What causes LPS corals to be unhappy?

[Skynyrd Fish]

An established tank should be able to process ammonia quickly. So I don't really buy into this theory as others do. Its always possible. For me, LPS dwindle due to lack of nutrition.

 

[Lavey29]

An established tank should be able to process ammonia quickly. So I don't really buy into this theory as others do. Its always possible. For me, LPS dwindle due to lack of nutrition.

I don't think there is a nutrients problem but without an ICP test I'm not sure about trace elements. Water changes should keep those consistent though and I dose chaeto 2x a week.

I did recently bring my refugium online with chaeto the past 3 weeks which kind of corresponded to my LPS being irritated. I was looking for a natural method to maintain nitrates and phosphate numbers and keep PH more consistent.

Would the chaeto with a 12 hour overnight light cycle cause any of this?

 

[((FORDTECH))]

The past week. I noticed some decline in my LPS corals who had been thriving the past few months. My parameters are very stabil and I do not think this has any direct nexus. I lost a torch head, couple zoa heads and couple duncan heads. All the other corals do not seem completely happy either.

The only change has been adding diffusers to my XR15 lights. I increased the intensity by 15% to compensate for the diffusers.

Do you think the lighting change is the source of my problems? Perhaps some pests are attacking my corals? I have 4 wrasses in the tank to hunt for pests. I have not seen my cleaner crew messing with anything.

It's like everything was perfect and now it's not.

Thoughts?

For what it’s worth let me put this in perspective for you. I have radions and I have a par meter. And I have tested this. For every 1-2% increase on the radion the par increased about 10 par so 15% increase is anywhere from 150-300 par obviously 300 par being the extreme. Even with 150 par let’s say diffuser took 50% of that you still did a 70-80 par increase. Now with that being said most my lps only are in 70-110 par and you increased yours by 70-80 over night. I’m sure that’s enough you tick off some lps. Again just my opinion from my own experiences.

 

[Aqua Man]

Water changes should keep those consistent though and I dose chaeto 2x a week.

I’d do larger water change as suggested. Maybe too much chaeto grow in the system. Refresh your GAC.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

Now with all that being said I’m sure an increase like that with par in combination with low nutrients will cause major issues with lps.
What is your exact phosphates and nitrate numbers with quality test kits? Should be at least 10-15 nitrates and .1-.2 phosphates at least

 

[brmreefer]

I would get an ICP done to verify parameters. Not saying human error exists here, but best to rule it out and make adjustments based on information provided by an ICP versus taking a WAG at it.

Now going in a slightly different direction here, but still somewhat in the same arena.
Personal Experience of Human Error: Had a colony of Forest Fire Digi STN'ing. Tried dipping and fragging portions with no luck and still STN'ing. Bought an expensive floating hydrometer and found out I was running at a higher salinity than preferred (1.027ish). In addition, I decided to increase flow to it just to experiment. Since adjusting to 1.0255 and more flow, it had improved and has started growing new branches. I also adjusted my refractometer to match the hydrometer every two weeks or so from now on, so no more calibration fluid from here on out. Is this the cause of improvement...I don't know, but since I usually make few changes at a time it makes it hard not to give credit to one of or either adjustment in this instance.

Mainly what I was getting to is try an ICP and at least verify, but do note that everyone's system is different, so a whole new slew of issues could exist for someone else. I would also borrow/rent a PAR meter just to check lighting. Hope you figure it out.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I don't think there is a nutrients problem but without an ICP test I'm not sure about trace elements. Water changes should keep those consistent though and I dose chaeto 2x a week.

I did recently bring my refugium online with chaeto the past 3 weeks which kind of corresponded to my LPS being irritated. I was looking for a natural method to maintain nitrates and phosphate numbers and keep PH more consistent.

Would the chaeto with a 12 hour overnight light cycle cause any of this?

Read my post number 23

 

[Woodyman]

You already have some good info above, but one thing I noticed with your stocking list that gave me an issue in the past.. Starfish - what type?

I only ask because I had one in my tank, I had some problems like you mentioned but mine were limited to zoa frags and 1 hammer coral.. they were all 3 near each other in my frag rack. I couldn't pin anything down and one night got up randomly and looked at the tank, my starfish was slowly killing and eating zoa's mainly the tiny buds I assume because I didn't notice any missing heads of the established ones. I knocked him off and the next morning I moved him to the sump.

No problems since.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

just putting it out there since everything looks good, but how are your machines? I once found my corals unhappy for a few days before I noticed one of my powerheads had failed. Once I fixed that they perked right up again. Anyway, good luck.

 

[Lavey29]

For what it’s worth let me put this in perspective for you. I have radions and I have a par meter. And I have tested this. For every 1-2% increase on the radion the par increased about 10 par so 15% increase is anywhere from 150-300 par obviously 300 par being the extreme. Even with 150 par let’s say diffuser took 50% of that you still did a 70-80 par increase. Now with that being said most my lps only are in 70-110 par and you increased yours by 70-80 over night. I’m sure that’s enough you tick off some lps. Again just my opinion from my own experiences.

None of my LFS have a par meter. Can you please provide your tank dimensions and which radions you have along with your schedule and intensity?

I was running AB plus program at 50% schedule before the diffusers.

 

[Lavey29]

You already have some good info above, but one thing I noticed with your stocking list that gave me an issue in the past.. Starfish - what type?

I only ask because I had one in my tank, I had some problems like you mentioned but mine were limited to zoa frags and 1 hammer coral.. they were all 3 near each other in my frag rack. I couldn't pin anything down and one night got up randomly and looked at the tank, my starfish was slowly killing and eating zoa's mainly the tiny buds I assume because I didn't notice any missing heads of the established ones. I knocked him off and the next morning I moved him to the sump.

No problems since.

Perhaps, I have 2 orange Leicas and a sand sifter. They have been in the tank at least 4 months with no issues but do sleep in the zoas sometime.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

None of my LFS have a par meter. Can you please provide your tank dimensions and which radions you have along with your schedule and intensity?

I was running AB plus program at 50% schedule before the diffusers.

Par meter or not you can take the info I gave you and apply it to your tank. Sounds to me like you had no issues before the diffuser and you still do t want to accept you turned light up to much. Yes I can provide you that info

 

[Lavey29]

just putting it out there since everything looks good, but how are your machines? I once found my corals unhappy for a few days before I noticed one of my powerheads had failed. Once I fixed that they perked right up again. Anyway, good luck.

My MP40s seem fine. The outside cover has a lot of coraline so I haven't cleaned them recently because I'm trying to get coraline really established in the tank.

 

[Lavey29]

Par meter or not you can take the info I gave you and apply it to your tank. Sounds to me like you had no issues before the diffuser and you still do t want to accept you turned light up to much. Yes I can provide you that info

I have decreased the intensity back to the pre diffuser level to see if that makes a positive improvement.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

None of my LFS have a par meter. Can you please provide your tank dimensions and which radions you have along with your schedule and intensity?

I was running AB plus program at 50% schedule before the diffusers.

Even tho our tank setups may differ the info I provided you is still valuable. I have a 120gal 48x24x25tall I run 2 g30 radion and they are only at 27%. When I did this par testing I only had 2 radions I’ve since then added 4 t5s for a hybrid setup. Radions still at 27%

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I am running a modified ab+ pretty much lowered all the white light a little.

 

[Lavey29]

I would get an ICP done to verify parameters. Not saying human error exists here, but best to rule it out and make adjustments based on information provided by an ICP versus taking a WAG at it.

Now going in a slightly different direction here, but still somewhat in the same arena.
Personal Experience of Human Error: Had a colony of Forest Fire Digi STN'ing. Tried dipping and fragging portions with no luck and still STN'ing. Bought an expensive floating hydrometer and found out I was running at a higher salinity than preferred (1.027ish). In addition, I decided to increase flow to it just to experiment. Since adjusting to 1.0255 and more flow, it had improved and has started growing new branches. I also adjusted my refractometer to match the hydrometer every two weeks or so from now on, so no more calibration fluid from here on out. Is this the cause of improvement...I don't know, but since I usually make few changes at a time it makes it hard not to give credit to one of or either adjustment in this instance.

Mainly what I was getting to is try an ICP and at least verify, but do note that everyone's system is different, so a whole new slew of issues could exist for someone else. I would also borrow/rent a PAR meter just to check lighting. Hope you figure it out.

After I get out of the hospital from surgery, I will get an ICP. I used a millwaulki instruments digital refractometer which I will double check for calibration. I try to maintain 1.026 with coral pro salt.

 

[((FORDTECH))]

I have decreased the intensity back to the pre diffuser level to see if that makes a positive improvement.

I’d say it could be increase maybe 3-5 % to be equal par to before diffusers. No more then that

 

[Lavey29]

Even tho our tank setups may differ the info I provided you is still valuable. I have a 120gal 48x24x25tall I run 2 g30 radion and they are only at 27%. When I did this par testing I only had 2 radions I’ve since then added 4 t5s for a hybrid setup. Radions still at 27%

So for 27% intensity you are running maybe 40% schedule in mobius?

 

[((FORDTECH))]

So for 27% intensity you are running maybe 40% schedule in mobius?

So when I first got my radions that all was very confusing to me. I end up setting all my point intensity sliders to mainly 100% for part of the day that is full sun. Then to make sun rise and sun set I lowered some of the sliders for the time periods that I needed then now I only control the schedule slider to increase or decrease the whole day par at one time. Hope you can understand how I wrote this. Here is a pic