What am I doing wrong?

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Max93

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Hello,

I’m looking to establish a dominant acropora reef, and my “tester corals” which are two green slimers and a red monti aren’t doing great. They were doing awesome in quarantine though! Same light, same salt mix, just smaller tank. Quarantine is ten gallons.

My tank and specs:

220g with sump
220 int reef octopus skimmer (running on lowest setting, skims out some serious skimmate)
10 fish
Various LPS that are doing good and zoas
Hydra 26 lights (four, two pucs on each)
I run chemipure blue (two big bags, rated for 75 gallons each bag so I’m doing under recommended amount)
Temp 77
BRS AB+ light setting, no modifications.
two icecap 4K gyres
Tank is now 9 months old, added acros at 8 months once I noticed parameters were stable.
Filter socks changed weekly or when clogged

parameters:

using salifert, and refractometer for SG at 1.026

alk: 8.0
Mg: 1200
Ca: 400
Nitrates: 5

it doesn’t matter when I test, it always is the same and I test every other day almost. I use an Auto doser.

I feed about two to three cubes of food a day, broadcast feed every time and also dose a bit of oyster feast.
My tank has zero algae anywhere other than what grows on the glass that I use magnet for.

the problem:

my slimer has burnt tips. Polyps are not as big and fluffy as they used to be in the quarantine tank.
Is my issue phosphates? It’s the only thing I haven’t tested..

I’ve been in this hobby for over 15 years and I’ve never been able to successfully grow acros. I got this massive tank in hopes that I was having issues due to nano tanks.

please let me know if you have questions, and thank you for helping !!
 
Here is a pic. It’s also lost color, turned a bit pale.
 

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Thanks for the quick reply!! What should my phosphates read and how do I increase/decrease them? I feel like I’m over feeding my tank as it is with 3 cubes a day
 
Following to see what folks say. Issues like this have plagued us; 20g QT and 40g DT. All corals do great in the QT and die in the DT despite similar parameters so we did the same thing thing as you; bought a 200g “forever” DT we’re working on setting up instead.

One word on phosphate tests; be careful what brand you buy. Salifert doesn’t distinguish at the low levels and isn’t the easiest to read, even though I prefer their nitrate test vs. API. Hanna might be the way to go long term but I haven’t looked into all the brands.

That said, I kind of doubt it’s phosphate. One question…what about light? Especially with burnt tips like that. Lighting is definitely going to be different from QT to DT. Did you slowly light acclimate?
 
So I use the exact same light in the quarantine and in the display. The AI primes.
In the quarantine, they’re probably 10” off of the coral and they were encrusting on the eggcrate.
In the display prob 15” or more from the lights. I’m definitely not cooking them, it’s less par more than likely since it’s deeper.

the quarantine is one puc. And the display the lights have 2 pucs.

I did just purchase a Hannah checker for phosphates. I’ll update this week to see what it reads at.

any other ideas?
 
I would look into a par meter. You really can’t tell what it’s at otherwise. I had some huge surprises when I got one. Helped my tank a lot.
 
I would look into a par meter. You really can’t tell what it’s at otherwise. I had some huge surprises when I got one. Helped my tank a lot.
Definitely should just test everything. I’ll rent one right now.
 
I definitely recommend the Hanna ultra low Phosphate checker but I don’t recommend 0.03-0.05. Aim for 0.10-0.15

I’m a hydra 52 and 26 hd user with a par meter and can almost guarantee 4-26 HD’s running AB+ over a 200g tank will not be enough light for long term….probably not even enough for short term.

I also recommend researching previous posts made from the ppl offering advice. Now I know they are just trying to help, but there are ppl with no sps experience chiming in here
 
I definitely recommend the Hanna ultra low Phosphate checker but I don’t recommend 0.03-0.05. Aim for 0.10-0.15

I’m a hydra 52 and 26 hd user with a par meter and can almost guarantee 4-26 HD’s running AB+ over a 200g tank will not be enough light for long term….probably not even enough for short term.

I also recommend researching previous posts made from the ppl offering advice. Now I know they are just trying to help, but there are ppl with no sps experience chiming in here
I didn’t get the ultra low, I got the regular version do you think that’s fine or should I change my order?

I intend on making these lights a T5 hybrid as the acros grow, I wouldn’t imagine that being for another two years or so at this rate, I Think, haha.

it looks like it may be too much light though, with the tips burnt, growing algae and losing color? Also polyps shrinking.

no pests for sure, frags came from other hobbyists successful tank and I did 30 months of quarantine and two dips of Bayer.
 
Picture of tank
 

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I didn’t get the ultra low, I got the regular version do you think that’s fine or should I change my order?

I intend on making these lights a T5 hybrid as the acros grow, I wouldn’t imagine that being for another two years or so at this rate, I Think, haha.

it looks like it may be too much light though, with the tips burnt, growing algae and losing color? Also polyps shrinking.

no pests for sure, frags came from other hobbyists successful tank and I did 30 months of quarantine and two dips of Bayer.
Definitely get the ultra low range

Burnt tips doesn’t too much “par”. It could mean you’re hot spotting the corals if the lights are mounted too low. It could also mean you’re over stripping your water, regardless of what your no3/po4 readings are. Oversized skimming, gfo, carbon dosing etc usually causes it, especially if you have elevated alk. My corals look their best in 5-30 no3 and 0.10-0.20 po4.

I would get rid of the chemipure for now. Let us know what your Po4 readings are when the checker arrives.
 
Definitely get the ultra low range

Burnt tips doesn’t too much “par”. It could mean you’re hot spotting the corals if the lights are mounted too low. It could also mean you’re over stripping your water, regardless of what your no3/po4 readings are. Oversized skimming, gfo, carbon dosing etc usually causes it, especially if you have elevated alk. My corals look their best in 5-30 no3 and 0.10-0.20 po4.

I would get rid of the chemipure for now. Let us know what your Po4 readings are when the checker arrives.
Thank you. Before I remove the chemipure-

I kept having very cloudy water, and I don’t know what it was. Water changes wouldn’t clear it. When I put the chemipure blue, it removed it and I have crystal clear water again.

I removed chemipure blue after it cleared and it came back again.

still remove it?
 
Your lights look like they’re at the proper mounting height. The ab+ Is awesome on the 52 hds but not powerful enough on the 26’s. I have 2-26’s on a 29g biocube qt and they only deliver 250 par in the middle of the tank. My 50g display has 2-52 HD’s and some of my acros are in 500 par and never get burnt tips.
 
Thank you. Before I remove the chemipure-

I kept having very cloudy water, and I don’t know what it was. Water changes wouldn’t clear it. When I put the chemipure blue, it removed it and I have crystal clear water again.

I removed chemipure blue after it cleared and it came back again.

still remove it?
You need to find out what’s clouding your water. What all are you dosing?
 
You need to find out what’s clouding your water. What all are you dosing?
All I dose is:

magnesium
Alk
Calcium

oyster feast twice a day since my nitrates are at five.
I feed reef frenzy and rods food.

that’s it.
 
That, two filter socks, and 10% water changes bi-weekly.
I don’t know what could be causing that. I’ve never had obviously “cloudy” water. Sounds like a bacterial bloom but can’t be sure.

It’s bed time for me
Good night for now
 

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