well water RODI question

[fernalfer]

Ok so this is my setup. Going well water through a booster pump and then through my RODI 4 stage BRS unit but not through the DI Resin part of the filtration. I will Put the RO part of the water in a brute container where it will get an airstone to get rid of the CO2 in my well water. The i will use a pump to pump the RO water from the 1st container thru the DI Resin portion of the filtration into the 2nd brute container. Trying to save from going thru the DI so quickly.

Can someone please tell me how to read the output of the water on the RO side. Do you just move the TDS monitor to the last one outputting the water in the chain?. So in my case right after the 3rd stage.

 

[Lonny]

I have the same unit. But I've never bypassed the resin. The tds meter on mine just had an in-out marked on it to read dissolved solids in the source water then flip the switch to out to read the filtered dissolved solids. Hope this helps

 

[Lonny]

I may have miss understood what your asking. Are you wanting to re-plumb the meter?

 

[fernalfer]

Well i want to see what my out is after the first three stages. I will be filtering the water but not thru the DI portion where the TDS meter usually reads the out. I want to read it after the 3 stages before the DI resin.

 

[Lonny]

I don't see why you couldn't plumb it that way.

 

[PedroYoung]

just curious how you determined you had high CO2 levels? I am on a well and have never tested CO2.

 

[fernalfer]

I think i'm confusing myself lol. When the TDS meter is switched to the in setting that tests the water coming out of the RO portion of the filtration.

 

[fernalfer]

just curious how you determined you had high CO2 levels? I am on a well and have never tested CO2.

I don't know. But from reading most with wells do so i'm just taking that extra step just incase. Instead of blowing through DI cartridges.

 

[Lonny]

I just took a closer look at mine and the in reading is after the three stages the out reading is after the DI.

 

[Triggreef]

just curious how you determined you had high CO2 levels? I am on a well and have never tested CO2.

Go to spectrapures site and faq on the bottom. Then click on the question about co2. There is a link to a calculator. When you click the link it will appear that nothing happens and you have to scroll down. You will need tap water alk and ph and temp or something. Mine measured around 69.

 

[Triggreef]

Seems like a lot of extra space and time. I'm sticking with blowing through the di.

 

[fernalfer]

Seems like a lot of extra space and time. I'm sticking with blowing through the di.

How fast do you go thru it? I have a 120 gallon tank.

 

[Triggreef]

I honestly don't know at all. I need to get better at keeping track of when they get changed. I'm sure everything would last longer if the sediment and carbon were changed on time. I have a 300+ gallon system and make water almost everyday it seems.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Your inline TDS meter should already be reading RO on the IN probe and DI on the OUT probe if it is installed correctly.

As far as moving the water from the Brute to the DI you only want a trickle of very light stream to get maximum contact time between the water and resin. Get the smallest pump you can that will have sufficient head to move through the DI at a slow trickle.

 

[fernalfer]

Your inline TDS meter should already be reading RO on the IN probe and DI on the OUT probe if it is installed correctly.

As far as moving the water from the Brute to the DI you only want a trickle of very light stream to get maximum contact time between the water and resin. Get the smallest pump you can that will have sufficient head to move through the DI at a slow trickle.

I feel with all this process to make RODI water and slow trickling the water thru the DI Resin it may take me a couple months just to make my RODI water to fill my 120 gallon.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Should take about 24 hours or less with the RO booster. I get 135-150 gpd out of my Spectrapure UHE system boosted to 95-100 psi and at 99.4% removal efficiency.
If it were me I would elevate the Brute 18-24" on a stand of some sort, eliminate the booster and gravity feed the DI via a bulkhead or uniseal in the side of the Brute with a valve to slow it to a trickle to match or approximate the RO flow rate. The reason an RO/DI works so well is the flow through the DI is as slow as the water exits the RO. RO is only pretreatment for DI.

 

[fernalfer]

Should take about 24 hours or less with the RO booster. I get 135-150 gpd out of my Spectrapure UHE system boosted to 95-100 psi and at 99.4% removal efficiency.
If it were me I would elevate the Brute 18-24" on a stand of some sort, eliminate the booster and gravity feed the DI via a bulkhead or uniseal in the side of the Brute with a valve to slow it to a trickle to match or approximate the RO flow rate. The reason an RO/DI works so well is the flow through the DI is as slow as the water exits the RO. RO is only pretreatment for DI.

If i wanted to go the pump route from the first container thru the DI Resin which pump would you recommend for a slow trickle. I bought the cobalt mj-1200 but feel that will be a lot more then a trickle.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Maybe the Tom's Aqualifter? Anything that you can throttle back to a couple ounces a minute.

 

[airwaterice]

Di resin contact time? Ideally, for a 10 inch refillable DI cartridge you dont want to be making RODI water more than about 2 gallons every 15 minutes...any faster you should expect to get higher than Zero tds...gravity fed works great if you have the patience...

 

[TheEngineer]

I gravity feed my RO water through two 10" DI cartridges after the RO is aerated for 24 hours. It goes realllllly slowly, but I don't mind. I have high CO2 in my water and I stopped destroying DI resin by making my RO, aerating for 24 hours and then passing it through the DI and finally storing that.