What controller is right for me

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Just checked out your build thread. Man, you put a lot of work into and it really shows!

You've also convinced me ReefKeeper, for me, is the way to go.
What are looking for in the controller? What are the goals for it? I think I may go same route
 
What are looking for in the controller? What are the goals for it? I think I may go same route
Pretty basic right now - a timer for lights, a temp controller for redundancy, maybe a ph probe and hook up a dosing pump when I decide to add corals (going softy and maybe some lps). That's it for now. I'm sure I'll add more as time goes on.
 
OK, updated data.Unfortunately my pH does not have enough swing for the one with hysteresis of .1 to turn off after it turned on. First screenshot is pH reading, second is output with .1 hysteresis and third is output with no hysteresis. You will want to use hysteresis but since you are actually controlling something you should have no trouble getting the pH high enough to turn off the output. Let us know when you get it working.

pH 10-4-17.jpg

CO2 Output1 10-4-17.jpg

CO2 Output2 10-4-17.jpg
 
I was advised to get nothing less than an apex classic in order to control a solenoid for skimmer.?
 
The lowest hysteresis setting is .1 at this time. I will ask Eric if it is possible to get a lower resolution for it. basically if you set the target to 8.0 it will trip at 7.9 and 8.1. It could be either on or off depending on how you program it. You do not have to use hysteresis but keeps the output from cycling on and off quickly.

I was advised to get nothing less than an apex classic in order to control a solenoid for skimmer.?
It is probably from an Apex user. Most controllers will control a Solenoid.
 
Here is a list I'm looking through.
Apex Classic
DA Reef Keeper Elite
Milwaukee DL122
Aquatronica
Profilux
DA Archon

Thoughts?
 
I have an Elite I purchased in 2008. I have not been using it since I got the Archon. There is a big difference between the them. I have no experience with the others. If you can swing the price difference I would go with the Archon over the Elite. The Archon itself has 2 ports that can be configured as either ORP or pH inputs, 1 temp input, 4 switch inputs, 4 0-10v outputs and 2 PWM outputs. It has built in wifi and wired networking. If you are not upgrading a RKE or RKL you can get the choice of either 2 PB4 or a PB8. The PB 4 has 4 outlet and the PB8 has 8 outlets. Either way you would have 8 outlets. If you want salinity then you would need a SL2v2 module and a Salinity probe.
 
I say go for the Archon you will have a great time with it and it is easy to use and can be checked and adjusted anywhere in the world with your phone laptop tablet or computer
 
I have narrowed it down but I really don't want to make a mistake purchase again lol. Have done quite a few in the last decade. So one more quick question. I realize I really am showing my severe lack of knowledge with controllers.
Out of remaining list what systems can both accurately read and Control PH to the Hundredths value? As in 8.22.
DA Archon
Aquatronica
Profilux 4
Reef Angel Star
 
I got with Eric at DA on this. He is looking into it for us. I explained what you trying to do. He said it may be as simple as changing the limitation from tenths to hundredths. I will post when I hear back from him. By the way the Archon is a Linux based system.
 
I got with Eric at DA on this. He is looking into it for us. I explained what you trying to do. He said it may be as simple as changing the limitation from tenths to hundredths. I will post when I hear back from him. By the way the Archon is a Linux based system.
Thank you, I really appreciate your time with this!
 
The lowest hysteresis setting is .1 at this time. I will ask Eric if it is possible to get a lower resolution for it. basically if you set the target to 8.0 it will trip at 7.9 and 8.1. It could be either on or off depending on how you program it. You do not have to use hysteresis but keeps the output from cycling on and off quickly.

It is probably from an Apex user. Most controllers will control a Solenoid.

Ouch.

I am curious either way though, why did you eliminate the Apex?

I think he meant nothing less than an Apex Classic, not an Apex Jr. But I agree, most if not all controllers will control a solenoid.

I am an avid Apex user, and have been for many years. I have no stake in Apex, but I stand by their products and customer service.

If you went with the Apex Classic, you'd be up and running in a matter of minutes with this. It controls pH down to 8.22, no problem. On BRS for $550. Same as Archo

If you went with the Apex Jr., you would need the VDM module and pH probe, so on BRS, you're looking at $365 for everything. And, you'd still be up and running in a matter of minutes, controlling your pH down to 8.22. Literally minutes.

Or, you can go big and get the 2016 Apex, for 800 bucks, and be ready to go when the Triton comes out next year, but I assume that's outside the price target. (It's outside mine, hah)

If you're new to controllers, they have entry level guided setups for everything, it's best in class stuff. I just helped with an Apex install for a local reef buddy, using only the "Tasks", and it really is simple to use and operate. Plus there's a literal army of folks who are willing to help should issues arise.


And, for what it's worth, if I was going to be purchasing anything this expensive, it's going to come from a big box store or Amazon with a very clear and robust return / exchange policy. I clicked around on a couple of the distributors and am taken to godaddy sites and broken links. Sketchy at best.
 
The Archon level one is 549.99 directly from Digital Aquatics. http://www.digitalaquatics.org/store/archon. It comes with the Archon and 2 PB4 power bars. A pH probe and a temp probe. The Archon has 2 pH or ORP ports, temp port, 4 switch input ports, 4 0-10v output ports and 2 PWM output ports. It has built in wifi and wired net connections. The only issue at this time is setting the hysterisis to 100th resolution. I cannot say anything about the other ones listed.

jml1149, I was not trying to knock the Apex in any way. It is just that it is not the only way you can go to do what the OP is trying. In fact I may try this myself as my pH is a little lower than I would like. The only thing that stops me is the Skimmer already draws air from outside the house.
 
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Ph daily swing is perfectly fine as long as it stays between 8 and 8.4. Really even 7.9-8.4 will have very few if any noticeable effects.
 
jml1149, I was not trying to knock the Apex in any way. It is just that it is not the only way you can go to do what the OP is trying. In fact I may try this myself as my pH is a little lower than I would like. The only thing that stops me is the Skimmer already draws air from outside the house.

Haha, people get passionate about their reef gear, that's for sure huh? I'm fighting this same battle now. I think I'm going to try a massive chaeto reactor and a super powered light.

Ph daily swing is perfectly fine as long as it stays between 8 and 8.4. Really even 7.9-8.4 will have very few if any noticeable effects.


Nah man, the OP is SPOT ON. A swing from 7.9 to 8.4 is probably fine, but a pH that never waivers from 8.3 is PERFECT and CONSISTENT. I applaud his efforts to attain this consistency. He will be thrilled with the results.
 
Haha, people get passionate about their reef gear, that's for sure huh? I'm fighting this same battle now. I think I'm going to try a massive chaeto reactor and a super powered light.




Nah man, the OP is SPOT ON. A swing from 7.9 to 8.4 is probably fine, but a pH that never waivers from 8.3 is PERFECT and CONSISTENT. I applaud his efforts to attain this consistency. He will be thrilled with the results.

No evidence of that at all.. most parameters do not need perfect consistency like ORP, pH, calcium, magnesium, salinity, temperature, alkalinity, potassium, PAR, nitrates, phosphates, .... and literally almost every parameter. Striving for an imaginary perfect number will not improve your tank and more than likely will only lead to uneccessary stress, excessive monitoring and poor results. That’s why there are “ideal ranges” and not ideal numbers.
 
No evidence of that at all.. most parameters do not need perfect consistency like ORP, pH, calcium, magnesium, salinity, temperature, alkalinity, potassium, PAR, nitrates, phosphates, .... and literally almost every parameter. Striving for an imaginary perfect number will not improve your tank and more than likely will only lead to uneccessary stress, excessive monitoring and poor results. That’s why there are “ideal ranges” and not ideal numbers.

I wish you great success with your tank, but this has veered too far off topic. Happy to start another thread and discuss if you're interested though!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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