What exactly is Purigen and how does it work?

I'm still waiting on a reply from seachem. I asked them for specs on what purigen does and doesn't remove.

This is what I could find on it. Probably the same stuff you did.


Description

Purigen[emoji768] is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all other competing products by over 500%. Purigen[emoji768] controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen’s impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly raises redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity. Purigen[emoji768] darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach. Purigen[emoji768] is designed for both marine and freshwater use.

Selectivity: Purigen[emoji768] is the highest capacity organic filtration resin on the market. No other products can compare to its ability to clear haziness and polish water to unparalleled clarity. Unlike other products on the market which are simple ion-exchange resins, Purigen[emoji768] is specifically designed to be an organic scavenging resin. When ion-exchange resins are filled to capacity by metals and other contaminants, Purigen[emoji768] has barely begun to reach its potential. Purigen[emoji768] generally ignores simple elemental compounds, having an extreme affinity for nitrogenous organics. The primary source of nitrogenous compounds in an aquarium is waste. Fish, corals, even plants produce nitrogenous waste. Purigen[emoji768] removes that waste faster and more completely than anything else on the market.

Capacity: Purigen’s[emoji769] possesses enhanced capacity owing to its vast surface area. All other resins on the market are purely spherical extruded beads. These beads remain smooth even under a microscope. Purigen[emoji768] is both spherical and macroreticular. It has microscopic pores that increase its usable surface area to many times that of a purely spherical resin.

Regeneration: Purigen[emoji768] can also be regenerated. As it adsorbs waste products, Purigen[emoji768] will change color from a pale blonde to a dark brown, almost black. Once it is exhausted, it can be regenerated with a solution of bleach and water. The bleach will literally “burn off” the organics that have been removed from the tank. Watch out for products that claim to be regenerable with a brine solution. That is the regeneration procedure for ion-exchange purposes. A brine solution will not remove organics. While such resins have a limited capacity for organic adsorption, a brine regeneration process only replaces removed ionic compounds. It does not destroy large organic molecules that were removed, which is the primary function of organic adsorption resins.

Directions

Rinse before use. Use in a fine mesh (180 micron or less) filter bag such as Seachem’s The Bag[emoji769]. Each 250 mL treats up to 1,000 L (250 US gallons) for up to six months. Exhaustion is indicated by a pronounced discoloration of the beads to dark brown or black.

REGENERATION: Soak in a 1:1 bleach:water solution for 24 hours in a non-metallic container in a well ventilated area and away from children. Use regular 8.25% hypochlorite household bleach (non-scented, no dyes, do not use a splash-less bleach). Rinse well, then soak for 8 hours with a solution containing 4 tablespoons of Prime[emoji768], or equivalent dechlorinator per cup of water. Rinse well. For freshwater use, soak for 4 hours with a solution containing 2 tablespoons of buffer per cup of water (Discus Buffer[emoji768], Neutral Regulator[emoji768]). Original color and full activity should now be restored and Purigen[emoji768] is ready for reuse. Caution: some slime coat products may permanently foul Purigen[emoji768] and render regeneration difficult. Do not reuse if odor of bleach/chlorine is detectable. In case of doubt, soak beads in small quantity of water and test for residual chlorine with a chlorine test kit.
 
Most of the standard nitrate methods are more effective:

Organic carbon dosing (vodka, vinegar, biopellets)
Sulfur denitrator
Carbon denitrator
Growing macroalgae
Algal turf scrubber
denitrifying media
deep sand beds
skimming
etc.

I cover them here:

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium - REEFEDITION
https://www.reef2reef.com/blog/nitrate-in-the-reef-aquarium
I have tried Tropic Marin liquid carbon dosing and it controlled phosphates as expected but did not seem to affect nitrate levels. Do you have other recommendations for carbon dosing products that will also keep nitrates at bay?
 
I have tried Tropic Marin liquid carbon dosing and it controlled phosphates as expected but did not seem to affect nitrate levels. Do you have other recommendations for carbon dosing products that will also keep nitrates at bay?
You were probably phosphate limited and had to dose phosphate in order for nitrate to drop.
 
You were probably phosphate limited and had to dose phosphate in order for nitrate to drop.
Interesting theory. My phosphates were around .08ppm (Hanna) so I was well within the range of TMs suggestion of using the bacto balance. Maybe they were going down just not as quickly as I expected? It sounds like the bacto balance should control nitrates though.
 
Interesting theory. My phosphates were around .08ppm (Hanna) so I was well within the range of TMs suggestion of using the bacto balance. Maybe they were going down just not as quickly as I expected? It sounds like the bacto balance should control nitrates though.

If 0.08 ppm phosphate is accurate, it is not limiting nitrate consumption while organic carbon dosing.
 
If 0.08 ppm phosphate is accurate, it is not limiting nitrate consumption while organic carbon dosing.
Ok so it sounds like we expect the bacto balance to control nitrates. My tank is pretty new and unestablished still so I will wait until I get some corals in there and everything settles a bit more!

I technically used the Hanna ULR checker to get phosphorous ppb and then converted to phosphate ppm.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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