Crashjack
Well-Known Member
As far as dinos vs. cyano is concerned, though it is best to confirm with a microscope, rule of thumb is that cyano typically forms mats that you can see peel off (they remind me of very thin crepes), and you might see some air bubbles. Dinos on the other hand, look like snot with air bubbles (lots of air bubbles), that rise up off the sand while still attached to the sand. Both are often brown, sometimes looking red, though cyano often looks more "red" than dinos, and cyano can be blue-green and probably other colors. Dinos often disappear after tank lights are off, while cyano might recedes but doesn't usually disappear.
Assuming this is a reef, your alk is a little high, especially with your Ca being that low. I would decrease alk to at least 10 dkh and then get Ca over 400. You also mention Mg being low, but I don't see a reading. I would try to keep mg at 1300+. Your phosphate reading is important because if it is nil, it is possible your nitrates are also nil and just within the margin of error of your test kit. Near nil nitrates and phosphates is very often a sign of dinos, and don't let the hair algae fool you. However, cyano can cause a nitrate depletion without affecting phosphate much. Therefore, if your phosphate measures, let's say a little under .1 or higher, it is likely cyano reducing your nitrates.
The reason this is important is because battling dinos involves raising nitrate/phosphate to higher levels, where dealing with cyano is different. A quick/easy way to remove cyano is to add Chemiclean. Definitely follow the instructions on the box, and you will need to make sure your tank remains aerated as Chemiclean causes some oxygen depletion. If cyano comes back after a week or so, give it a second dose. I would also beef-up your cleaning crew after treatment as this will help keep cyano in check (will do nothing for dinos).
Assuming this is a reef, your alk is a little high, especially with your Ca being that low. I would decrease alk to at least 10 dkh and then get Ca over 400. You also mention Mg being low, but I don't see a reading. I would try to keep mg at 1300+. Your phosphate reading is important because if it is nil, it is possible your nitrates are also nil and just within the margin of error of your test kit. Near nil nitrates and phosphates is very often a sign of dinos, and don't let the hair algae fool you. However, cyano can cause a nitrate depletion without affecting phosphate much. Therefore, if your phosphate measures, let's say a little under .1 or higher, it is likely cyano reducing your nitrates.
The reason this is important is because battling dinos involves raising nitrate/phosphate to higher levels, where dealing with cyano is different. A quick/easy way to remove cyano is to add Chemiclean. Definitely follow the instructions on the box, and you will need to make sure your tank remains aerated as Chemiclean causes some oxygen depletion. If cyano comes back after a week or so, give it a second dose. I would also beef-up your cleaning crew after treatment as this will help keep cyano in check (will do nothing for dinos).
