what do i need to know about bare bottom reef tanks

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Joe G

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I am def going bare bottom on my new 80 gal shallow tank.
I have never done bare bottom before and would love some solid advice on how to do it right from the start.
want to know the good and bad aspects of going bare bottom.




I also plan on using less rock then I normally use.
so I'm a little concerned with not having enough bio filtration.


What gear is needed?
I bought black star board yesterday.
I have a Hugh skimmer.
Nice space in the sump I can play with.
Should I add sand or rock to sump Uv or no uv ?


Basically any and all advise from those who are running successful bare bottom reefs sps dominated .
Thanks
 
Following along, I too, want a bare bottom, sps dominant tank.
 
I set mine up a few months back. To compensate for the lack of nutrient removal with a dsb I chose to have a biopellet reactor, skimmer and a fuge with a ball of cheato. I do have about 50lbs of live rock between the display and sump. My biggest problem with it has been the little bits of rock the hermits knock off and collect on the bottom. I'm just too lazy to get in there and siphon it all out.
 
I have a bare bottom tank, I moved all my sand to the refugium to give me a 6" dsb. Going on a year now. No complaints as of yet, I love how clean I can get the bottom glass.
 
Its not the waste that collects for me. Its tiny bits of rock that falls off my live rock.
 
So besides having to clean the detritus and rock sediment there is no difference on how the two systems are run?
 
it may be obvious but worth mentioning not to keep wrasses, gobys or any inverts that need a sand bed to thrive.

besides that make sure your rock scape is planted firmly on the bottom glass as there isn't much to keep it stable
 
it may be obvious but worth mentioning not to keep wrasses, gobys or any inverts that need a sand bed to thrive.

besides that make sure your rock scape is planted firmly on the bottom glass as there isn't much to keep it stable

Not entirely true. My mystery wrasse picks a spot in the live rock and makes his little sleeping bed there. Now a new wrasse that is getting acclimated to aquarium life would probably have a tough time especially if it need to hide from troublesome tank mates.
 
sounds like you have a unique experience with that one. I agree though, wrasses can be done but with extreme cation
 
I've ran a 400 gallon BB SPS reef since 2005. The key is siphoning frequently. Do NOT get lazy. The benefit of a BB system IMHO and IME is that you can really keep the tank pristine. If you want to have corals encrust on the bottom, you will need a TON of flow across the bottom of the tank. I wish that there was a product in the hobby that was a quasi vacuum that allowed us to suck out all the detritus off of the bottom of the tank by separating the particulate size by various filters. You could do quick cleaning to really help the health of your aquarium. Sometimes if I let the siphoning go, my 100 gallon water change doesn't allow me enough time to get all of the bottom as effectively as I would like to so I end up with a bigger water change and I expose the corals to the air for longer periods of time. This is no problem for the Acropora, and Montipora, but Seriatopora doesn't do so well as it dries out really fast. I am upgrading my system. https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/large-aquariums-180g/88708-servos-850-gallon-upgrade.html and I am going to go bare bottom again. You will notice that the rock will "shed" for about the first year. After that, most of the "crap on the bottom" is small coral frags that the fish frag and die on the bottom and occasional snail shells with detritus. These objects can make siphoning a bit of a challenge. (the larger diameter of a hose the better).

_you can never have too much flow (creating a gyre as well as placing powerhead for flow across the bottom of the tank
-siphon, siphon-siphon


I haven't had much of an issue with detritus getting stuck under the starboard. (this isn't really necessary, but provides a better look than a glass bottom)

Good Luck!
 
Thanks guys.
I do have a wrasse but I bought a wrasse den for her.
It's a rock that u put sand in where the wrasse can sleep.
I bought it from somebody on the forum.
As far as flow goes I will have plenty .
2 mp10 and 1 mp40 on a eighty gall tank .
I won't get lazy with the siphoning I've been in the hobby 5 years now and have done a water change every week since the day one .

Thanks everyone on the input
 
With the siphoning I use filter sock in the sump to drain the siphon water into. This way I can siphon without doing a water change.
 
With the siphoning I use filter sock in the sump to drain the siphon water into. This way I can siphon without doing a water change.

As the tank ages the detritus gets smaller and smaller and Ends up back in the water column. At least that's my experience. I feel like I'm sweeping under the rug. I need a three stage vacuum filter with a diatom filter at the end.
 
So basically over time it becomes more difficult to get all the detritus out .
Do u guys feel like your nutrients are much lower over time then using a sand bed?
Do u guys feel like u get better color in your sps do to lower nutrients ?
 
So basically over time it becomes more difficult to get all the detritus out .
Do u guys feel like your nutrients are much lower over time then using a sand bed?
Do u guys feel like u get better color in your sps do to lower nutrients ?

I have found I get better color with a small amount of nutrients than with no nutrients.

Won't three detritus be easily skimmed out once its floating about in the water column?

To remove the nitrate in my bare bottom I chose to add a biopellet reactor to replace the sandbed. I also built a fuge so that I can put a big ball of cheato in there. I decided a multifaceted approach to nutrient removal as I think it would be the best for me.
 
Things to consider with a bare bottom tank

Bare bottom tanks definitely have their pros, cons and special considerations. A few things that I've learned over my year of going bare bottom is you don't really need star board, you need to have special consideration for marine life, you need to plan for detritus removal, you might be suprised where your coraline grows, you may notice live rock shedding and your aquascaping may get a little rocky.
It seems that a lot of people think you need star board to go bare bottom. If you ask yourself why do I need star board? The only logical explanation is to protect the bottom glass. I've seen plenty of tanks with glass bare bottoms with the rock right on the glass. If I were to go at it again I'd lay a thin agrocrette bottom right on the glass.
Once you've gone bare it should be obvious that sand dwellers are not going to be happy and other fish may be bothered as well, such as wrasses. I do know that the lined wrasse do not need sand beds so not all wrasse are off limits. Do your homework before you buy your fish. Another thing I've noticed is that hermit crabs seem to have a hard time gripping a bare bottom. I've seen them get blown helplessly on the bottom. You may want think twice about your invert selection as well. A lot of stars are detrivors, no detritus equals no food. On the coral side of things you may want to think twice before mounting an encrusting chalice or other encrusting coral on the bare bottom. The reasons being is there is no way to frag your tank bottom and prune your coral back helping to avoid coral warfar.
A benefit to going bare bottom is detritus removal. If you set your scape up with a little forethought you can create detritus traps in corners where you can easily siphon it out. I chose to go with star board and leave a 1" gap in between the front glass and side panels as Detritus trap. I am very happy with the functionality of this system. With enough flow you can suspend most of your detritus and catch it in filter socks. It seems that the water flows faster in a bare bottom setup as well.
Coraline algae is something we all want our tanks to be covered in. However, the white bare bottom star board seems too bright for deep dark purple coraline to grow. Instead, I notice the coraline growing on the starboard under shelves and in caves the most. I would bet that if you used black for your bottom the coraline would grow much better.
If your converting your sand bottom tank to a barebottom tank be prepared for the shed. The weeks following the transformation you will get a suprisingly large amount of sand that you'll want to siphon off the bottom. After the initial shed you'll still want to siphon occasionally as the rock seems to always shed a little.
Lastly, aquascaping on a bare bottom setup will immediately pose some issues. If you're using starboard your probably going to find out that it floats. To get around this I siliconed mine down. You can use the weight of your scape too. When scaping in sand you can sink irregular shapes in the sand to hold them steady. With a bare bottom tank you can get a rocky scape if you don't plan your foundation. I personally used a grinder to create flat bottoms on my base rocks. It's probably best to use bigger pieces and avoid complex stacking structures unless you engineer your scape with much consideration.
Setting up a bare bottom tank can have its challenges, but with some consideration can be set up in a fashion that provides a better way to export detritus and help keep a low nutrient system. Cheers and happy reefing
 
Joe,

You can always visit our store since our main SPS display tank has been running bare bottom for the past three years.

Frank
 

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