Week 2 parameters! Advice!

theimer808

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Hey R2R! just wondering what everyone thought of my parameters,
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1457676151.087849.jpg

Any advise would be great. It's a 30g with 20lbs of live rock and 11lbs of dry rock. About a 2" sandbed.
 
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Ammonia needs to come down 0.0
PH can be a 8.2 but I wouldn't chase it just yet.
Po4 needs to have a #.......;)
Temp can be lower, at least below 80.

How did you all measure this if I may ask?
 
After you add livestock, be careful with those digital thermometers. They can be significantly off at times. I have 3, all read consistently low by 2 to 4 degrees. So it read 78, the temp really was 80 or 82. Additionally, as the battery dies, the temp readings get more and more off. I recommend getting a standard thermometer to help calibrate the digital. I look at my standard once in a while (it sits in the back compartment), and look at the digital daily, looking for something wrong. If something is off, check the standard. Redundancy and backup is always a good idea[emoji362] [emoji2]
 
Lol I have one of those stick on ones as well about 2" below my digital probe, they seem to stay close number wise as of now. My heater has the readout too. So I have 3 different guages to go from[emoji23][emoji5]️. Thanks for the info tho! I was wondering if these digital ones would last or be any good. It was only like 8-10 bucks. Figured I'd give it a try!
 
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I've been testing my water daily, and I noticed my ph has dropped,
8.4 to 8.0 over 24 hours,
Ammonia didn't change at 2
Nitrite went from .5 to 1
And nitrates went from 10 to 5.
Am I crazy or is everything going backwards?
Haven't added anything nor have I done a water change.
I'm lost, and any help would be praised.
 
Within the same hour. Yes. Just didn't know why my ph would drop .4 in 24 hours. There was no change previously
 
API tests are not the best and can be inconsistent... i use them too, but once I finish the bottles, I'm switching to red sea test kits. Anyway, a number of things could be going on here.
1. Ammonia: do you have anyhting that is generating ammonia, adding starter solutions, have a fish, cuc? If no, you're ammonia numbers probably won't move too fast, so I wouldn't be too concerned.
2. Nitrite: this number going up is a good sign, means the bacteria are turning the ammonia into nitrite.
3. Nitrate: there are a couple way nitrates could go down, some simple possibilities, others maybe ore complex. First the simple... the API test, the colors between 5 and 10 are so close that it is easy to read it one way, then the other. Also it is absolutely critical with the nitrate test to do your first bottle (10 drops) shake the test for 1 min, while shaking the 2nd bottle for a minute. Then add 10 drops of the 2nd, and shake for 3 min. And then let sit for 5 min. If you "shortcut" any of the steps, it will give a false of inconsistent reading. In my opinion, API tests are great for measuring large spikes, and not good for small movement in numbers. Second, the more complicated possibilities, did you have an algae bloom? If so, algae eats nitrate. Another possibility, your rock and substrate can act as a "sink" for nutrients, more commonly phosphates, but nutrients can and do leach into rock, as well as leach out. It's all about reaching an equilibrium within your system. If you started with live rock, you might see a leaching out into the water. If you started with dry (and cleaned) rock, you might see the rock absorbing nutients.

Anyway, probably too much detail, and really not worth worrying about, you're only 2 weeks into the cycle and your numbers aren't that far off. A patient slow cycle will take 6 weeks, sometimes less. There are ways to speed it up, basically adding an ammonia source, and beneficial bacteria. Good things come to those who wait. good luck!
 
API tests are not the best and can be inconsistent... i use them too, but once I finish the bottles, I'm switching to red sea test kits. Anyway, a number of things could be going on here.
1. Ammonia: do you have anyhting that is generating ammonia, adding starter solutions, have a fish, cuc? If no, you're ammonia numbers probably won't move too fast, so I wouldn't be too concerned.
2. Nitrite: this number going up is a good sign, means the bacteria are turning the ammonia into nitrite.
3. Nitrate: there are a couple way nitrates could go down, some simple possibilities, others maybe ore complex. First the simple... the API test, the colors between 5 and 10 are so close that it is easy to read it one way, then the other. Also it is absolutely critical with the nitrate test to do your first bottle (10 drops) shake the test for 1 min, while shaking the 2nd bottle for a minute. Then add 10 drops of the 2nd, and shake for 3 min. And then let sit for 5 min. If you "shortcut" any of the steps, it will give a false of inconsistent reading. In my opinion, API tests are great for measuring large spikes, and not good for small movement in numbers. Second, the more complicated possibilities, did you have an algae bloom? If so, algae eats nitrate. Another possibility, your rock and substrate can act as a "sink" for nutrients, more commonly phosphates, but nutrients can and do leach into rock, as well as leach out. It's all about reaching an equilibrium within your system. If you started with live rock, you might see a leaching out into the water. If you started with dry (and cleaned) rock, you might see the rock absorbing nutients.

Anyway, probably too much detail, and really not worth worrying about, you're only 2 weeks into the cycle and your numbers aren't that far off. A patient slow cycle will take 6 weeks, sometimes less. There are ways to speed it up, basically adding an ammonia source, and beneficial bacteria. Good things come to those who wait. good luck!

After i got my API kit i learned they weren't the best, I may try to switch and put this one on the back shelf.
I did spike it with a cap full of ammonia a few days ago. So my ammonia level at 2.0 is understandable. BUT, went to 2.0 and hasn't budged from there. other than that there's nothing else added.

As far as I can see or tell I have no algae growth yet. There may be a little growth on the live rock. But not a noticeable amount.

Would you recommend adding some kind of bacteria? If so what?
Since this is my first saltwater aquarium, I'm a little on the edge per say haha. I don't want to do something and mess it up, and the nitrate level appearing as if it had dropped worried me a tad. But you are right, the yellow is VERY hard to read on the card. (I had to ask my girlfriend for a second opinion!)
I appreciate the words of wisdom, it's nice having people willing to give advise to a "newbie" like me! Thank you!
 
Since this is my first saltwater aquarium, I'm a little on the edge.
I completely understand! I am far from an expert, but can relate to your situation. I had the same concerns and felt like a fish out of water when I started my system. I have only set up my one aquarium, so take my advice with a grain of salt. There are some real experts here and I will not be offended if someone corrects me. When I started mine, it took 4 weeks before I saw any real movement in the cycle. I had to jump start it a little with an ammonia starter I bought at my local fish store. If I remember, I took the ammonia up to 10. As the ammonia droped, the nitrite spiked, then the nitrate spiked as the ammonia and nitrite went to 0.
Would you recommend adding some kind of bacteria? If so what?
Before adding anything, let's talk about what you have in there now. Remember, when starting a new ecosystem, you are trying to create a balance in the bacteria colonies to complete the nitrogen cycle. Let's cover the basics and forgive me if I sound condescending, I just want to insure that you are set up correctly.
1. Water: Size of your tank? Did you mix your own, or buy from LFS? Was the fresh water RODI, before adding salt? Chloromines (disinfectant sometimes used by a city in tap water) can do some really funny things, and most of the conditioners don't address it.
2. Rock: How many pounds of rock did you put in? Live rock or dead? Mix? If dead, did you scrub it muriatic acid? If dead was it completely clean of organic materials?
3. Substrate: How many pounds of sand (or gravel or crushed coral) did you put in? Live sand? Dead sand?

If all the rock and substrate is dead, you will need to add something to get the bacteria colonies going. If you started with some live rock or live sand, the good bacteria is in there and will start to do their thing. Also want to make sure you have enough rock for the bacteria to colonize in.

Most importantly, because you are starting a new system, don't worry too much, you really don't have much to loose if something goes wrong, and even if it does, it is easily corrected. Also, keep reading and researching. There great resources here and various places online to gather information. It is a little overwhelming at first, but it does get easier with time. Owning and maintaining a saltwater aquarium is a commitment and your journey is just beginning. The rewards of having a successful system are great! For fun, here's a shot of my little aquarium. It's now 10 months old.
4c74b741e49ecb304c0ac1c173c5c141.jpg
 
I completely understand! I am far from an expert, but can relate to your situation. I had the same concerns and felt like a fish out of water when I started my system. I have only set up my one aquarium, so take my advice with a grain of salt. There are some real experts here and I will not be offended if someone corrects me. When I started mine, it took 4 weeks before I saw any real movement in the cycle. I had to jump start it a little with an ammonia starter I bought at my local fish store. If I remember, I took the ammonia up to 10. As the ammonia droped, the nitrite spiked, then the nitrate spiked as the ammonia and nitrite went to 0.

Before adding anything, let's talk about what you have in there now. Remember, when starting a new ecosystem, you are trying to create a balance in the bacteria colonies to complete the nitrogen cycle. Let's cover the basics and forgive me if I sound condescending, I just want to insure that you are set up correctly.
1. Water: Size of your tank? Did you mix your own, or buy from LFS? Was the fresh water RODI, before adding salt? Chloromines (disinfectant sometimes used by a city in tap water) can do some really funny things, and most of the conditioners don't address it.
2. Rock: How many pounds of rock did you put in? Live rock or dead? Mix? If dead, did you scrub it muriatic acid? If dead was it completely clean of organic materials?
3. Substrate: How many pounds of sand (or gravel or crushed coral) did you put in? Live sand? Dead sand?

If all the rock and substrate is dead, you will need to add something to get the bacteria colonies going. If you started with some live rock or live sand, the good bacteria is in there and will start to do their thing. Also want to make sure you have enough rock for the bacteria to colonize in.

Most importantly, because you are starting a new system, don't worry too much, you really don't have much to loose if something goes wrong, and even if it does, it is easily corrected. Also, keep reading and researching. There great resources here and various places online to gather information. It is a little overwhelming at first, but it does get easier with time. Owning and maintaining a saltwater aquarium is a commitment and your journey is just beginning. The rewards of having a successful system are great! For fun, here's a shot of my little aquarium. It's now 10 months old.
4c74b741e49ecb304c0ac1c173c5c141.jpg

My tank is a 30g rectangle, I chose a smaller tank to begin with to learn about from since they are known to be a harder keep. (I'm also starting a 55 or a 75 since I already have both on hand, I'll decide after this one is cycles and stable.) I mixed my own water with RO water, tds was 5. It's got about 20-22 pounds of live "Fiji" rock and 11 pounds of dry rock from the LFS. The live rock wasn't cleaned, I got it from "that pet place" next day air. I was told I didn't want to clean it since the die off would help in my cycle. The dry rock was already cleaned and was free of any growth and had been cleaned already.
I have an entire 40lb bag of Caribsea live sand for a bed, so probably around 2-3 inches of bed.
I took today's test and it proved that API is hit and miss, my results were.....
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1457813455.733729.jpg


pH was back up to 8.4 (I could have just been my fault by not shaking the bottle or tube enough.)
And everything else was back on track as it should have been, my ammonia level was cut in half which gives me hope

You're aquarium looks awesome! Hopefully by the end of the year this little tank will be similar to that, this one is just one to learn off since it's not a large display. it's not going to be a prize tank by any means, but I was hoping for a few simple corals and a couple fish. Nothing to wild. I'll save that for the larger tank.
Thank you!
 
My nitrates could be between 20-40, this test is hard to read. Even for my good 21 year old eyes! Haha I may just get a Set of digital Hanna guages. It's quite a bit more money, but from what I hear they are more accurate, easier to use, and save a lot more time!
 
Your numbers look like everything is on track. Your salinity is a touch high, but easy to adjust. PH can swing through the course of the day. The SPS guys watch it like hawks, but I have "easy" corals and don't worry too much as long as it's in range. In all honesty, I tested water more in the first 6 weeks than I have in the last 9 months. Once your tank is up and running and stabilizes, IMO the need for testing diminishes. Simple observation of the corals and rock will tell you if something is going wrong, then I test to see the numbers. But it's pretty obvious when the nitrates or phosphates get out of balance, algae starts growing.

Mine is 24 gallon. I'm not sure if it's harder or not, never tried anything bigger. I can say with certainty that it is sensitive to changes and things react quickly. If my nitrates or phosphates climb I get algae within hours. I do a water change or clean my algae scrubber and poof, algae will be gone in hours. I think that is why people say the nano systems are hard...it can go bad quick, but it can also turn around quick, if you are observant. After your tank cycles and you start adding livestock, get yourself into the habit of doing scheduled water changes. Some go weekly, I do a 20% every 2 weeks. Works for me, but adjust to whatever works for you.

You have the right amount of rock IMO, sand is a little deep for my taste, but but you should be looking good in a week or two. When you have time, read up on deep sand beds, and the advantages and risks. In a week, you should see a big diatom bloom. This is a strong indicator it's time to get yourself a clean up crew, some snails and some hermits. Let them do their work and a few weeks later, add a fish or some coral. With the small systems, aside from the cuc, only add 1 or 2 things at a time, and allow at least a week, 2 is better, for your system to adapt to the bioload.
 
Nice set up
Your sand bed is 2" so not a dsb just clean your bed and you will be fine.
Once your eatablished testing is minimal. I dont think worth the cost. I only test is something looks wrong
I have 150g system and do 2 10g changes a week
 
Nice set up
Your sand bed is 2" so not a dsb just clean your bed and you will be fine.
Once your eatablished testing is minimal. I dont think worth the cost. I only test is something looks wrong
I have 150g system and do 2 10g changes a week
Should I do a water change during the cycle at any point?
 

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