloom going on at the moment. Nitrates have been in the 2-3 range and Phosphates 0-0.1. I bought some Tropic Marin salt because I changed my mind and want to use their salt and All For Reef on this tank so I only need one dosing pump. Unfortunately, I’m afraid I won’t be able to dose anything with calcium levels in the high 500s-600 range.

I’m currently mixing up 5 gallons of Tropic Marin salt to begin incorporating into water changes. I’ll save the Red Sea Coral Pro salt for something else.

Pink Fusion & Purple Helix:
I believe I have some spots of coralline algae beginning to develop. It’s only been 29 days since I added the pink fusion and purple helix to the tank. I’ll continue to watch these spots to see if they grow. I’m really hoping for some vibrant purple coralline! It can be a nuisance, but I love the color of it and the look of it encrusting the rocks.

Livestock:
My first coral, a ricordea mushroom from reef cleaners is open and looking great, color is good. I didn’t glue it down yet, because it might get moved once I start adding some other corals. Clownfish are happy as can be. Clean up crew is doing good. I was bummed because I ordered two blue knuckle hermits f/Reef Cleaners and they forgot them in the box. I may place another order down the road once the tank is more established, but with there $50 minimum it’s going to be hard to place another order without overstocking at this point.

Skimmer:
Somehow I managed to cram the Eshopps Nano Skimmer, my heater, a bag of Marine Pure gems and the Prime gooseneck mount all in the middle chamber. Skimmer is working great, very pleased. I cleaned it yesterday and you can see in the photo it’s already pulling junk out of the water today.

New Toys:
I placed an order to Kraken Reef for their overflow cover because I was concerned with the clowns getting sucked up. I was so impressed with their product and customer service, that I placed another order for their filter floss cup and their lid.

I’ve had issues with bad test kits driving me nuts trying to figure out chemistry problems. If you haven’t already done so, test the calcium with a different kit to verify.

 

[trevorhiller]

Definitely confirmed that I have coralline algae developing. In the last few days, my rock has also developed a bright green algae covering the rocks not sure on what that is, but it’s progress and I’ll take it! I still have diatoms? (I think) all over on the rock areas that get direct light. Very happy to see some visible growth because it’s on its way to looking like live rock.

I also see what appears to be a second mouth on my ricordea, I believe it’s getting ready to split soon….Hard to see in the attached photograph, but under the blues the mouth glows bright green and there appears to be a second one developing.

 

[trevorhiller]

I’ve had issues with bad test kits driving me nuts trying to figure out chemistry problems. If you haven’t already done so, test the calcium with a different kit to verify.

My Red Sea Calcium Pro test kit arrived today. I'm getting 410-420 with it, 500 with the API kit. Assuming the Red Sea test kit is a little more accurate (I hope!).

Alkalinity seems to be dropping by about 0.3-0.35/day. My last test was down to 5.7 from 7.0 4 days prior. Water changes seem to correct it, however, I was hoping to delay the water changes so I'm not zero nitrates. I'm going to give it a week and see what happens since I still have a little diatoms (although they seem to be clearing).

I'm a little confused as to how to keep alkalinity stable when it drops quickly like this. I know everyone says there is little need to dose anything for the first year, but I might consider starting All For Reef at a low dose and work my way up. Really would like to keep the calcium and alk stable to stimulate coralline growth. If anyone has any suggestions regarding this, I'm all ears!

 

[trevorhiller]

Tank Day 42

Diatoms seem to be subsiding, still working on keeping Alk and Calcium stable/in range but managed to get a nice top down shot of my blue ricordea mushroom from reef cleaners that definitely has two mouths. Also managed to get the clowns in a picture…they like to hang out in the top corner of the tank and are not very cooperative with photographs. I found a coral store that’s about 40 minutes from my house, so I’m hoping to go there soon to pickup a few more beginner frags but their hours are limited and our schedules haven’t aligned yet.

 

[rishma]

My Red Sea Calcium Pro test kit arrived today. I'm getting 410-420 with it, 500 with the API kit. Assuming the Red Sea test kit is a little more accurate (I hope!).

Alkalinity seems to be dropping by about 0.3-0.35/day. My last test was down to 5.7 from 7.0 4 days prior. Water changes seem to correct it, however, I was hoping to delay the water changes so I'm not zero nitrates. I'm going to give it a week and see what happens since I still have a little diatoms (although they seem to be clearing).

I'm a little confused as to how to keep alkalinity stable when it drops quickly like this. I know everyone says there is little need to dose anything for the first year, but I might consider starting All For Reef at a low dose and work my way up. Really would like to keep the calcium and alk stable to stimulate coralline growth. If anyone has any suggestions regarding this, I'm all ears!

I don’t follow the don’t dose year 1 idea. I dose starting after the tank is cycled, depending on demand. My latest tank is a few months old. I dose kalk and AFR daily to keep levels stable. I test daily at first and back down after I have stable numbers. I had a lot of consumption before I added corals due to Coraline algae growth. I was surprise what I needed to dose to keep up.

 

[trevorhiller]

I don’t follow the don’t dose year 1 idea. I dose starting after the tank is cycled, depending on demand. My latest tank is a few months old. I dose kalk and AFR daily to keep levels stable. I test daily at first and back down after I have stable numbers. I had a lot of consumption before I added corals due to Coraline algae growth. I was surprise what I needed to dose to keep up.

That’s interesting and good to know. It’s funny because people say you don’t generally need to dose for the first year, but also will give advice to start dosing when parameters are low between water changes. The “rules of thumb” are conflicting in my case, because I’m a month in with low parameters. I know others have been in the same boat, as I’ve been doing some searches and seen lots of similar posts.

Perhaps earlier dosing (when indicated) is the key to having earlier stability and coralline growth. I supposed we’ll see in the coming weeks.

Ultimately, I value the input of more experienced aquarists, but sometimes information gets regurgitated to death and I think it might lead people down the wrong path. As you’ve said you don’t buy into the 1 year rule of thumb.

 

[rishma]

That’s interesting and good to know. It’s funny because people say you don’t generally need to dose for the first year, but also will give advice to start dosing when parameters are low between water changes. The “rules of thumb” are conflicting in my case, because I’m a month in with low parameters. I know others have been in the same boat, as I’ve been doing some searches and seen lots of similar posts.

Perhaps earlier dosing (when indicated) is the key to having earlier stability and coralline growth. I supposed we’ll see in the coming weeks.

Ultimately, I value the input of more experienced aquarists, but sometimes information gets regurgitated to death and I think it might lead people down the wrong path. As you’ve said you don’t buy into the 1 year rule of thumb.

I think there is logic behind not dosing a lot of minor trace elements early, they are usually not depleted without a heavy coral population but the big 3? Ca, Alk, Mg? Those get depleted. I see no logic in letting them bottom out.

I do not claim to be an expert. Just a beginner in my 25th year of reefing. Here’s a pic of Coraline growing in my new tank after a couple of months of rock and water in it.

best of luck!

 

[trevorhiller]

I think there is logic behind not dosing a lot of minor trace elements early, they are usually not depleted without a heavy coral population but the big 3? Ca, Alk, Mg? Those get depleted. I see no logic in letting them bottom out.

I do not claim to be an expert. Just a beginner in my 25th year of reefing. Here’s a pic of Coraline growing in my new tank after a couple of months of rock and water in it.

best of luck!

That looks amazing! Exactly what I'm hoping to accomplish. I know it's silly, but that bright purple coralline on the live rocks really makes a nice base for the corals and makes the tank look so much healthier.

 

[rishma]

That looks amazing! Exactly what I'm hoping to accomplish. I know it's silly, but that bright purple coralline on the live rocks really makes a nice base for the corals and makes the tank look so much healthier.

Coraline growth, like coral growth, is aided by high pH and stable Alk and Ca and to a lesser extent Mg. pH is probably the toughest to manage but makes a huge difference. You can turn pH into a hobby by itself

 

[trevorhiller]

Coraline growth, like coral growth, is aided by high pH and stable Alk and Ca and to a lesser extent Mg. pH is probably the toughest to manage but makes a huge difference. You can turn pH into a hobby by itself

My pH was 7.8 pretty consistently (according to the API kit). I added a small DIY CO2 scrubber and now I’m in the 8.0-8.2 range depending on time of day. Pretty pleased with that project. I’ve gone back and forth on the kalkwasser in the ATO reservoir, not sure if I want to try it or not. My main concern is the difference in top of volume in the summer with the AC running vs the winter, but it seems lots of people do it successfully. The other concern is ruining my Tunze pump, but I suppose they are cheap enough to swap out yearly.

 

[rishma]

My pH was 7.8 pretty consistently (according to the API kit). I added a small DIY CO2 scrubber and now I’m in the 8.0-8.2 range depending on time of day. Pretty pleased with that project. I’ve gone back and forth on the kalkwasser in the ATO reservoir, not sure if I want to try it or not. My main concern is the difference in top of volume in the summer with the AC running vs the winter, but it seems lots of people do it successfully. The other concern is ruining my Tunze pump, but I suppose they are cheap enough to swap out yearly.

I have done it in top off before. It’s not idealbut works. Elevate pump off bottom so it doesn’t suck up slurry. The downside is what you mentioned, it’s not as consistent and your Alk is not as stable but I did it for many many years with success. If you are not keeping SPS then it’s likely fine, I did it with SPS for a long time and just change the concentration in winter and summer. corals are not as sensitive to Alk swings. I now use a dosing pump
Separate from my ATO so it’s the same every day.

DIY scrubber sounds great!

 

[InactiveAcct]

Forgot to mention:

I added 3 Trochus Snails, 4 Nassarius snails, Pods, some free nano brine ship and a piece of Blue Ricordea today from Reef Cleaners. First time dipping a coral using CoralRx. I'll try to post a picture when it opens back up.

Was reading through this, looks great!

Regarding the CUC you added, it's a pretty common mistake to go too fast on the CUC. Unless the tank is really established, there's not much for them to eat (they don't typically go after diatoms/ cyano from the establishing phase). With only having the two clowns, pretty sure that the fish food scraps are not going to cover 7 snails.

You could end up with a real chemistry issue when the snails starve and die. If I were you I'd try to trade them/ give away to a reefing friend if you have any.

I like where you are going with this though, in a year this is going to be an epic tank if you keep giving it this attention.

 

[InactiveAcct]

That’s interesting and good to know. It’s funny because people say you don’t generally need to dose for the first year, but also will give advice to start dosing when parameters are low between water changes. The “rules of thumb” are conflicting in my case, because I’m a month in with low parameters. I know others have been in the same boat, as I’ve been doing some searches and seen lots of similar posts.

Perhaps earlier dosing (when indicated) is the key to having earlier stability and coralline growth. I supposed we’ll see in the coming weeks.

Ultimately, I value the input of more experienced aquarists, but sometimes information gets regurgitated to death and I think it might lead people down the wrong path. As you’ve said you don’t buy into the 1 year rule of thumb.

Eh, its a 15 gallon tank. You can do a 25+% water change with a 5 gallon bucket and have perfect chemistry by only doing a single bucket every week or two. Even if you use a premium salt brand, it's only a few bucks a month. If you do that, the only thing you need to measure is salinity and temp, and maybe phosphate and nitrate as needed.

It's probably a good idea to start testing just to get practice for when you invariably upgrade.

To me, the dosing is something you do when it costs a lot of time and money to achieve the same results with a water change (big tank).

I've been doing this about 15 years and learned that when it hits the fan and you're not exactly sure what's could be wrong with the chemistry and causing coral browning/ recession, run carbon and do water changes.

 

[rishma]

Eh, its a 15 gallon tank. You can do a 25+% water change with a 5 gallon bucket and have perfect chemistry by only doing a single bucket every week or two. Even if you use a premium salt brand, it's only a few bucks a month. If you do that, the only thing you need to measure is salinity and temp, and maybe phosphate and nitrate as needed.

It's probably a good idea to start testing just to get practice for when you invariably upgrade.

To me, the dosing is something you do when it costs a lot of time and money to achieve the same results with a water change (big tank).

I've been doing this about 15 years and learned that when it hits the fan and you're not exactly sure what's could be wrong with the chemistry and causing coral browning/ recession, run carbon and do water changes.

Agree on the value of water changes and the ability to keep a small tank with that as the primary export mechanism. Totally a valid approach. No dosing at all? Yes, if the consumption is low enough that can work. But I’ve come to appreciate the value of stability which is easier for me with some dosing, albeit maybe not necessary for many many types of corals and beautiful tanks. My personal reefing habits and tastes benefit from a little Automation. ymmv. Many paths to success.

With his Alk dropping like it is, at least some manual dosing by hand might be easier than chasing with water changes. In my 25 gallon, low nutrients are a watch point for me, lots of water changes makes it worse, etc. It’s all trade offs.

 

[trevorhiller]

Agree on the value of water changes and the ability to keep a small tank with that as the primary export mechanism. Totally a valid approach. No dosing at all? Yes, if the consumption is low enough that can work. But I’ve come to appreciate the value of stability which is easier for me with some dosing, albeit maybe not necessary for many many types of corals and beautiful tanks. My personal reefing habits and tastes benefit from a little Automation. ymmv. Many paths to success.

With his Alk dropping like it is, at least some manual dosing by hand might be easier than chasing with water changes. In my 25 gallon, low nutrients are a watch point for me, lots of water changes makes it worse, etc. It’s all trade offs.

Right, this is the problem I am running into. I just tested today and Nitrates are 0. Phos is 0.04 and Alk is only 6.2. If I change water frequently enough to have stable Alk, I seem to need to do a change every 2-3 days and my nitrates are 0--which I understand can be a problem as well. My clown fish are small and I do plan to add a third fish eventually, but I don't want to go too fast on the fish.

To be honest, I would love to get to the point of not needing to do frequent water changes. I certainly don't mind doing them because they are a means to keeping the tank clean and alive, but I'd be lying if I didn't say that the idea of a nearly water change-less tank doesn't appeal to me...

 

[trevorhiller]

Was reading through this, looks great!

Regarding the CUC you added, it's a pretty common mistake to go too fast on the CUC. Unless the tank is really established, there's not much for them to eat (they don't typically go after diatoms/ cyano from the establishing phase). With only having the two clowns, pretty sure that the fish food scraps are not going to cover 7 snails.

You could end up with a real chemistry issue when the snails starve and die. If I were you I'd try to trade them/ give away to a reefing friend if you have any.

I like where you are going with this though, in a year this is going to be an epic tank if you keep giving it this attention.

I'm actually down to 3 Nassarius and 3 trochus snails and the nassarius are the super small vibex variety about the size of a pencil eraser. One died about 48 hours after arrival. Since my nitrates have been low, I've been supplementing the CUCs diet with Hikari algae wafers and they seem to go after them no problem. I don't think they are starving, but I'll definitely keep an eye on them. I have to scrape the glass quite a bit, so I think there is adequate nutrition in there for them at this point.

I need to get a video of the emerald crab feeding. I have a long grasping tool for moving stuff in the tank and he'll reach right out and grab the algae wafer piece from the tool. He's probably my favorite to feed at this point since he gets so excited.

 

[InactiveAcct]

Right, this is the problem I am running into. I just tested today and Nitrates are 0. Phos is 0.04 and Alk is only 6.2. If I change water frequently enough to have stable Alk, I seem to need to do a change every 2-3 days and my nitrates are 0--which I understand can be a problem as well. My clown fish are small and I do plan to add a third fish eventually, but I don't want to go too fast on the fish.

To be honest, I would love to get to the point of not needing to do frequent water changes. I certainly don't mind doing them because they are a means to keeping the tank clean and alive, but I'd be lying if I didn't say that the idea of a nearly water change-less tank doesn't appeal to me...

Yeah I hear ya on the minimal water changes desire.

Just keep in mind that as you top off evaporated water you add contaminants that your RO system missed, and these can only be removed by water changes.

As far as the alk swings go, we all have hobby grade test kits (even Hanna checkers) and typically get different answers every time we test something. Also, the alk is inherently instable. Same with ph - when you get a ph probe it’s pretty eye opening to see how it dips when you open or close windows or have guests over. You want to kick your relatives out of the house to get your ph back.

If I were in your shoes I’d do the water changes, and All For Reef if I wanted to try out dosing