What filtration should I be using during cycling?

[Zoe’s Reef]

Hi all! I recently purchased a new Coralife BioCube 32g and will be starting it up in the next week or so! I've already planned out that I will be running this filtration for the system in the InTank Media Basket (listed from top to bottom):

- Filter Floss
- Purigen
- ChemiPure Elite
- Matrix
...And then eventually I'll be adding the InTank Fuge Basket for chaeto.

So, my question is: Should I have all of this filtration running during cycling? Or will certain things like the purigen and chemipure elite not be good to cycle with? If this is the case, do I just wait until after everything is cycled to add them back in?

Also, at what point in my tank's life do you recommend adding the refugium? Thank you!

 

[Flippers4pups]

The filter floss and matrix can go in at start. Wait till you have some bio load for the rest.

 

[Skynyrd Fish]

I would run floss only. Let the tank do its thing. Then once cycled you can add carbon or whatever you want. I also like chemipure and use it some times on my 20 year old sps tank. Good luck.

 

[Zoe’s Reef]

The filter floss and matrix can go in at start. Wait till you have some bio load for the rest.

Awesome, thanks! Do you think CUC counts as bioload? Or are we talking a more heavy load like fish?

 

[Zoe’s Reef]

I would run floss only. Let the tank do its thing. Then once cycled you can add carbon or whatever you want. I also like chemipure and use it some times on my 20 year old sps tank. Good luck.

Sounds great, thank you for your help!

 

[lion king]

I assume the matrix is the media, not the carbon; so that goes in with the cycle for added surface to colonize bacteria.

You can add the macro right after the cycle, it will immediately start to consume the nitrate and phosphates left behind by the cycle. Keep your lights off or on low until needed and I have skipped the ugly stage all together. If you start to get brown diatoms, add some cerith snails.

 

[MnFish1]

Im curious to those who say don't use 'all of the stuff'. - First - I would for sure add the matrix - as thats doing to be in the tank 'long-term' - I assume the filter floss is replaced periodically (thereby removing biofilter). Additionally the chemipure will provide more surface area for bacteria - and I dont see a 'disadvantage'. Long-term - my guess is that any rock, etc will provide the bacteria much more surface area than the filter itself - In any case - Not really disagreeing - just curious - why not just add the filtration that you're planning to use long-term?

 

[Zoe’s Reef]

I assume the matrix is the media, not the carbon; so that goes in with the cycle for added surface to colonize bacteria.

You can add the macro right after the cycle, it will immediately start to consume the nitrate and phosphates left behind by the cycle. Keep your lights off or on low until needed and I have skipped the ugly stage all together. If you start to get brown diatoms, add some cerith snails.

Yep, the seachem matrix will be my bio media. For the "carbon" I'll be using the combo of purigen and chemipure.

Thanks for the tips! Is it okay to leave the lights off for the entire cycle? I'm worried about just pushing the ugly stage back to when I do actually turn on the lights.

 

[Skynyrd Fish]

The BRS/WWC Hybrid 4-month SPS tank cycle - The BRS/WWC System Ep12 - BRStv

Today Ryan explains how we plan to cycle our BRS/WWC Hybrid System tanks and, as much as it hurts to wait, why a 4-month cycle is probably the most stable and simple way to create a stunning SPS dominant tank! #BRSWWC #reefingmethods Need a tank cycle starter kit? This week you can WIN one...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

This has good info in it. I think to answer your above question is the rock will grow bacteria And coralline instead of algae.

 

[Zoe’s Reef]

The BRS/WWC Hybrid 4-month SPS tank cycle - The BRS/WWC System Ep12 - BRStv

Today Ryan explains how we plan to cycle our BRS/WWC Hybrid System tanks and, as much as it hurts to wait, why a 4-month cycle is probably the most stable and simple way to create a stunning SPS dominant tank! #BRSWWC #reefingmethods Need a tank cycle starter kit? This week you can WIN one...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

This has good info in it. I think to answer your above question is the rock will grow bacteria And coralline instead of algae.

Ohh, awesome, I get it now. I'll check out that link too, thank you!

 

[lion king]

Yep, the seachem matrix will be my bio media. For the "carbon" I'll be using the combo of purigen and chemipure.

Thanks for the tips! Is it okay to leave the lights off for the entire cycle? I'm worried about just pushing the ugly stage back to when I do actually turn on the lights.

Lights are not necessary until you have livestock(corals) that need them, or for your viewing pleasure. The ugly stage is spurred by the nitrates and phosphates produced by the cycle. If you are using ammonium chloride to cycle that gives you the end stage of nitrates and if you are using live rock that will give you some phosphate. Using food will give you both. Adding light with the nitrates and phaosphates is what gives you the uglies. I accidentally found that running a macro reactor right after a cycle, I skipped the uglies all together. The macro consumed all the excess nitrates and phosphates.

You can also achieve this with a series of water changes and keeping the light level low. You would be surprised at the level of nitrates and phosphates people start their tanks off at the end of the cycle. Even a 50% water change at the end of the cycle still leaves these levels sky high.

 

[Reef.]

Leave the light off as long as you can, you only need it on when there are corals in the tank.

I would cycle then add the other media, add the floss if you want and matrix but the floss won’t be catching much so not important, the rest can wait, as soon as the tank is cycled then add the purigen etc

 

[Zoe’s Reef]

Lights are not necessary until you have livestock(corals) that need them, or for your viewing pleasure. The ugly stage is spurred by the nitrates and phosphates produced by the cycle. If you are using ammonium chloride to cycle that gives you the end stage of nitrates and if you are using live rock that will give you some phosphate. Using food will give you both. Adding light with the nitrates and phaosphates is what gives you the uglies. I accidentally found that running a macro reactor right after a cycle, I skipped the uglies all together. The macro consumed all the excess nitrates and phosphates.

You can also achieve this with a series of water changes and keeping the light level low. You would be surprised at the level of nitrates and phosphates people start their tanks off at the end of the cycle. Even a 50% water change at the end of the cycle still leaves these levels sky high.

Thank you for all of this information! Super helpful. From your previous comment, I'm going to plan on adding the refugium with chaeto as soon as my tank is done cycling to hopefully help with excess nitrates and phosphates.

Your reply actually made me think of another question. Is it appropriate to starting doing water changes when my ammonia and nitrites are 0 but my nitrate is starting to rise? Maybe I'll start with like 5% weekly water changes at that point then slowly increase to 20%?

 

[Zoe’s Reef]

Leave the light off as long as you can, you only need it on when there are corals in the tank.

I would cycle then add the other media, add the floss if you want and matrix but the floss won’t be catching much so not important, the rest can wait, as soon as the tank is cycled then add the purigen etc

Thank you!

 

[lion king]

Thank you for all of this information! Super helpful. From your previous comment, I'm going to plan on adding the refugium with chaeto as soon as my tank is done cycling to hopefully help with excess nitrates and phosphates.

Your reply actually made me think of another question. Is it appropriate to starting doing water changes when my ammonia and nitrites are 0 but my nitrate is starting to rise? Maybe I'll start with like 5% weekly water changes at that point then slowly increase to 20%?

When your ammonia and nitrite are zero your nitrates will not rise anymore unless you are feeding the tank. Nitrate does not rise on it's own. Once my cycle is complete I do a huge water change to lower my nitrates, you can do 50% water change if you don't have livestock. If you have livestock you will want to do smaller water changes to maintain stability.