What I need to do for dinos?

James5214

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So I thought I was having a diatom algae bloom. Well today I noticed brown stringy stuff on my xenia. And after closer examination I saw it on some of my zoas and makes since as to why they have been closed. The tank is about 4 and half months old. What do I need to do to beat this? I just recently got a beautiful branching hammer and a. Duncan and a sunny D zoa I do not what to lose them to dino. Any tips or advice greatly appreciated. It's a 20long. With 1 ai prime 16hd. I dose red sea AB+ every other day. I run lights for a total of 12 hours.
 
So I thought I was having a diatom algae bloom. Well today I noticed brown stringy stuff on my xenia. And after closer examination I saw it on some of my zoas and makes since as to why they have been closed. The tank is about 4 and half months old. What do I need to do to beat this? I just recently got a beautiful branching hammer and a. Duncan and a sunny D zoa I do not what to lose them to dino. Any tips or advice greatly appreciated. It's a 20long. With 1 ai prime 16hd. I dose red sea AB+ every other day. I run lights for a total of 12 hours.
What is your no3 and po4?
 
As sixty said, I'd watch phosphate closely. I'd also double check that it's not spirulina or cyano.
 
There are some good threads on here about what to do for this. You will find what you need with a search, but move the temperature towards 83 deg now and stop feeding the ab+. Dinos eat that. Dino's are frustrating, but they can be beaten!
 
It depends on what kind of dino you have.

Regardless of type, you want to
- Increase nitrate above 10 and phosphate above 0.1.
- dose something to compete with it such as microbacter7, a new piece of mature live rock, etc.
- turn off white lights for a few days or even consider a 3 day blackout.
- run carbon heavily in case it's a toxic type.

The rest of the things you need to do are dependent on species and you need to look at it under a microscope to know for sure. Some need a large UV, some need silicate dosing, etc.
 
My ammonia is 0ppm my nitrates is around 10-15ppm I feed heavily to my fat fish I'm to blame for that. And nitrites are 0ppm
 
Nothing can beat a rip clean for curing dinos in a nano reef, not any other method by ten miles. rip clean=we take apart your reef, clean it the right way vs the kid gloves way we're trained by dinos invaded peers to clean :) and reassemble your tank fixed, without dinos taking over, using no bottle bac or additives only power cleaning.
 
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two examples of wins, read from page 12 onward and you'll never have an invaded reef again, unless you want to be invaded.


number of times we did identification of organisms=zero

number of times we measured a param off a non digital test kit, deluded ourselves that the reading was right, made a gameplan off non digital readings which only disagree on other non digital kits: zero


number of times we let the tank overcome human will above=zero

and in that follow up above, we're still not discussing params or ID. see how they are doing maintenance cleaning, like we mow our lawns weekly in work maintenance / that's key. we do opposite of what the masses say to do, and we end the monthslong GHA tradeoff invasion wrecks.

doing what the masses recommends really just earns a 450 page thread with about 5 dinos cures, and 99% wrecked GHA tanks? that's what the big dinos thread looks like in the nuisance algae forum, all GHA wrecks from former dinos wrecks to the tune of 99% of the whole thread. facts...see above for the true win, in a nano. large tankers can't do this trick very easily above.

that's neither a gha challenge now, or an ongoing dinos challenge, those two above are simple wins. your tank can be dino fixed in about 6 hours from right now depending on your level of resolve in the matter. roadmap is right above.

post a pic of your tank, we'll make a custom plan right here live time and by tomorrow you are fixed. that fast. it's on file above and in 1000 other threads. even if you don't have dinos and it's cyano or spirulina, we don't mind. we could not care less what the invader species is.

the most valuable part of a rip clean is the after pic; you realize that owning an uninvaded nano reef is all psychology / resolve/ and 0% chemistry or biology or hesitation or hoping or good vs bad luck. we're actually able to command a win, if we select that option.
 
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You will find thousands of replies and advice on the internet and forum.

The 1 thing I tried out of all methods that beat Dino’s was :

1: plumb UV straight in and out of tank
2: turkey baste dinos so they get in the water column


in 2 weeks they will be history
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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