What are the perfect parameters to start adding coral

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Copied from the duplicate thread:

Are you really wanting "perfect", or are you asking "good enough"?

Perfection is not well defined and certainly varies by organism.

Appropriate target levels (IMO):

PH: 7.8 to 8.55
Alk: 7-11 dKH
Magn: 1280-1400 ppm
Calcium: 400-550 ppm
NH2: no such thing
NH3: 0.1 ppm total ammonia or less (unless you are carefully dosing and controlling it)

 

[SlugSnorter]

I did say ‘provided the parameters are correct, and you know what your doing’

Its hard to wait, people will latch onto info that helps them cut it down. He said he was a newbie to the hobby, and even with hours and hours of research it doesn't mean you have all the skills you need.

 

[muzikalmatt]

Its hard to wait, people will latch onto info that helps them cut it down. He said he was a newbie to the hobby, and even with hours and hours of research it doesn't mean you have all the skills you need.

Very true. I did a ton of research before I even got my first tank, let alone started adding things. In the end though, I think you learn more by doing and observing in this hobby. While research is extremely important and getting advice is highly recommended, eventually you just have to try and fail...and you're going to fail in this hobby at some point, it's just how it is. But much like life, that's how you learn and get better.

 

[frankieg2293]

He described himself as a new salt water hobbyist so pretty safe to conclude that your suggestion is not applicable. We all know novice reefers myself included take many months for their tanks to mature and parameters stabilize to allow for good coral environment and growth. If you just start placing frags in a new tank and you are new to the hobby it never ends well.

Good luck with that, at least you will gain experience. We will see you on here in a month or two asking how to clear a 220g system of GHA, cyano and or dinos.

light are back off. Lol what is GHA?

 

[ninjamyst]

You can add soft corals a few days after tank is wet. People will flame me for saying this....but waiting 4 months to add some zoas is ridiculously stupid advice. Don't start adding in acros or $500 torches but you can start adding easy soft corals within a week or two, assuming you mixed your salt correctly and you started with reef safe rocks.

 

[frankieg2293]

Copied from the duplicate thread:

Are you really wanting "perfect", or are you asking "good enough"?

Perfection is not well defined and certainly varies by organism.

Appropriate target levels (IMO):

PH: 7.8 to 8.55
Alk: 7-11 dKH
Magn: 1280-1400 ppm
Calcium: 400-550 ppm
NH2: no such thing
NH3: 0.1 ppm total ammonia or less (unless you are carefully dosing and controlling it)

What you mean by “ NH3: 0.1 ppm total ammonia or less (unless you are carefully dosing and controlling it)” you lost me there.

 

[SlugSnorter]

Good luck with that, at least you will gain experience. We will see you on here in a month or two asking how to clear a 220g system of GHA, cyano and or dinos.

dry rock tank... diatoms are there either way. At least with light you can start developing coraline. This tank will face uglies either way.

 

[SlugSnorter]

What you mean by “ NH3: 0.1 ppm total ammonia or less (unless you are carefully dosing and controlling it)” you lost me there.

he says less than 0.1 ppm of ammonia unless you are doing some specific situations

 

[SlugSnorter]

you can leave them on, GHA = green hair algae. Cyano and Diatoms will show up either way when the lights are on, idk about GHA typically appearing. Also, with lights on your inverts will have some food from the algae.

 

[frankieg2293]

he says less than 0.1 ppm of ammonia unless you are doing some specific situations

My ammonia is at .25 right now. I was thinking about vodka dosing (as we were discussing in my last thread.)i haven’t started yet.

 

[Jekyl]

My ammonia is at .25 right now. I was thinking about vodka dosing (as we were discussing in my last thread.)i haven’t started yet.

That just sounds like you're using API to test. Don't start vodka dosing.

 

[SlugSnorter]

My ammonia is at .25 right now. I was thinking about vodka dosing (as we were discussing in my last thread.)i haven’t started yet.

Vodka dosing is not a great move, if your using API it could just be API weirdness, i recommend getting either Sailfert or Hanna Checkers

 

[bobnicaragua]

I would add established live rock and soft corals right now. It's common to find live rock from tank break downs at local fish stores, often with corals still attached. Keep your photo period limited to 8 hours for now.

Rock rubble and sand from established tanks would also help.

If you add some mushrooms and zoas to start, just keep up with your water changes and they should do fine.

Biodiversity comes from the ocean, live rock, corals, etc.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

What you mean by “ NH3: 0.1 ppm total ammonia or less (unless you are carefully dosing and controlling it)” you lost me there.

I mean a beginner doesn't want significant ammonia and I'd say less than 0.1 ppm total ammonia.

Some advanced reefers dose ammonia as a source of nitrogen for corals, and those folks are doing it slowly and carefully and might be Ok going to 0.1 ppm.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

My ammonia is at .25 right now. I was thinking about vodka dosing (as we were discussing in my last thread.)i haven’t started yet.

Have you been tracking the ammonia? 0.25 ppm is sometimes a false value that some kits always show.

 

[Lavey29]

dry rock tank... diatoms are there either way. At least with light you can start developing coraline. This tank will face uglies either way.

Diatoms are easy. Until you get balanced consistent parameters in the tank with enough corals to use available nutrients you are just going to be feeding algae with light and fish poop. This will lead to big GHA problems and then an unknowing reefer will start dumping chemicals in and bottom everything out then the cyano and dinos will take over. Coraline will not start in quantity until 6 months or more if you have a stabil tank. Yes uglies will come either way but just depends if you want a battle or just a little skirmish.

 

[frankieg2293]

Vodka dosing is not a great move, if your using API it could just be API weirdness, i recommend getting either Sailfert or Hanna Checkers

I’m confused with the Hanna when it comes to low range and high range testers . Should I get the high range so it tests all ranges? Does it matter?

 

[SlugSnorter]

I’m confused with the Hanna when it comes to low range and high range testers . Should I get the high range so it tests all ranges? Does it matter?

Low Range - Ultra high precision at a lower ranger, better for older reef that needs super precise testing for delicate corals

High Range - Larger range of tests, slightly less accurate, better for the average hobbyist

 

[Bruce Burnett]

In my own personal experience, with a new tank I wouldn't add coral until 6 months or later if using dry rock. Too many parameter swings and algae going on until around then. I also will never use dry rock again for the same reasons. I had an awful time (some as my own fault) during my first year with corals.

Used dry rock and had corals as soon as it had completed cycle. Never had algae but did have a dino outbreak. Which I got cleared up in three days but then not a newbie. I tell people just getting in to read some books. Watch Brs videos, read more books and group sites like this one and wait until you have some stability and coralline algae growing which could run 3-9 months. That way they have experienced a few things. Hate seeing new people get into hobby, kill a bunch of livestock then get frustrated and give up.

 

[rckfsh44]

My experience is patience and more patience . I have a 120 gallon that’s been running for 14 months and I’m just starting to add some Acros