Well I think it’s...

DarrenCar

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Or maybe it’s this one.... This is me using the primitive color chart on my API testing kit. I know I’m a beginner in the hobby and maybe I’m supposed to go though this phase of using the drop and shake and compare method to test my parameters but is there a better way to get a more accurate reading? All the while NOT taking out a second mortgage to fund the purchase.
 
Or maybe it’s this one.... This is me using the primitive color chart on my API testing kit. I know I’m a beginner in the hobby and maybe I’m supposed to go though this phase of using the drop and shake and compare method to test my parameters but is there a better way to get a more accurate reading? All the while NOT taking out a second mortgage to fund the purchase.
What are you measuring?
 
At this point just ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and PH. I am sure as I progress I will be needing to test other things as well..
 
Well that’s easy... stop measuring ammonia, nitrite, and pH and you’ve solved 3/4 of your problem. Then buy a Salifert kit for nitrate.
 
Once your nitrogen cycle is over you can stop looking at ammonia. Nitrite is not toxic in SW or so I've been told. That having been said I like to see it drop off before I consider the nitrogen cycle complete. This is more to make sure the nitrogen cycle is at a point where it is stable rather than anything else. Then I don't test for that. pH I check if I think something is wrong otherwise I don't. +1 on the Salifert nitrate test, but still it's a bit of a guess on what shade it is. I use my wife for this, her eye is far better for color than mine. :)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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