Weld-on

[swannyson7]

I'm going to be installing acrylic baffles in a new tank to convert it to a sump and I can't remember which number weld-on to use. Anyone know off hand? For some reason #4 is sounding familiar, but I can't remember for sure. Thanks!

 

[inactive]

Depends on the quality of the baffle cut.

 

[swannyson7]

Not very good. It's 1/4" acrylic that I ripped with a fine tooth radial arm saw blade. I can sand it down a bit, but by no means will it be a professional grade cut.

 

[swannyson7]

Some people seem to be using #4 for the butt joint and then a bead of the thicker #16 to make sure its secure. Is that my best bet with a rough cut?

 

[luke33]

If it is a laser cut i'd say use #4, but since its a diy cut i'd use the 16 as it will fill in any edges. And if it doesn't matter what it looks like your good

 

[Troylee]

Some people seem to be using #4 for the butt joint and then a bead of the thicker #16 to make sure its secure. Is that my best bet with a rough cut?

this would be the correct way...

 

[Troylee]

If it is a laser cut i'd say use #4, but since its a diy cut i'd use the 16 as it will fill in any edges. And if it doesn't matter what it looks like your good

This would be trouble Luke..... Any time plastic Is laser cut you can't really weld it period or your gonna have crazing which is fine cracks known as stress cracks... A routed edge is the best... Stay away from lasers!!!!!

 

[swannyson7]

Thanks for the info everyone! I just ordered some #4 and #16 online.

 

[waxy]

I'd recommend using weldon 4, then you can touch it up with WO 16. You can go straight to WO32 but that's industrial strength and is only recommended for 3/8 // 1/2-1" thick sheets.

 

[luke33]

This would be trouble Luke..... Any time plastic Is laser cut you can't really weld it period or your gonna have crazing which is fine cracks known as stress cracks... A routed edge is the best... Stay away from lasers!!!!!

Good to know! Thanks Troy. I use both myself.