What Do You Use In Your Sump?

James Macaluso

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Hello all,
This is my first post here so I would like to say that I'm very happy to be part of this community!
I have recently set up my 2nd saltwater reef aquarium after taking down my first that I had running for a year and a half. I wanted something bigger and with better flow and filtration so I purchased what I could best afford.

Here are the specs:
20g Standard glass
Sump: Pro Clear Aquatics Wet Dry (looks to be about 10 gallons)
Overflow: 800GPH CPR Aquatics (really like the self starting feature)
Return: 675gph pump

My tank has been cycled for less than 1 month so I am aware that it is still unstable in regards to nitrate reducing bacteria, but I wanted to know your favorite methods to maintain a steady nitrate level of 0 other than wc's. To boost my cycle I used old, dirty media from my old system and put it inside the wet-dry system.

I know that filter socks and sponges are practically nitrate factories when they are dirty, and therefore I was wondering when I could toss them out of my system and not cut a massive proportion of bacteria and damage the cycle. Currently the only "media" I am using are filter socks, bioballs and Caribsea Life Rock ~20lbs

What is the ideal media setup for a sump of my size and rather cost effective?

Water Chems
PH: 7.8 (want to fix)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 15 (want this to be less than 10ppm)
Phosphate: 0
(Tested on API liquid)

IMG_3690.JPG
 
Hello all,
This is my first post here so I would like to say that I'm very happy to be part of this community!
I have recently set up my 2nd saltwater reef aquarium after taking down my first that I had running for a year and a half. I wanted something bigger and with better flow and filtration so I purchased what I could best afford.

Here are the specs:
20g Standard glass
Sump: Pro Clear Aquatics Wet Dry (looks to be about 10 gallons)
Overflow: 800GPH CPR Aquatics (really like the self starting feature)
Return: 675gph pump

My tank has been cycled for less than 1 month so I am aware that it is still unstable in regards to nitrate reducing bacteria, but I wanted to know your favorite methods to maintain a steady nitrate level of 0 other than wc's. To boost my cycle I used old, dirty media from my old system and put it inside the wet-dry system.

I know that filter socks and sponges are practically nitrate factories when they are dirty, and therefore I was wondering when I could toss them out of my system and not cut a massive proportion of bacteria and damage the cycle. Currently the only "media" I am using are filter socks, bioballs and Caribsea Life Rock ~20lbs

What is the ideal media setup for a sump of my size and rather cost effective?

Water Chems
PH: 7.8 (want to fix)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 15 (want this to be less than 10ppm)
Phosphate: 0
(Tested on API liquid)

IMG_3690.JPG
In my sump I run a single mesh filter sock changed every 3 days or so, a lifereef protein skimmer rated up to a 250 gallon aquarium ( I have a 50 cube) , BRS carbon /gfo reactor , UV Sterilizer , and a bag of seachem matrix. I will be putter a co2 reactor onto my skimmer hopefully I’m the next few weeks to help battle ph issues

I would suggest to get some marine pure block and run it submerged in your sump for a few weeks b4 you pull out your filter sock. I know a wet dry is older school thinking I’m pretty sure the bio balls in the wet dry act as a media for bacteria to grow on. So theoretically you can take that old media off now esp since you have no livestock in the tank.
 
In my sump I run a single mesh filter sock changed every 3 days or so, a lifereef protein skimmer rated up to a 250 gallon aquarium ( I have a 50 cube) , BRS carbon /gfo reactor , UV Sterilizer , and a bag of seachem matrix. I will be putter a co2 reactor onto my skimmer hopefully I’m the next few weeks to help battle ph issues

I would suggest to get some marine pure block and run it submerged in your sump for a few weeks b4 you pull out your filter sock. I know a wet dry is older school thinking I’m pretty sure the bio balls in the wet dry act as a media for bacteria to grow on. So theoretically you can take that old media off now esp since you have no livestock in the tank.

Thanks for the info!
However the tank is stocked: 1 checkered puffer 3" (He's still every small Ive had him for 1 yr) and a False Perc clown thats a little smaller. Puffer has been in for two weeks and the clown for 1. The media is from my old HOB setup which was pretty gross. I"ll pick up some Marine Pure. Do you think a 20G requires a GFO reactor? I have Seachem Denitriate which is very similar to matrix.

Since I have fish, I was wondering when the bio balls and rock will hold enough bacteria to safely replace the filtration media bags. Caribsea Life Rock is dry rock so I dont know if it holds enough bacteria.
 
I'd think if your going have just fish the wetdry with bioballs would work very well for you. It's old technology but still good for Fish only systems.
 
I plan to have some LPS and soft coral in my tank.
Nothing too sensitive or valuable because I'm on a budget. And my puffer although has been with many types of coral is pretty curious and I wouldn't want him to take a bite out of a designer frag :)

If my nitrates can stay under 10ppm and phosphates undetected I'll be happy
 
Lets see some pictures! These guys will get you dialed in. +1 on the Marine pure & ditch the bio-balls would be my call. Best of luck!
 
I'll send some pictures in soon :)
I like to keep the sump simple and not make it a detritus trap. I'll start removing the old filter pads over the course of a few days and monitor ammonia and make sure I don't spike it.
And buy some marine pure.
I will keep you all posted on the performance of the tank!
 
All I use my sump for is a hidden spot for equipment. I personally do not run any media in my sump. Occasionally I’ll run some chemipure elite but very rarely.
 
No More Filters (TM) in my sump !!! Keep It Dirty (R).

Less to clean is a good thing.
Four sections - input, then live rocks + skimmer, then magic mud + chaeto, then return with UV with extra recirculation pump back to section 1.
(extra live rocks scattered everywhere they fit - I have too many for my current DT)

How I deal with nasties? I buy a box of salt every 3rd month and do large bi-monthly WCs. It's just as easy to mix up 45g of SW than to do 20g of SW.
My DT is 55g and the sump 35g.

I have yet to buy the awesome magnetic scraper that has a metal edge for all that algae I have on the glass. I'd have more $$$ if I didn't have to buy so much salt mix.
 
No More Filters (TM) in my sump !!! Keep It Dirty (R).

Less to clean is a good thing.
Four sections - input, then live rocks + skimmer, then magic mud + chaeto, then return with UV with extra recirculation pump back to section 1.
(extra live rocks scattered everywhere they fit - I have too many for my current DT)

How I deal with nasties? I buy a box of salt every 3rd month and do large bi-monthly WCs. It's just as easy to mix up 45g of SW than to do 20g of SW.
My DT is 55g and the sump 35g.

I have yet to buy the awesome magnetic scraper that has a metal edge for all that algae I have on the glass. I'd have more $$$ if I didn't have to buy so much salt mix.
Yeah I do a bi monthly sump WC and equipment cleaning. Stir up all the crap after it’s scraped clean and get in there with the wet dry vacuum.
 
I plan to have some LPS and soft coral in my tank.
Nothing too sensitive or valuable because I'm on a budget. And my puffer although has been with many types of coral is pretty curious and I wouldn't want him to take a bite out of a designer frag :)

If my nitrates can stay under 10ppm and phosphates undetected I'll be happy
My tank is almost entirely lps with a few more easy sps. My phosphate runs .15 and nitrate is around 7ppm. I always have some sort of algae present. I just ordered a clear water algae scrubber to give that a shot and hopefully I can eventually take my gfo off line. But here are the results I’ve had thus far. My tank is about a year old

851FD296-1918-44BC-84E7-A15BEB7678EC.jpeg


04F59E4D-C4A3-436E-B5E6-2CF1583049E3.jpeg


4834520C-2DD9-47BD-A912-A26054580F55.jpeg


E6535BDA-44E1-4E98-B7F0-618EFC858498.jpeg
 

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