What happened to my fishless cycle? Help.

[John A!10]

So my tank cycle completed about 7 days ago. It was going for 30 days. No bacteria in a bottle. I dosed ammonia, and waited for it to go down. Nitrites spikes they went down and a week ago nitrates went to twenty. I didn’t have time to get a fish or anything, and I let the tank till today. I was planning on going today to get a fish. I’m mixing my water and decide to test my water with API tests to make sure it’s fine. The test came out with 10ppm nitrates and around .1ammonia. Did the bacteria die and produce ammonia? What happened. I tested some sink water to compare and the api test came out with 0ppm ammonia. Should I take the water to the store to test it?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

The ammonia is the concern, if it is accurate. It may not be.

What is nitrite? With some kits, it will only take 0.1 ppm nitrite to read falsely as 10 ppm nitrate.

A store test for ammonia seems reasonable.

 

[John A!10]

Nitrite spikes and then went down to zero. Everything in the cycle went as normal. I’ve cycled tanks before. But why do I have ammonia now. I’d dint dose or ghost feed. Nothing live in the tank. Could the bacteria have died. I will most likely test the water at the store. But after the water change wouldn’t the ammonia drop?

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Another question would be what type of rock did you use, dry, live, cured live? I also agree that a verifying test from a trusted LFS would be helpful.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Nitrite spikes and then went down to zero. Everything in the cycle went as normal. I’ve cycled tanks before. But why do I have ammonia now. I’d dint dose or ghost feed. Nothing live in the tank. Could the bacteria have died. I will most likely test the water at the store. But after the water change wouldn’t the ammonia drop?

API has been known to give false positives on ammonia.

 

[John A!10]

Another question would be what type of rock did you use, dry, live, cured live? I also agree that a verifying test from a trusted LFS would be helpful.

Dry rock.

 

[John A!10]

API has been known to give false positives on ammonia.

So should I take some water before the water change and after to the lfs to test it. If ammonia was zero before the water change, I could get a fish?

 

[Indytraveler83]

API has been known to give false positives on ammonia.

+1 on this. Get an ammonia alert badge. They are fairly cheap and can be re-used for your QT tank when you set it up. I've NEVER gotten a 0 reading on API ammonia tests.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Nitrite spikes and then went down to zero. Everything in the cycle went as normal. I’ve cycled tanks before. But why do I have ammonia now. I’d dint dose or ghost feed. Nothing live in the tank. Could the bacteria have died. I will most likely test the water at the store. But after the water change wouldn’t the ammonia drop?

I meant right now, is nitrite still much less than 0.1? I'm just cautioning the nitrate may not be real.

The main concern is the ammonia, however. Many folks do at least two ammonia spikes and follow it to zero to cycle. Unless you change 100%, you may not see the drop in ammonia from a water change. new salt water even often has 0.1 ppm ammonia in it initially.

 

[John A!10]

The tanks was setup around two months ago and 3 months prior to that I bleached some rocks. I washed them off and put a bottle of dechlorimator. I let them dry for 3 months. And had no smell of bleach. Could some bleach still be on there. I doubt it.

 

[John A!10]

Can anybody give some steps on what to do:
I’m guessing get the water tested at the lfs, and if it was 0ammonia get a fish. If it’s higher what should I do.

 

[IslandLifeReef]

Can anybody give some steps on what to do:
I’m guessing get the water tested at the lfs, and if it was 0ammonia get a fish. If it’s higher what should I do.

For right now, just get a verifying test. If the LFS is using Salifert or RedSea, I bet ammonia shows zero. Once we know what your tank readings are, including nitrite, we can give you better advice.

If water is good at the store, then yes, a hardy easy fish would be fine

 

[EMeyer]

So my tank cycle completed about 7 days ago. It was going for 30 days. No bacteria in a bottle. I dosed ammonia, and waited for it to go down. Nitrites spikes they went down and a week ago nitrates went to twenty. I didn’t have time to get a fish or anything, and I let the tank till today. I was planning on going today to get a fish. I’m mixing my water and decide to test my water with API tests to make sure it’s fine. The test came out with 10ppm nitrates and around .1ammonia. Did the bacteria die and produce ammonia? What happened. I tested some sink water to compare and the api test came out with 0ppm ammonia. Should I take the water to the store to test it?

Ammonia tests are sensitive to sodium levels, I believe. You might try a blank prepared with sodium chloride at seawater levels. Ime using a blank like this clarifies the true color of zero for your test better than relying on the pre printed color card.

 

[John A!10]

Ammonia tests are sensitive to sodium levels, I believe. You might try a blank prepared with sodium chloride at seawater levels. Ime using a blank like this clarifies the true color of zero for your test better than relying on the pre printed color card.

Maybe when I mix my water for the water change. To lazy to do it now, as I’ll be going to lfs anyways.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Can anybody give some steps on what to do:
I’m guessing get the water tested at the lfs, and if it was 0ammonia get a fish. If it’s higher what should I do.

I already mentioned what I would do: give another ammonia shot and watch it decline before getting a fish.

 

[John A!10]

Ammonia tests are sensitive to sodium levels, I believe. You might try a blank prepared with sodium chloride at seawater levels. Ime using a blank like this clarifies the true color of zero for your test better than relying on the pre printed color card.

So I did what you said, and the ammonia came out 0ppm. Doesn’t that mean my tank has ammonia. What should I do?

 

[John A!10]

I already mentioned what I would do: give another ammonia shot and watch it decline before getting a fish.

Wouldn’t that mean another month of waiting?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Wouldn’t that mean another month of waiting?

If it takes a month, the tank is not ready for fish. Should be a few days only, max, if it is cycled.

 

[John A!10]

False alarm. I think. I tested again and it came out 0ppm. The one two the right is the tank water, to the left is control. The tank water even look a bit closer to 0 than the control.

 

[Wtyson254]

You could also buy some bacteria in a bottle and add it just in case ....