Well water and a Spectrapure RO/DI?

MyLittleReef · Dec 29, 2015

I recently moved from NYC to a small town in NJ. I have yet to move my reef tanks over - mainly because I'm afraid of what will happen with the water. Our new house uses well water and while it tested safe for human consumption, 3 of my 6 bettas died within the first couple of days and the others looked like they were next until I switched them to bottled water asap (I used NYC tap water for them and I had at least one that was 4 years old). I own a Spectrapure 5 stage RO/DI 90gpd system and I never had a problem in NYC. But the TDS reading there was 35ppm BEFORE it went through the filter. Just to make me more worried, I noticed blue/green staining in the bathroom sink at the new house - which is ineveitibly copper. Will the Spectrapure be able to pull out copper as well as all the extras that come with well water? Will I have to give up the hobby completely or downsize to the point of using bottled water for my tank?

redfishbluefish · Dec 29, 2015

The potential issue with a number of aquifers in NJ is the presence of CO2 in the water. You need to test for that, and if present, first eliminate the CO2 before running through your DI. CO2 will burn out DI extremely fast (within hours). Let's see if we can get @AZDesertRat to comment.

AZDesertRat · Dec 29, 2015

Copper is removed mostly by the carbon block then polished off by the membrane and DI.
You say the water tested safe for human consumption? What exactly was analyzed? Did they do a good sacan or was it just a few parameters? The RO/DI should remove just about anything imaginable but if you have a better idea what you are dealing with, such as co2, you can fine tune sediment filters, carbons or DI resins so it is most efficient and everything lasts longer.

MyLittleReef · Dec 30, 2015

Thanks guys. How would I test for co2?

jdbrown1998 · Dec 30, 2015

pH can be a good substitute test for CO2 - the more carbon dioxide the more it sets up an equilibrium reaction forming carbonic acid and the lower your pH. Normal range out of the tap (test quickly) should be 6-8.5 ish. You said you had the copper leaching stains - probably means your pH is lower than that but test to be sure. If it is low then it is picking up metals from all the pipes (essentially eating your plumbing from the inside). You can get a pretreated added before the water enters the house if you want or just make sure your ro/di is ready to handle it.

AZDesertRat · Dec 30, 2015

On the Spectrapure website in the FAQ section you will find a nomograph you can use to calculate co2 if you know your pH and alkalinity in the tap water. Or they sell an inexpensive co2 test kit.

Reefrookie220 · Dec 30, 2015

Just a tid bit that may help you on your venture, the black di resien lasts noticeably longer than the color changing does....had a manufacturer tell me this.

AZDesertRat · Dec 30, 2015

Color changing resins actually contain a dye that adds TDS back to the finished water as it wears off. They are also unreliable for the most part, they can turn in streaks, all at once, never, top to bottom, bottom to top etc. Forget the color change and always depend on a good ATC handheld TDS meter.

Illusions · Dec 30, 2015

AZDesertRat said:
Color changing resins actually contain a dye that adds TDS back to the finished water as it wears off. They are also unreliable for the most part, they can turn in streaks, all at once, never, top to bottom, bottom to top etc. Forget the color change and always depend on a good ATC handheld TDS meter.

How trustworthy are the inline TDS meters in your opinion?
Do you have a recommended brand of handheld you prefer or like to use?

Thanks in advance

AZDesertRat · Dec 30, 2015

I own two dual inline TDS meters but only use them as a rough guide since they are not truly ATC temperature compensated. They lack the accuracy of good ATC handhelds in the same price range such as the TDS-3, TDS-4TM or AP-1 or the more expensive but much more sensitive COM-100 all from the same manufacturer HM Digital. I have owned all four and presently besides the two inlines have an AP-1 and my favorite the COM-100.

Reab · Dec 30, 2015

If you use well water, the ods are high that the community you live in is required to get the water tested every so often. I grew up on well water and my father was the one who did the testing for our area. I would see if you can find the test results. As stated before, to units remove alot. The real tricky business is chlorine

AZDesertRat · Dec 30, 2015

Chlorine is simple. It is the carbon block that removes the chlorine and good carbon blocks will adsorb the chlorine from 12,000 to 20,000 gallons of normally chlorinated or chloraminated water no problem.
Most domestic wells are not chlorinated but a good carbon block is still advised as they also help with organics like herbicides, pesticides and fuel byproducts from leaking underground tanks or run off.

MyLittleReef · Dec 31, 2015

Sorry, double post

MyLittleReef · Dec 31, 2015

We have very low to non-existent by products in the water according to the test done right before we bought the house. I want to have someone come out to do a more in-depth water test, but not sure of how to find someone who's not just going to give me the same standard test that was just done a couple of months ago. That "low pH eating the pipes" thing has me worried now.

AZDesertRat · Dec 31, 2015

Contact a local environmental testing lab about a domestic well scan. You pick the sample bottle set up in a cooler, fill the bottles according to the labs included instructions and return the cooler filled with the iced down samples to be analyzed. I do this monthly for my clients.