Waterproof Connectors for DIY Projects

Dennis Cartier

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Planning for the need to find a good waterproof connector solution for my build, I thought I would ask the community for options and suggestions on what everyone is using for hooking up DIY projects. The features that I would like are:

  • Waterproof
  • Contamination risk (if a connector comes into contact with the water column, how bad will it be?)
  • Easy to use, both in crimping/assembling the connectors and using them once in the field (E.g. unhook with little to no cursing).
  • Long term availability
  • Look nice and professional
My initial search has led me to the JRready (https://www.jrdtools.com/) line of solid contact connectors. They are commonly used in automotive. I recognized them as I have the same connectors on my 4C (at least based on appearance).

Any other options out there that I should be looking at?

Dennis
 
Not sure what you are doing, but sealed connections is what you are looking for I believe. Note, if a PCB is also exposed to this environment then I am not how much a sealed connection will help.
 
whats the application(s) ?
For connecting remote sensors (float switches etc.) and distributed nodes (small single task micro controllers communicating over MQTT, BLE 5.0 and hopefully CAN 2.0).

Not sure what you are doing, but sealed connections is what you are looking for I believe. Note, if a PCB is also exposed to this environment then I am not how much a sealed connection will help.

The PCB's will be located in water proof boxes out of the way, either beside the tank in a cabinet using a DIN rail or for remote ones, on the underside of the stand support.

I should also mention, the connectors will be installed in positions out of the water, the waterproof feature is just insurance for splashes, etc.

Dennis
 
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Are you wanting a connector for ease of maintenance later or access? If not, I would just run straight wire into the waterproof box and remove the variable of a connector.
 
Are you wanting a connector for ease of maintenance later or access? If not, I would just run straight wire into the waterproof box and remove the variable of a connector.
I want them for both purposes, maintenance and access later. I also want to combat a tendency of mine to have messy wiring that only gets worse over time. My hope is by implementing a standardized connection scheme I can curtail the, do the bare minimum to get it functional and then forget about it, tendency. The wires inside the boxes that connect to the PCB's will be terminated with ferrules where screw terminals are used. Other connector types if screw terminal support unavailable, but hopefully that will be rare.


I didn't use waterproof connectors on any of my builds so I haven't used these but why not something like this.
It's basically the connector that Jebao (and probably other companies) use for their pumps.

I did think of those and have used them in the past. My concern with them is that they tend to be of limited configuration and you have to have a joint that you need to waterproof anyway. I would prefer continuous runs of wire originating at the PCB and terminating at the connector, shrunk wrapped and tidied up with split loom. This should allow float switches to be terminated directly to a connector staying waterproof all along the way.

Dennis
 
What are you using BLE for?

The micro controllers that I plan to use implement BLE 5.0 Long Range, so this will act as a backup to WiFi. I do plan on implementing duty cycle tracking to detect outlier events, but when we are covering things like float switches, it will be prudent to have a backup in case my local network goes down. Ditto for my plan to use CAN 2.0, which will give physical wired connectivity in the event the other 2 connection methods fail. I expect that I may want to fallback to CAN even before BLE if my Alkatronic's struggles at even maintaining a basic connection over Bluetooth is any indication.

Dennis
 
For Low Voltage, 12 and 24 volts, I’ve used the Spark-plug Dielectric Grease. I’ve been tempted to use it on higher voltages, 120 VAC, but have chickened out.
 
FWIW I used 1/4” mono plugs to connect my remote switches et
 

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FWIW I used 1/4” mono plugs to connect my remote switches et
+1 on the audio plugs. I recently created a mega cable using Cat5 and 6 TRRS 4 Pole Stereo 1/8" 3.5mm plugs. Now I can have 6 float switches connected to my Neptune breakout box.
 

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