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0 TDS all day long
What’s a good rodi unit?
- Thread starter Jvesche20
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The mixed bed resin Aquatic Life gives you is garbage. Their unit is good as long as you use quality resin.
OP
OP
Jvesche20
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They are pretty expensive. $30 resin and brs has much cheaper. think I’m gonna get a 7 stage 150 rodi soon
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That’s why I added BRS triple DI saver onto my aquatic life 100gpd system and now it’s amazing.
I would also just add on to what you have, such that you have 1 sentiment filter, 2 carbon block filters (in the unit you have now), then the RO membrane you have, and add DI canisters. You'll save money and have fun building your own. The triple DI saver mentioned above is the rolls Royce setup, but at 89 dollars, that would be hard to not do. You can get away with 2 canisters, but won't be much cheaper. I don't think anyway. Going with quality filter media (filters, blocks, and DI) is very important too.
OP
OP
Jvesche20
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Alright I’m convinced lol. How long does this last for? Does it make it last longer than what it does with out this triple saver?
Let’s put a list together so I can figure out what exactly I need to get.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/triple-di-saver-with-triple-tds-meter-brs.html
Triple saver?
And the resin. Now do I need 3 of these or is 1 enough for all 3 canisters?
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin-color-changing.html
Also the tds meter did you add that or is it included with the 3 canisters?
T Carey
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I have to go with the BRS 6 or 7 unit with the dual RO membranes. I get 0 tds out and it is close to 1 to 1 output vs reject water. My water is about 170 TDS going in and I have yet to replace a DI cartridge in 1 1/2 years. I make about 100 gals of RO/DI water a month. I have amber in the first DI cart up to about 15% level in that time. I don't have a permanent setup so I disconnect the DI bank from the RO unit and store it in the garage. It gets set up next to the kitchen sink with an adapter so I can connect it to the kitchen faucet. Prior to that I had an RO/DI unit that came out of a dialysis clinic. Set up and take down time in about 5 minutes. It takes 28 minutes to fill a 5 gal container.
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It comes with everything you need including the meter and 3 different resins, I’ve made around 300 gallons of water so far and my resin still has plenty of life in it. For the price you won’t go wrong.
azbigjohn
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I am surprised no one else has mentioned it, but I think Spectrapure is the best RODI unit on the market. I have used mine for 4 years, and it is awesome. They also provide a lot of the large coral and fish marketers their industrial units.
Mattman1977
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The three way tds gauge would be my starting point, install it on your rodi unit so you know what you have to work with. Without a gauge you’re guessing at what you are putting in your system, you get to see your tds going into the system, coming out of the membrane, then final product. I have the spectrapure 90 and my readings are 350 tap water, 4 out of the membrane and 0 product water from a 4 stage unit that’s with heavy chlorine to fight the brain eater bug. That said the kit suggested from brs would definitely help get you to 0 tds.
Good luck
Matt
Good luck
Matt
Pntbll687
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A year is a general guide line. I have to replace my membrane every six months since I have so much sediment in my water. I have the aquatic life twist in 100gpd unit. I have to replace the sediment filter every two months and the carbon block every 3 months.
I got an increase in production from the unit when I switched my whole house filter to a extra fine filter.
cooltowncorals
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As long as your flow isn’t to fast through your resin and your resin isn’t depleted you will get 0 tds when using DI. How long the DI lasts depends on how high the tds is in the water entering it and it’s capacity. If your above 0 either you are pushing the water through to quickly like from a reservoir tank or your DI is exhausted. The better pre filters like RO membrane (mostly) carbon/sediment the lower the tds going into the DI which improves the lifespan. Who sold you the industry standard housings that hold the filters does not change performace no need to change the whole system just change the filters to meet your goals. You need to know what’s your houses incoming tds what rejectiontion percentage do I want my membrane to be some are 90 some are 99% if your water start at 50 you can get away with lower if it starts at 300+ I would lean towards 98+ rejection the pre filters just pick a rejection size .5 micron to 10 micron. Spectrapure sells the best membranes IMO.
Typical replacement interval for an RO membrane is 2 to 5 years.
That said, if you have horrible water, inadequate prefiltration, or an inappropriate waste water to purified water ratio, you can kill a membrane in just a couple of weeks.
*If you have sediment reaching the membrane, then you have an inappropriate sediment filter(s).
*If you have to replace a carbon block on a residential system every three months, then either you are buying reeeaaaaaly low end blocks, or you're using GAC, or your sediment filter and carbon block(s) may not be matched well.
Russ
jsker
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I would also like to add inadequate water pressure. When I add a booster pump my system is now working more efficiently. My pressure was at 45 lbs and now I keep it about 75 lbs.
T Carey
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I agree about the water pressure being a critical item. Low water pressure does not make for a happy RO system. I am fortunate that my city delivers around 75 PSI most of the time. In summer it drops to about 70 PSI. Less than that a booster pump would be needed IMHO.
PhreeByrd
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I'm sure Russ will (hopefully) chime in here even though he might disagree, but the vast majority of home RO/DI systems are far more similar than they are different. Assuming you have a flow restrictor that's matched to the membrane and an easy way to start the system each time by bleeding off TDS creep (so you're not wasting your DI media), then almost anybody's system can provide good results. There are big differences in the filtration and resin media you use, however. But those are consumable items, and are essentially interchangeable between all brands of systems.
You can either do a lot of research and learn all about RO/DI systems and how they work, or you can hook up with a knowledgable guy like Russ, Air Water Ice, BRS, or a number of other helpful and experienced vendors. They will help you choose a system and media that will work best for your situation. But without some good basic info about what (and how much) needs to be removed from your tap water, you may well end up buying a whole lot more system than is necessary... or less than is really needed.
You can either do a lot of research and learn all about RO/DI systems and how they work, or you can hook up with a knowledgable guy like Russ, Air Water Ice, BRS, or a number of other helpful and experienced vendors. They will help you choose a system and media that will work best for your situation. But without some good basic info about what (and how much) needs to be removed from your tap water, you may well end up buying a whole lot more system than is necessary... or less than is really needed.
mucky1957
Active Member
Let me ask all of you a question please...at a rough estimate what does your RODI cost in the 1st year ( to buy the unit, salt, barrels, tubing,tds meter and all the bits that need replacing )..and having set it all up what do you think are your running costs in subsequent years...
JoshH
Tank Status: Wet...ish, growing things....
Me and @cromag27 must have missed this thread;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious I'll join you in reccomending spectrapure, I just finished upgrading my system and am loving it even more. Not that products like Buckeye, BRS, Vertex and Air Water Ice are horrible or anything and 1000's of reefers use them with success. Specteapure is something I've had from the beginning and have never been disappointed with them.
This is a pretty loaded question and would be difficult to provide an answer that would be relevant to your situation for regular usage. Units and setups can vary quite a bit as well as water conditions, everything would come into play like what type of water you're dealing with, how big your aquarium is, how much does water cost in your area, some pay sewer rates and some don't. While every one can chime in on there costs it probably won't narrow down costs for yourself. Now if you're looking for a VERY general estimate this might be of some use.... at the end of the day, the cost of a system and maintaining it is usually cheaper than buying from your LFS. Now if you have a nano aquarium this might not be the case as much and instead of the cost benefit you have to look at the benefit of knowing your water is 100% Pure vs relying on your LFS to ensure there system is maintained 100%
spectrapure user 14+ years and never a problem - rodi, ato, dosing. you can’t beat their quality and their products will save you money. nobody else in the industry has even close to the same quality control and proprietary systems in place as them. the ends results are higher efficiency, more pure water (it doesn’t stop at 0tds!), and you’re supporting the man who brought ro (before rodi) water to our hobby.
